What recoil spring is in your 1911a1

[Rusher]

Hey guys

This has probably been done to death but what recoil spring is currently in your 1911a1.

I went with a higher weight spring because I heard that it helped stop frame battering but the higher weight spring caused alot more muzzle flip than I liked.

So back to the original recoil spring with a wilson shock-buff insert and it feels so much better

What were your experiences with one spring versus another???


Just FYI I was using regular ol'FMJ's 230gr no hot loads or light weight HP's


Rusher

 

[WT]

16# like JMB designed it. No shock buffers. Works just fine.

 

[HighVelocity]

18# with shock buff.

 

[Chuck R.]

Colt Gold Cup 16#
Les Baer 18# Variable with a shock buff

Chuck

 

[HSMITH]

A higher weight spring does help limit frame battering on the way back, but it beats the barrel locking lugs (top and bottom) and the slide stop pin when the slide closes. There is no free lunch when changing spring weights.

I run 12-16 pound springs in Government models, some with buffers and some without. For normal power ball or JHP ammo I like 12-14 pound recoil springs with a 20-23 pound mainspring and a short radius firing pin stop. 16 pound springs are used in guns with large radius firing pin stops.

I run 16-18 pound springs in Commander length guns, no buffers in the short guns.

Dropping spring weight lowers felt recoil, lessens muzzle flip and just feels better. Care must be taken to not batter the gun, but that is easily addressed.

Heavy springs make the gun feel sluggish, and increases muzzle flip.

 

[Vern Humphrey]

A higher weight spring does help limit frame battering on the way back, but it beats the barrel locking lugs (top and bottom) and the slide stop pin when the slide closes. There is no free lunch when changing spring weights.

I run 12-16 pound springs in Government models, some with buffers and some without. For normal power ball or JHP ammo I like 12-14 pound recoil springs with a 20-23 pound mainspring and a short radius firing pin stop. 16 pound springs are used in guns with large radius firing pin stops.

I run 16-18 pound springs in Commander length guns, no buffers in the short guns.

Dropping spring weight lowers felt recoil, lessens muzzle flip and just feels better. Care must be taken to not batter the gun, but that is easily addressed.

Heavy springs make the gun feel sluggish, and increases muzzle flip.

I installed a 28-lb recoil spring so I could shoot .45 super loads -- and broke the "legs" off my MIM barrel bushing. I hand-fitted a new stainless steel bushing and went back to an 18lb spring, and abandoned the .45 Super project.

My carry gun is a Kimber, and Kimber advises not using buffers -- I have tried them on both my Kimber and my M1927 Argentine, and they do adversely affect reliability on both guns.

 

[Longbow]

16# ISMI.

 

[Longbow]

A higher weight spring does help limit frame battering on the way back, but it beats the barrel locking lugs (top and bottom) and the slide stop pin when the slide closes. There is no free lunch when changing spring weights.

But with the rounds cushioning the slide forward travel, as it feeds, there's shouldn't be a problem.

 

[Nightdiver]

18# with Wilson buffer in my Colt/Wilson custom. No other way to go for me.

 

[HSMITH]

Longbow, I have not seen the round chambering slow anything down enough to help in a properly fitted gun, at least not in my experience has it been a factor.

 

[SACOLT]

16 pounders from Wolff.

 

[dmftoy1]

16 1/2 pound wolf variable rate. Seems to work just as well with hardball as with 200 LSWC.

 

[Snowdog]

I installed a Wolff 16 pound spring in both my Kimber and RIA. I was thinking of a heavier spring for the RIA, but was talked out of it. I traded most of the 200gr Hornady fodder on hand to a buddy for Lee dies in 9mm and .40S&W so I'll have 'em when I get around to loading those calibers.

I don't plan on pushing any slug much faster than this design was originally intended to shoot. For what the 1911 was designed to do, I figure a 230gr .45 caliber slug doesn't need much extra ummph anyway.

 

[1911Tuner]

Springy Stuff

A reminder:

Springs work in both directions. Whenever you change a spring to a higher load or higher rate, you change several things along with it...and usually wind up creating other problems while trying to solve one.

 

[Technosavant]

18.5# Wolff. Might try ISMI when this one wears out.

When SA tweaked it, the frame/slide fit was so tight, after a few magazines it wouldn't go fully back into battery; it would stop about 1/8" shy. Going to the 18.5# spring made it 100% reliable- no failures yet.

 

[RugerOldArmy]

18.5# in all for most uses. 16# for target loads.

 

[wally]

I'm a big believer in "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". But I usually end up with 17 to 18.5 lb springs in the 5" 1911s I shoot a lot because I don't want the brass to fly so far. I generally stay with the factory spring until ejection distance gets to the point I lose too much brass, then I try the heavier spring which always seems to work out OK and keeps the empties closer to me. But on a carry gun, this may not be a good change to make.

The only guns I have that need regular spring replacement are the sub-compact (3-3.5") 45s. Usually the owners manual recommends replacement after 800-1500 rounds and this has matched my experiences as to when you start getting failure to return to battery in clean, previously reliable gun.

--wally.

 

[Longbow]

Longbow, I have not seen the round chambering slow anything down enough to help in a properly fitted gun, at least not in my experience has it been a factor.

It will not be slow, but it does have a cushioning effect. A properly fitted gun, with good quality parts shouldn't have problems on the locking areas even with 22# springs (like in 10mm 1911's). I'm talking durability wise, not function. In my experience, locking areas will exhibit some wear, but just to a point (that's with weak or heavy spring), but not so much that it would break. If it does, then that part (usually the barrel) is not properly fitted or it's of poor quality.


I agree, recoil spring should always be matched to your ammo characteristics for proper function. If it works, don't fix it.

 

[MCgunner]

I used to run an 18 lbs spring for normal ammo and a 22 lber for my hot stuff I carried when hunting. Those loads were +P putting up some serious energy, around 500 ft lbs. I didn't shoot it much with 'em and only carried 'em when hog hunting. Most times, I had an 18 lb spring in it. I never had a bushing fail or anything like that, but I wasn't trying to turn the thing into a .454 Casull either, maybe a little closer to a 10, but no .454.

I have found, since I've gotten away from 1911s and have all these left over Wilson springs, that a 16 lb spring fits my Ruger P90, though it's a little pre-loaded because the slide's half an inch shorter. But, the stock P90 spring is soft and the 16 lb spring works GREAT in the Ruger with normal loads and reduces battering on the frame. I've put thousands of rounds through that thing and it's still showing no internal wear. All my loads in it have been normal pressure. I carry revolvers afield anymore chambered for more appropriate loads for such. Hogs don't walk away from a 300 grain .45 colt out of a Ruger Blackhawk.

 

[varoadking]

18.5# Wolff...