I recently purchased a Kimber Stainless Target II 10mm 1911. I want to put in a heavier recoil spring than the factory 18.5lb one. Can I use 45ACP 1911 recoils springs or not? and do I have to replace the recoil spring guide rod if I use a 45ACP spring? Is there such a thing as a 10mm 1911 recoil spring? What are your recommendations for spring brand and weight for this (with fairly heavy handloads)? Thanks for any input.
10mm 1911 Recoil Springs
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flightsimmer
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Check out this thread.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=623243&highlight=flightsimmer
Also, check Wolff Gun Springs, that's where I got mine.
10mm, when you care enough to send the very best.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=623243&highlight=flightsimmer
Also, check Wolff Gun Springs, that's where I got mine.
10mm, when you care enough to send the very best.
HisSoldier
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I was thinking about Tuner's comments when I saw the title.
Everyone naturally assumes that a more powerful cartridge demands a stronger recoil spring. It's one of those things that seem "right" but aren't.
I replaced the firing pin stop with an oversize one and machined it to fit, and made the radius at the bottom pretty close to what JMB originally specified. I haven't added a stronger mainspring (Hammer spring) because I'm afraid it might increase my trigger pull weight. Tuner has said, I believe, that a sharper radius at the bottom of the firing pin stop is the most effective answer to recoil reduction other than going to powder puff loads. BTW, if you are shooting for pleasure that isn't a bad idea, the lower power will mean less fatigue at the end of the day and will make the gun last longer. If carried for defense though I tend to figure high recoil will be the least of my problems if attacked. But then there is the Fish case.
Everyone naturally assumes that a more powerful cartridge demands a stronger recoil spring. It's one of those things that seem "right" but aren't.
I replaced the firing pin stop with an oversize one and machined it to fit, and made the radius at the bottom pretty close to what JMB originally specified. I haven't added a stronger mainspring (Hammer spring) because I'm afraid it might increase my trigger pull weight. Tuner has said, I believe, that a sharper radius at the bottom of the firing pin stop is the most effective answer to recoil reduction other than going to powder puff loads. BTW, if you are shooting for pleasure that isn't a bad idea, the lower power will mean less fatigue at the end of the day and will make the gun last longer. If carried for defense though I tend to figure high recoil will be the least of my problems if attacked. But then there is the Fish case.
Peter M. Eick
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In my 10mm 1911's I am running 18lb ones. I have gone as high as 23 and as low as 15. 23 is too heavy. Even with very hot loads, it beats up the gun on closing. 15 is too light. You beat up the gun on recoil.
18 seems about right. Combine that with an EGW flat bottom firing pin stop and recoil comes way down. I have been debating going down to a 16 lb spring with the EGW firing pin stop installed.
My motto is the following. You can beat the gun up in recoil, or you can beat it up going into battery. Pick the spring weight for the damage you want to do to the gun.
18 seems about right. Combine that with an EGW flat bottom firing pin stop and recoil comes way down. I have been debating going down to a 16 lb spring with the EGW firing pin stop installed.
My motto is the following. You can beat the gun up in recoil, or you can beat it up going into battery. Pick the spring weight for the damage you want to do to the gun.
ugaarguy
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Mr. Eick's setup is exactly what Tuner and a few other pros recommended to me in this thread - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=620760
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