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What should I do?

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Lizard1911

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Joined
Nov 27, 2009
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102
Location
Oakland Co. MI
A long while ago, I brought a PSA lower that I put together with a PSA parts kit to my local FFL.
I was there to do a transfer for two more lowers.
I asked how much he'd charge to torque the castle nut on the 308 I brought with.
The fine gentleman that he is, took care of a couple more pressing matters, and disappeared with my build.
He came back, processed my trasfer and set my rifle down.
Only paid for the FFL fees,

Here is my dilemma:
I when I handed said rifle to him, the pivot pin could be pulled it would break open as expected.
When I received it back, the buffer tube had been turned one more time.
To separate the upper and lower, Both pins have to be pulled.

I'm really not the type of person to whine about less than perfect (free) service.
Just asking for feedback, and advice.
Do I take it back and pay to have it done correctly, or can someone here offer a bit of direction to just fix it myself
I have McGuyvere'd a thing or two in my day.
 
There are two pins: the rear pin is the "take down" pin; the forward pin is the, surprise, "pivot pin". I must be small-minded as i cannot follow any of the OP's statements to be of any assistance......did he mean the take down (rear) pin when he stated "the pivot pin could be pulled it would break open as expected" ? i.e. the upper would open from the receiver by pivoting on the pivot pin ? The buffer tube forward position is limited by the spring-loaded buffer detent, so the buffer tube cannot prevent the receiver from opening. Did the gunsmith disappear with the .308 build ? Nothing makes sense to me.
 
Some pins are hard to pop open. I have both. I have one of those hard rubber tools that starts the pins. Previously I used a punch to do same.
 
You can rotate the nut off with a hammer and punch, brass is preferred. Should pick up a wrench there cheap.

Unless the castle nut was staked. Then it will be much harder to turn one way or another.

If your castle nut has one or more stakes in it (see below), do not try doing this yourself. Unless you feel like replacing parts of the rifle. Castle nut wrenches are part of most AR multi tools. The Magpul one shared above is a good investment if you plan to tinker. Much cheaper ones can be found pretty everywhere if you are on a tighter budget.

https://www.northwestfirearms.com/attachments/diystaking-1-jpg.574106/
 
Sorry for the confusion.
Normal operation is to move the rear take down pin, and pivot the upper away from the lower.
Because the buffer tube was bottomed out, it is now catching on the bolt carrier.
I need to move BOTH pins in order to separate the two parts.

I suppose I'll take it back, next time I get to visit the range.
 
It sounds like there is interference between the buffer tube and your upper, look at the buffer tube to check then you can lightly file the tube, it will be easier off the lower. I agree about the AR tool, you can find off brand ones cheap, look at upper and lower blocks also and a set of punches.
 
So the rifle is real tight? because many folks hate it when the upper and lower are
loose. Consider that maybe this guy did you a favor. Instead of changing your rifle,
change your point of view.
 
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