My safety and slide stop plunger tube thing is loose. I can see how it is screwed on, but it seems I'm going to have to buy an allen wrench and grind it down so that I can get it in the frame to tighten the screws. Does anyone know what size allen wrench I need to get it right the first time?
What size are 1911 safety plunger tube screws?
- Thread starter zahc
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1911Tuner
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Screws
They aren't screws. The legs are hollow, and the tube is secured in place with a tool that spreads the ends. Unless you have the tool, don't try to jerry-rig it. You'll likely crush the tube. Most gunsmiths have one, and it's a 5-minute job.
If your left side grip isn't made of spongy rubber and the panel is to-spec , with a small entension at the top that curls around the side and bottom of the tube, you can effect a pretty good expedient fix until you can arrange to have it done.
Loosen the grip a little and slip a thin cardboard shim between the tube and the panel "ear" until the edge touches the frame. Tighten the panel screws, and use an exact-o knife or something similar to trim the cardboard flush with the grip panel. Done correctly, it can last for years or until you remove the grip.
They aren't screws. The legs are hollow, and the tube is secured in place with a tool that spreads the ends. Unless you have the tool, don't try to jerry-rig it. You'll likely crush the tube. Most gunsmiths have one, and it's a 5-minute job.
If your left side grip isn't made of spongy rubber and the panel is to-spec , with a small entension at the top that curls around the side and bottom of the tube, you can effect a pretty good expedient fix until you can arrange to have it done.
Loosen the grip a little and slip a thin cardboard shim between the tube and the panel "ear" until the edge touches the frame. Tighten the panel screws, and use an exact-o knife or something similar to trim the cardboard flush with the grip panel. Done correctly, it can last for years or until you remove the grip.
1911Tuner
Moderator Emeritus
Yep. The biggest problem is that most modern manufacturers either don't know how to properly stake the "stake-ons" or they just don't take the time...and I suspect the latter. Correctly done, neither one should ever come loose. I have 90 year-old Colts with tubes that are as secure as the day they left Hartford.
1911Tuner
Moderator Emeritus
Indeed. I had one come loose within a few dozen safety on/off cycles on an old 91A1...so I feel yer pain.
Whoops! I did...and the correction has been made.
I once discussed plunger tube issues with Jeff Cooper back in the early 1980's. He had become so frustrated that he recommended silver soldering the $&## things on, which I did. I have also made a point of glass bedding that little groove at the top of the left grip. So long as the grip remains tight the plunger won't move.
This problem of loose tubes is more serious then some might think. If the tube is loose enough, the plunger can slip back under the thumbpiece on the safety lock and block it in the "on" position.
I have removed tubes from newer guns that showed no sign of being staked, and on some frames the holes are not countersunk in the inside. Also seems some makers are using an adhesive rather then staking to hold the tubes on.
Recent buyers (and maybe others) would be wise if they removed the slide assembly from their pet piece(s) and took a look-see down the magazine well.
With bean-counters running things you never know... :banghead:
This problem of loose tubes is more serious then some might think. If the tube is loose enough, the plunger can slip back under the thumbpiece on the safety lock and block it in the "on" position.
I have removed tubes from newer guns that showed no sign of being staked, and on some frames the holes are not countersunk in the inside. Also seems some makers are using an adhesive rather then staking to hold the tubes on.
Recent buyers (and maybe others) would be wise if they removed the slide assembly from their pet piece(s) and took a look-see down the magazine well.
With bean-counters running things you never know... :banghead:
1911Tuner
Moderator Emeritus
That works rather well. The only caveat is to use plenty of release agent on the tube and surrounding areas, or you'll glue the grip panel to the gun good and proper.
Loose plunger tube repair
Zahc,
I picked up a parts auto (CCA frame/Colt 1911 slide) several years ago with a rather loose tube assembly. A friend suggested using a small amount of epoxy on the 2 posts after a good cleaning of everything involved. I used JB Weld and held it in place with a minute C-clamp(don't overtighten) during it's cure time. Hundreds of rounds later(some +p's) and it's still rock solid. Good luck !
Zahc,
I picked up a parts auto (CCA frame/Colt 1911 slide) several years ago with a rather loose tube assembly. A friend suggested using a small amount of epoxy on the 2 posts after a good cleaning of everything involved. I used JB Weld and held it in place with a minute C-clamp(don't overtighten) during it's cure time. Hundreds of rounds later(some +p's) and it's still rock solid. Good luck !
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