What to look for in a M1 Garand

[fishblade2]

I am looking to buy a m1 garand but I don't know exactly what I should look for before buying one. I know the basics, no cracks in the stock, matching serial numbers, and rust. Other than those are there any more additional things I could pick out really easily before making a purchase of one. Also with the serial numbers where all should I look on the gun to match them? If some of them don't match what is the worse ones not to match?

 

[Reloadron]

The only thing the serial number will tell you is the year of manufacture. There is no such thing as for example "matching serial numbers" with an M1 Garand. The individual small parts (most of them) will be stamped with drawing numbers. There is more to it but that is a basic overview. Only very serious collectors need know much more.

Next, disassemble or field strip the rifle and look for rust and or pitting below the wood lines and under for example the wood hand guards. Look for excessive wear on the parts. Short of special tools and gauges this can be tricky. For example remove the operating rod mainspring and lay it out. Look for flat spots or shiny spots where the spring is wearing uneven, especially shinny flat spots.

The problem is an M1 Garand is a pretty complex rifle with a small mountain of parts. Each part should meet certain dimensional specifications which can be hard to gauge. For example read this thread. You will see an image of a bullet guide with some dimensions. Just a simple example.

Simply put, think about buying a CMP rifle. This way you get a good rifle at a good cost rather than a pig in a poke.

Just My Take
Ron

 

[Welding Rod]

Most common problems I have seen that are easy to detect are worn rear sight serrations on the reciever, worn nub on the rear sight elevetion knob, insufficient spring force in the rear sight pinion, staking problems on the rear band / pin, and insufficient clamping force of the action to the stock when closing the trigger guard, bent op-rod, sloppy op-rod to reciever fit, and like any other rifle - poorly indexed barrels.

I second going with CMP. When you buy used there is a very good chance you are buying the sub par parts someone else culled out of their collection and assembled as a gun to sell. As long as CMP is around, I would never buy from anyone else unless I had substantial reason to trust them.

 

[Vaarok]

Check the clip latch spring on the side of the action. The button should have some resistance and no slop.

 

[Tim the student]

+1 for the CMP - no inspection needed, and probably cheaper than what you are looking at.

 

[Trebor]

I agree the CMP is the way to go. You'll get a better rifle at a better price.

I wrote some articles that might help:

How to purchase a M-1 Garand from the Civilian Marksmanship Program (CMP)

A look at the best CMP M-1 Garand choices available

And here's my tips for new Garand owners:

Tips and tricks for the M-1 Garand

M-1 Garand tips & tricks: Part 2 - Cleaning, lubrication, ammo and spare parts

M-1 Garand tips & tricks: Part 3 - Malfunctions and accuracy improvements

 

[Reloadron]

Nice reading Rob!

Ron

 

[Double Vision]

Did anyone mention the CMP already? Oh, good. That's the way to go for a Garand.

Good luck!

 

[cfullgraf]

Not to sound like a broken record, get a CMP Garand.

All the reasons already posted.

For a first Garand, get a service grade or better, particularly if you are mail ordering.

The rack or field grade rifles can be good, but they usually need a little TLC up front. Great projects once you know your way around a Garand.

 

[Fishbed77]

Not to sound like a broken record, get a CMP Garand.

I don't mind sounding like a broken record.

Get a Garand from the CMP.

I can't think of a good reason to spend your money elsewhere, unless you have somethign very spedific in mnd that you are looking for. Their excellent customer service is a big plus as well.

 

[Warp]

Yes, broken record again, but...CMP.

The service grades for $625 are a helluva gun at a great price.

 

[mshootnit]

Look at the crown to see if its nicked. Then grab the gas cylinder under the barrel and see how loose it is. Its normal to be a little loose. You could check lock up by unhooking the trigger guard at the rear but this is disassembling the rifle so you would want permission from the owner first. Feel how hard it is to relatch the trigger gaurd shut. If it goes real easy then the lugs are worn. Some rifles still shoot well even if lock up is not tight. In fact an M1 can have a lot going against it and still shoot darned good. Cycle the action back and lock the op rod in the rear position. You can check the barrel date. Normally they are rebuilt in the 50's or 60's. Anything else would be reason for further inspection. Check for an import mark which you don't want. Look real close at the sides of the receiver in the op rod channel to see if the receiver is a reweld, you may be able to tell from the "grain" of the milling machine marks. If the receiver is a reweld the milling pattern will not match up. Depress the follower with your thumber and carefully ride the op rod shut. Make sure it goes forward without a hitch. Run the rear sight up and down a little bit to make sure it works, check both sights for condition. Check the front of the clip latch to see if it matches the cutout in the receiver. If the receiver has a round cutout and the clip latch is square in the front then the clip latch is a later part substituted in which would make me wonder what else had been swapped out on the rifle. Basically I look for a real korean war rebuild rifle and not something put together in someone's basement from extra parts. After you get it shoot with good ammo and good clips to see if it holds them in until the last round is fired.

 

[Fishbed77]

Just to give you an example of a CMP rifle, here are some pics of my $625 CMP Service Grade Springfield Armory Garand that I received via mail-order in early June of this year.

It's a 1944-serialed receiver with a like-new 1954 Springfield barrel, and a new CMP black walnut stock.

 

[Neo-Luddite]

I've gone down the road of buying a cheap M-1 and having to re-gas and barrel it. Long story short, go with CMP and buy the best grade you can afford up front.

Really, if you want a weapon that will shoot well, I'd spend the money on functionality than originality. A good M-1 is worth spending the money on up front.

As others have pointed out there are many measurable/gaugable items on an M-1; buying from the CMP is the best way to go. As parts are getting expensive, you'll be far ahead by getting the best mechanical and lowest wear example you can. Money spent on an M-1 is money well spent--with little care it will outlast you by generations and doesn't need to be treated like a safe queen to hold its value.

 

[Warp]

This is the Service Grade Springfield I picked up in June.

It's a 5.8 million receiver (serial number 5.8 million something) with a new CMP stock. One of the "pumpkin orange" stocks some people don't like, but I do.







And here is the rack I selected off, myself, in the South Store

 

[cfullgraf]

This is the Service Grade Springfield I picked up in June.

I have been to the CMP South Candy Store twice. Very enjoyable time, expensive, but enjoyable.

 

[Tim the student]

Very enjoyable time, expensive, but enjoyable.

Yes, bring a credit card

Still usually cheaper than buying one elsewhere though, all things considered.

 

[mshootnit]

first : Tim your still a student?

secondly: seems odd that a 5.8 mil would need a new stock...

 

[Dixiejack]

What are the rules for buying an M1 from CMP? I went through basic and AIT with one. I really liked to shoot the M1. Only got one M1 thumb and that was more than enough.

 

[Warp]

What are the rules for buying an M1 from CMP? I went through basic and AIT with one. I really liked to shoot the M1. Only got one M1 thumb and that was more than enough.

Pretty simple requirements. They can be seen here:

http://www.odcmp.com/Sales/eligibility.htm

 

[Tinpig]

I have two mail-order Garands from CMP. Both are in excellent shape and great shooters with original barrels and GI wood. You can't beat CMP's prices and their customer service is in a league of its own. Can't imagine buying a Garand anywhere else.



1942 Springfield Armory (Field Grade; MW 3) and 1952 Springfield Armory (Service Grade; MW 2)

 

[Tim the student]

Tim your still a student?

I plan to be a student until I die. Maybe not in the most used definition, but constantly learning at least.

Anyway, yeah, grad student these days.

Dixie, the requirements are not as bad as they may appear to be at first glance. I bet you meet many of the criteria already.

 

[cfullgraf]

secondly: seems odd that a 5.8 mil would need a new stock...

Many, or all, of the current rifles in inventory are returns from Greece. Some rifles not used at all, some rode hard and put up wet.

So, a new stock on a late production rifle is a possibility as the stocks could be in very rough shape.

Also, several years ago, at that time, CMP said the rifles that became Service Grade Specials were returned without stocks. Since the metal was in excellent shape, CMP put on a new stock and created a new category of rifle for sale.

Maybe these plain jane service grades were also returned without stocks as well. But it is hard to know what CMP does behind closed doors.

CMP watching is part of the thrill!

 

[cfullgraf]

Yes, bring a credit card

Still usually cheaper than buying one elsewhere though, all things considered.

One trouble with the CMP stores, the rifles are like Lays Potato chips. I can never leave with just one.

 

[fishblade2]

I saw that I have to show proof of marksmanship to receive the gun from them. Is this to receive the gun at my house or can I still order one from them and send it to my local gun dealer without having to prove marksmanship? Also do I have to be a member of the group to even order one from them period?