What to use on nickel

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I added this question when I posted the pics of my nickel plated Rock Island on the autoloader forum but thought I would get more exposure in the general section, what are some specific products that I can clean it with that won't hurt the nickel finish?
 
When I recently asked this question, I was advised that Flitz is a mildly abrasive polish that should be used sparingly and not every cleaning. I have been told that you can use Hoppes #9 on electroless nickel but not electroplated nickel.

I wound up using Simple Green and a bronze brush on my factory S&W revolvers, and that worked well enough for my needs.
 
I have a Browning BDA .380 Nickle,I am using mothers aluminum wheel polish,works for me.
 

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I have used Flitz on plated guns, as well as blued guns. I believe Flitz states their polish is non-abrasive and after all these years of using it, I'm inclined to believe them. I was especially amazed when I used it on a rifle that I had reblued a while back. I had requested a standard medium polish with a rust blue application. What I got back was a totally flat black finish that looked like something you would find on wrought iron. Since I had already figured that I was going to have the gun reblued again, I thought I would try an experiment by using Flitz on the bluing. With just one light application, the Flitz actually polished the bluing (without removing any of the finish), and turned out exactly as I had originally planned it to be. That finish is still looking good 12 years later.
 
The first time I ever saw anything about not using Hoppes (or any copper removing solvent), on nickel or chrome plated guns was in Guns and Ammo magazine some 30 or more years ago. Jeff Cooper used to have a regular section in the magazine where he answered questions about handguns from various readers. One particular letter sent in by a gentleman living somewhere in South America, dealt with this specific issue. Seems he had a blued pistol and a chrome plated pistol that he cleaned with Hoppes No 9 solvent. He then wiped both guns down, and placed them in a felt lined drawer in his gun cabinet. Sometime later he went to look at his pistols, and while the blued gun was fine, he noticed that the chrome plating on his other gun was beginning to flake and peel off. This happened on the slide that was in contact with the felt lining. He wanted to know how this happened.

Cooper responded that he believed that not all of the Hoppes was cleaned off the guns and that whatever remained, probably drained into the felt lining. There it was in contact with the slide of the gun and most likely was the cause of the plating coming off. Since Hoppes is a copper removing solvent, Cooper thought that it found its way into the copper plating underneath the chrome plating, and went to work removing the copper layer like it was designed to do.

So ever since then I have avoided using Hoppes on any of my plated guns and all of them have been absolutely fine, with all of their plated surfaces completely intact. To keep them looking clean and bright, I use Flitz on them once or twice a year, depending on how much they have been used, handled, etc. I have been doing this for more years than I can remember, and so far everything still looks and works just fine.
 
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Simichrome Polish

I have not use Flitz; it may be as good as or better than Simichrome; but I have used Simichrome on nickel guns. I have a SW 34 (Kit gun) in nickel that I had bought, fairly cheaply, because someone had stored it in leather holster and it was heavily 'cloudy' (if you know how Nickel can get). Had it for years, fine shooter, but the cloudiness drove me nuts.


Anyhow, a couple of months ago someone told me to get Simichrome; very difficult to find, but I eventually got a tube at a Speed Shop.

Wow. I can't say the gun looks new; but it made about a 95% improvement; about the only thing it didn't fix was where the nickel had actually worn thru at the muzzle. I do suspect it is ammonia based, so be sure to wipe it down thoroughly after using it to remove all of the ammonia; but it worked wonderfully at getting rid of the cloudiness.

It's abot 10 bucks a tube, one small tube ought to last for years, if not the rest of your life.
 
< dont let this get around> ...Colgate toothpaste will work in a pinch... but go easy---it is a mild abrasive.

Hoppes will get under nickleplate if you have a minor chip or scratch also... it breaks the bond between the nickle and copper and starts the flakes.
 
Bunch does not realize that a copper coating is first on which nickel or chrome is added. Colts that were sold around the first of this century tended to flake starting around the front of the cylinder.
My 45 Colts ere puchased in 2001and I got lucky. The Colts were used every Saturday and Sunday for about two years. Flitz and copper brush in a drill at low speed works wonders.
I have cleaned my M29 6 1/2" nickel with Flitz since I bought it new around 1974. Looks great besides wear and tear.

"What Types Of Surfaces Can I Use Flitz On?

The list is endless. Flitz is non-toxic, non-acidic, and non-abrasive, which makes it very safe to use as a strong, effective cleaner on just about any solid surface. This includes all metals, from your best gold and silver to the aluminum and chrome on your car or motorcycle. Other solid surfaces include Fiberglass, Acrylic, Tile, Marble, Granite, Ceramic, Corian, Plexiglas, Eisenglass, and smooth vinyl. Flitz is also great on hard laminates like Formica.'
 
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