What tool do you use to tap out the wedge?
- Thread starter BowerR64
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Malachi Leviticus Blue
Member
You really should be able to just pull it out with your fingers if its set up right, but I have a 6 in piece of 1 x 2 hickory I use as a mallet sometimes. I also have a brass punch but have only had to resort to that a few times.
72coupe
Member
I use my right thumb to start it then just pull it out with my fingers.
jgh4445
Member
^^^^^^ This
BullSlinger
Member
Rubber mallet then a wood stick I took a pocket knife to. All my wedges are tight except a Pietta 44 Navy including 2nd gen and signature.
Smokin'Joe
Member
Homemade Knocker
Brass plumbing with a hallow-ground screwdriver bit. Never leave home without it!
Brass plumbing with a hallow-ground screwdriver bit. Never leave home without it!
Willie Sutton
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- Apr 28, 2013
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They should push out, but a handy range bag tool is one of the small soft-head hammers that has a brass face on one side and a nylon face on the other. They are about 8 inches long and are useful things for many purposes. I think I got mine at Harbor Freight but they are a standard hardware store item.
Midway has them with interchangable steel/nylon/brass faces and a punch insude the hollow handle. This is the best tool for the range box.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/19...s-nylon-and-steel-heads-and-drift-punch-10-oz
Willie
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Midway has them with interchangable steel/nylon/brass faces and a punch insude the hollow handle. This is the best tool for the range box.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/19...s-nylon-and-steel-heads-and-drift-punch-10-oz
Willie
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whughett
Member
That is what I use if necessary, the Walker and Paterson come out with just a finger push, the 1860 colt is worn and has to be seated with a light tap then unseated the same way.
The Lyman hammer also is used to unseat the base pin on the Remmy after a couple cylinders of firing.
Crawdad1
Member
A block of wood when they get stuck, but they should just push out with some thumb pressure. Sometimes they don't.
tpelle
Member
Like others have said, they should just push out.
The Italians tend to leave the wedges too wide. I find that I have to take a flat file (laying on the bench) and run each side of a new wedge over the file several times, then try it. Eventually you will reach a point where the right end of the wedge is almost ready to emerge from the right side of the barrel lug slot, then I stop with the filing. A little cold blue finishes it.
On all of my revolvers I can use thumb pressure from the right side to start the wedge moving, then pull it out the rest of the way from the other side, until the spring in the wedge hooks on the head of the retaining screw.
By the way, it is NEVER necessary to remove that retaining screw, as it holds nothing in place. Its only purpose is to have its head slightly overlap the wedge slot, where the spring in the wedge hooks on it and keeps the wedge attached to the barrel during disassembly.
If you've got to use a tool to get the wedge out (at least after the first time when it was last installed by Guido the Gorilla) then you need to get the flat file out. I know you want to!
The Italians tend to leave the wedges too wide. I find that I have to take a flat file (laying on the bench) and run each side of a new wedge over the file several times, then try it. Eventually you will reach a point where the right end of the wedge is almost ready to emerge from the right side of the barrel lug slot, then I stop with the filing. A little cold blue finishes it.
On all of my revolvers I can use thumb pressure from the right side to start the wedge moving, then pull it out the rest of the way from the other side, until the spring in the wedge hooks on the head of the retaining screw.
By the way, it is NEVER necessary to remove that retaining screw, as it holds nothing in place. Its only purpose is to have its head slightly overlap the wedge slot, where the spring in the wedge hooks on it and keeps the wedge attached to the barrel during disassembly.
If you've got to use a tool to get the wedge out (at least after the first time when it was last installed by Guido the Gorilla) then you need to get the flat file out. I know you want to!
It is obvious to me that if you can't push it out with hand pressure and need something to remove it, you would want to use something that would not scratch or "ding up" the gun.
This is what I made up from a 1 3/4" round wood ball and a 7/16" dowel rod. As you can see from the picture all the marks are on the wooden tool and never on the gun. Give the wedge a tap with the wood ball and the dowel is notched to fit into the slot, to push the wedge out.
It measures only 5" long and can fit into most any Range Bag/Box.
This is what I made up from a 1 3/4" round wood ball and a 7/16" dowel rod. As you can see from the picture all the marks are on the wooden tool and never on the gun. Give the wedge a tap with the wood ball and the dowel is notched to fit into the slot, to push the wedge out.
It measures only 5" long and can fit into most any Range Bag/Box.
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forward observer
Member
My neighbor comes over to do it for me and she uses this.
It does leave the wedge a bit banged up, but I never complain. You'd be amazed at how many times it seems to get stuck lately.
Cheers
It does leave the wedge a bit banged up, but I never complain. You'd be amazed at how many times it seems to get stuck lately.
Cheers
Dframe
Member
Small plastic mallet I bought at a hardware store.
44 Dave
Member
Thumb pressure, once in a while I need to press with a plastic handle of a screwdriver.
The wedge, cylinder-barrel gap, short arbor issues taken care of makes a perfect world!
The wedge, cylinder-barrel gap, short arbor issues taken care of makes a perfect world!
jgh4445
Member
You can use one half of one of those clothes pins that have the spring in them. Trim the end back until its a good fit, about equal to the thickness of the wedge. Handy, small and easy to carry with you in your shooting bag.
Smokin'Joe
Member
forward observer, I have a stuck wedge or two. Could I borrow your neighbor?
forward observer
Member
Sometimes i can get it with just my thumb it depends on how much is sticking out the right side. Usually it needs a little start.
Funny everyone says they should push out but everyone has a tool. lol
My 51 was tight till after i shot it a few times then it started to loosen up and push in a little further.
Ill bet those take #11s?
Funny everyone says they should push out but everyone has a tool. lol
My 51 was tight till after i shot it a few times then it started to loosen up and push in a little further.
My neighbor comes over to do it for me and she uses this.
It does leave the wedge a bit banged up, but I never complain. You'd be amazed at how many times it seems to get stuck lately.
Cheers
Ill bet those take #11s?
45 Dragoon
Member
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- May 18, 2013
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- 2,778
On the fence with this. If the wedge is loose, the barrel assy and the frame will beat (jackhammer) it to death. If you can get it out with lite thumb pressure, it may be on the verge of too loose. Heavy thumb pressure may be ok (if the arbor is bottoming out in the arbor hole). The main thing is NO movement in the slot whatsoever !! I do the arbor length fix on all of mine plus a cast for Lat/Horz. movement so it's the same perf. fit each time with NO movement DURING the shot. If you can push the wedge in far enough to bind or close the barrel/cyl gap, THAT is the biggest problem. I relocate the spring on my wedge to the op. end and trim it to fit just behind the wedge screw head. This locks it in place and maintains a perf fit (after fixing the arbor situation though). I also put a set screw in the end of all my arbors for final adjustment/ fine fitting for wedge wear from assy/dis.assy.
45 Dragoon
Oh yeah, I use the wooden handle of my screwdriver.
45 Dragoon
Oh yeah, I use the wooden handle of my screwdriver.
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Thats kinda why i need something to tap it out i push it in pretty tight. I actually tap it in.
I have done the arbor fix wich pushes the barrel away a little more then stock making the wedge a tad bit tighter.
I also use the screw so when i tap it in it stops on that screw.
I think im about done with colts they are just to darn finiky. Ive yet to get one setup well enough to out shoot any of my Remingtons.
I can keep em on the target but ive yet to get any kind of grouping with one.
I have done the arbor fix wich pushes the barrel away a little more then stock making the wedge a tad bit tighter.
I also use the screw so when i tap it in it stops on that screw.
I think im about done with colts they are just to darn finiky. Ive yet to get one setup well enough to out shoot any of my Remingtons.
I can keep em on the target but ive yet to get any kind of grouping with one.
Captain*kirk
Member
Half a clothespin. Colt wedges, when properly fitted, should pop out with thumb pressure, but sometimes they get stuck.
EljaySL
Member
I actually have a little rectangular brass punch (described here as a wedge puller but it doesn't pull anything http://www.possibleshop.com/s-s-tools.html ) which will work in combination with a rubber mallet to remove even very stubborn, fresh from Guido wedges. I had one that resisted everything else - clothespins shattered, etc. etc. so well worth the $4.
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