what type of refinishing?

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aufevermike

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What recommendations can you give me for a refinishing job on a Colt Defender (frame and slide). I have heard of Duracoat and diamondcoat. What finishes are you happy with? What finishes didn't hold up to your expectations? I want this professionaly done so any recommedations on that would be great too especially if they are THR members.
 
I've been nothing but happy with Robar's NP3 finish.

When they say "No lubrication is needed on opposing surfaces" and "Cleaning is minimal, usually requiring only a soft cloth", they aren't kidding.
 
I like the hard chrome process. It's not only tough, it doesn't chip or wear. Polished it looks like stainless, but it's much harder and doesn't scratch.
 
Hard Chrome is nice when cleaning because you can see where you need to clean the parts. I also like Norrell's Moly Resin because it's very durable compared to Duracoat. The nice thing about Duracoat is it does not require baking and it comes in many colors.
 
If you want to go dark, Walter Birdsong's "Black T" is very popular. No website, no press, just a phone number (that someone else might remember?), or you can go through a gunsmith if you want other work done.
 
I had a 1911 hard chromed by Tripp. I'm very happy with it. It's a smooth, slick surface. Easy to clean and very tough.

I'll tell ya though, that Robar NP3 looks very interesting. I'd think hard about that one for the next gun I get refinished.
 
The Best Available Finishes

The ABSOLUTE best coating is one of the physical vapor deposition coatings such as Titanium Aluminum Nitride, Titanium Carbonitride, Tungsten Diamond Like Carbon.

Who uses this coating? Sigarms. They call it "Nitron".

Who coats it? Ionbond/Bodycote

Where do you go to obtain this coating?

Contact The Accurizer Gun Shop (Marianne Carniak) in Troy, Michigan [email protected] or Ned Christiansen of Michi-Guns [email protected] also in Michigan. They are two of the several gunsmiths in the US that they choose to deal exclusively through.

For more information on PVD coatings please review the threads at http://www.pistolsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=27318

and

http://www.pistolsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=21842
 
+2 for NP3

Had it done on a Para kit gun and really liked it. I liked their Roguard finish too but it was very glossy. I think they have a process to matte it out. NP3 is a little different, and has a sort of pewter grey appearance I thought was neat; Came out better on a Commander than it did on the Para, I think it had something to do with how nice the surface prep at Hartford was in the first place; Don't know what you're thinking of having it done to, but you might want to ask about surface prep and it it makes any difference.

I like hard chrome: I was advised that some aluminum frames (Caspian) won't take the heat that goes with it. Colt and others not a problem, they can advise. Wears like iron, never chipped it. Novaks did one for me over ss and Checkmate did one for me on a steel frame.

I had a bad experience with Black T applied by/thru Kings on a p-12. It was flaking off when I received it. I sent it back and things didn't get any better. \
Maybe just me, but I'd go Roguard next time.

Finishing has really taken off since I last had one done; my gun store and shooting buddy had a couple of Springfields don in the Wilson (Armor tuff?) finish and they looked and held up great.

Cheers, TF
 
PVD vs Spray-n-Bake Finishes... NO CONTEST

Well, Robar advertises that "all customers are satisfied" and I can assure you that I am not one of them as is a close friend of mine. I had a Kimber TLE II and he a Glock 23 that was flaking off after just one magazine of amunition. Well, they did refinish the pistols, but things aren't much better.

To top things off the finish is quite slippery. And it wore off on all of the edges ad contact surfaces of the Blade-Tech IWB holster draws. At about 500 presentations and reholsterings I could detect wear. At 1100 there is noticeable wear. I then satisfied my research with physical vapor deposition coatings and contacted MMI in El Cahon, CA where they applied TiAlN to my Springfield TRP. Changes in management precluded me from offering that service for more than about 1.25 years - about the time I had concluded my testing.

I've run 5,000 rounds thru a Titanium Aluminum Nitride-coated 1911 and showed only minor wear on the rear of the frame rail.

The Tugsten Diamond-like Carbide (W DLC)-coated Springfield 1911 has gone thru about 3,000 rounds - and counting - with no lubrication and it has shown NO wear. Perhaps the fact that I had the smith polish the rails - it was too tight for my purposes when new - played some effect. I dunno.

Both pistols have undergone well over 5,000 holster draws from a Blade-Tech IWB holster and the only thing I get is exceedingly thin layers of kydex deposited on the slide near the front cocking serrations, intermittently along the dust cover and along the trigger guard. A thin amount of oil applied to the surface and a razor blade lifts the plastic depositions off of the coating.

Both of these customized TRPs are daily carry and shooting school guns so they are not babied. The only way to remove the coating is to damage the underlying metal, say, by puncturing the slide or frame with a pointed object like a nail. In fact, I will have the first TRP coated with W DLC to make them both identical, however, either coating is satisfactory. Perhaps the W DLC is better due to having a 2 micron layer of electroless Nickel applied before the 4 micron layer of W DLC is applied. Phenomenal process (I've witnessed it being applied at their open house in Michigan facility) and I can PERSONALLY attest to the wearability of the coating. Of course, one could purchase a "Nitron"-coated Sigarms product and test it for themselves for less money than I spent on .45 ACP... But I can assure you I shoot exceedingly well after all of the live fire and dry fire drills I've conducted over the last 2.5 years. :neener:

I am absolutely convinced and the links provided will take you thru the saga of determining "the best damned coating" for a fighting firearm.

The finishes alluded to above are THE BEST POSSIBLE finishes with any publicly released technology.

Research it for self.
 
KG Gunkote

I have been using KG Gunkote.
Call Joe Fazio (800-348-9558,www.kgcoatings.com) and he will walk you through the entire process. It requires blasting the pistol with 120 grit aluminum oxide. The apply K-phos wait 15-20 Minutes to dry. Blow off tack it, and spray with a good quality airbrush or Detail gun. I use the DeVilbiss Sri630G-08 and an iwata HP-c to do the small parts and inside the frame and slide. Best to dehorn all edges , clean , clean clean even before blasting. After the finish is applied you need to bake it at 300-325 degrees for about one hour. Don't use the wife or girlfriends oven if you wish to stay happy. I went to walmart and purchased a ge backing oven for $ 39.00 . You can do rifles in a smoker oven. Gander mountain sells them and they are propane powered and easy to convert. It is quite durable and I have one HP and a colt that I use continually , toss into a safe full of guns with no case and they are surviving extremely well. NO solvent will remove the finish once it is fully cured, so if you decide to refinish you will have to reblast it.
Hope this helps
 
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