what's a good cleaning kit?

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dusty73

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I have been using Hoppe's cleaning kit for my Beretta 92, but some ppl told me that Hoppe's does more harm than good? Is that true?
 
Nope. If it were true, wouldn't we have heard more about the problems with Hoppe's sometime over the past 100 years or so? Could it be they are talking about some of the brushes or perhaps a steel rod? If the kit does have a steel rod, I would suggest getting a different one. A coated one is best, but even aluminum is better than steel.
 
I've had Hoppe's in my cleaning kit since I started shooting almost 2 decades ( :what: ) ago. I wouldn't worry about the stuff...it's even okay on some/most/all poly frames.
My kit has patches, q-tips, screw driver, brushes, jags, rods solvet & lube.
 
Dunno
I have a Al Hoppes rod that has to be 30 yrs old, I have the military steel Kleanbore I've had since late 70's or early 80's...Otis pull through since they came out (Kit and Kaboodle I think).

I've never used a coated rod, don't have one, I did use to make "laps" with caoted metal for a trade I use to do. I mainly clean from breech to muzzle, wipe rod between passes. If I have to go from muzzle I use a muzzle guard...Have used a wooden thread spool or a drinking straw.

Actually I just came in from the rain ...old habits die hard...pc of rawhide leather with a slit and a patch inserted... pulled through...as a kid thats what we used a -"thong". My 1911 just made sure unloaded, rack the slide, breech to muzzle, done.

I've heard the arguments...think it boils down to common sense and watching what your doing more than a brand specific dealie.
 
Consider Otis cleaning kits...

They've got their place in your toolbox, are compact as hell, and the professional kit is like $35, and will cover a broad range of calibers and guntypes.
 
The promise of kits is that they include everything you need. The reality of kits is that they don't. I've got a capacious tool box with twenty-odd pounds' worth of cleaning gadgetry, plus more stuff in my range box, plus...

I've been using Hoppe's No. 9 for three decades without problem, although I've read it's not a good idea to use it on nickel-plated firearms, since it can attack the copper under nickel plating.

Hoppe's No. 9 makes a pretty good after-shave lotion.
 
Standing Wolf, do you know of a cleaner that is safe for nickel ?

I'm looking to get a handgun with just that particular finish, and want to play it safe. Sorry to be diverting this thread slightly, but I was a little unnerved when I read the above post.

:)
 
Hoppes is good, but they are no where near the best these days. A lot of good formulas have come out in the last 15 years.

-Robert
 
re: nickel, IN THEORY if one wipes off Hoppes it wont hurt...BUT Hoppes will seep into places you can't wipe off. Granted todays Hoppes is different than the Old that Penguin Industries dist. Still I don't /won't use it.

I use lighter fluid and patience.

I have used Simichrome (tm ) forever on precious metals, (plat, gold, silver) and have used on brass...nickel...usually to get a build up front of cyl thats been neglected.

I also have used Baking Soda to polish metals...light paste with water, or mineral oil. Baking soda is what I use for fiberglass showers, steel sinks, and copper pots and pans...for a long time....

HTH
 
Breakfree CLP is pretty good bore cleaner. Put on patch, work it. Use clean patches. A bronze brush if there's any build-up. Repeat as necessary.

NICKEL: Beware of anything that contains AMMONIA. That includes most stuff labeled copper solvent. It can get under the nickel at the edges like the bore crown or cylinder front and eat the copper coating that holds the nickel to the steel. Result: peeling nickel. I have nickel S&Ws years old that look 100%, but no copper solvent comes near those puppies. :uhoh:
 
Standing Wolf, do you know of a cleaner that is safe for nickel ?

I'm not sure, truth to tell. I have only one nickel-plated gun, a Colt Detective Special, and rarely take it to the range. I'd probably use Break-Free, or perhaps plain old-fashioned mineral spirits. I don't care for the smell of mineral spirits, but am sure there's no ammonia in the stuff, and it dissolves anything I've ever seen on or in guns.

If I carried the Detective Special, I'd take it to the range much more frequently—or buy a blued model.
 
I also cast a vote for the Otis kits. As with any kit, some additional supplies must be added. A good copper solvent and a good grease or oil type lube, if thats your preference, will need to be purchased. The Otis kits practically eliminate any chance of muzzle/bore damage that used to be so common in military weapons. The old steel rods, vigorously applied could do some accuracy robbing damage. A good coated rod with some type of muzzle guide can also be very effective. Sweets 7.62, Firepower FP-10, Tetra products and TW25B are products I use a lot. Be sure to follow all guidelines for these products usage.
 
The one that you will use when you get done shooting. There are lots of good cleaning product on the market. Just make sure you clean and lube your weapons before you put them up.
 
I don't agree with the statement that aluminum rods are better than steel. Grit gets embedded in aluminum rod and can act as a pretty effective file. I'm not a big fan of coated rods if for no other reason than they have a finite life span. I've had very good luck with quality, one-piece steel rods.

Regardless, the most important thing is taking one's time and not beating anything against the crown.
 
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