whats a good lead remover?

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jack44

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I have a lead problem with my rifle it seems like I have alot of lead inside the barrel and it's hurting me sighting in so can anyone reomend a product there just so much looking thru midways catlog.
 
Lead?

What caliber and make & model rifle is it?

If it's a .22 Rimfire, use a cleaning rod, bronze bore brush, and powder solvent, combined with some elbow grease. Follow it with clean solvent soaked patches.

Follow that by changing ammo brands to something better.

If it's a centerfire, you most likely have copper jacket fouling, not leading.
A cleaning rod & Copper Solvent is the way to remove that.
Just follow the instructions on the bottle.

rc
 
Hoppes #9 along with a bore swab wrapped in COPPER chore boy or any other COPPER scrubbing pad has always worked for me. What caliber rifle is it?
 
Chore boy is a good one wrapped around a bore brush,the copper only stuff,not the copper coated steel.I myself have bought a Foul Out III system and it cleans evry last speck of lead and copper out of the barrel,pricey though.
For chemical ,the best one I found(of the ones I have tried)is Hoppes #9.Others say Kroil(spelling?)is really good.
 
Micro-Groove rifling or cut land & groove rifling?
Bevel base or flat base bullets?
What size bullets?
What weight bullets?
What powder & charge?

Regardless, you need to slug your bore and find out what dia bullets you need to order.

Often times, commercial cast bullets you buy are lubed with blue or whatever color hard lube that will stay on the bullets during hot & cold weather shipping.
They are more concerned with that then whether it is good bullet lube or not.

Real Alox soft bullet lube, applied at home, will go far in preventing leading.

Powder selection is also very important to prevent melting the base of the bullet (Too fast) or failing to obdurate or bump up the bullet to fit the bore perfectly (not fast enough ) and prevent gas blow-by or gas cutting..

Need more answers before we can offer many answers.

rc
 
Yes but, the real answer to the reloading question is, why is there all that leading, and how to stop it from happening in the first place?

Not how to remove it.

The OP shouldn't have severe leading in a 45-70, if we can get a few answers from him to figure out the cause.

The U.S.A. fought wars with lead bullet 45-70's 130 years ago without leading.
No reason we can't shoot 45-70's without leading today.

rc
 
300, flat top 350, 405 al flat top
IMR 3031 IMR4198 30 grains 51.7l hard cast lead 459 dia.

its a new gun dont know what rifling marlin or rem.used.
 

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300, flat top 350, 405 al flat top
IMR 3031 IMR4198 30 grains 51.7l
I don't know how to make heads or tails of that??

But if it says what I think it says, you have your powders & charge weights reversed.

Are you loading IMR-3031 using 30.0 grains or 51.7 grains?
Or are you loading IMR-4198 using 30.0 grains or 51.7 grains?
With which bullet weight?

Current Hodgdon data:
300 grain bullet
IMR-3031 = 51.7 Start - 55.0 MAX.
IMR-4198 = 30.0 Start - 35.5 MAX.

No data shown for 350 Grain.

405 Grain bullet:
IMR-3031 = 45.5 Start - 48.5 MAX.
IMR-4198 = 30.0 Start - 32.0 MAX.

rc
 
I got all the reloading info at Hodgen data under trapdoor 51.7 grains of IMR 3031 for 300 cast lead - 30 grains for 405 laser cast I look for 350 there none so I called up Hodgen and the guy said use the 385 trapdoor for the 350!.
 
Well, I would try the IMR-4198 if you have some.

Our up the charge on the IMR-3031 to something above the start load.

Either should "bump" the bullet up better to fit the bore.

I'm guessing the start load of slow powder isn't, and leading is the result.

rc
 
RevolverDan - I have used Lewis Lead Removers for my handguns for over 40 years. They do work, but in the last few years I started using the copper chore boy method and it seems to work faster.
 
Res7s I have the sinkers from beartooth to slug the barrel and when I did it just the rub to get it into the barrel but no rifling groves! must have to much lead inside.
 
Get the diameter of the throat. Match the bullet to it.
http://www.mountainmolds.com/helpRifle.htm

I haven't had any leading problems since I started shooting fat bullets in my 336's. I load the largest diameter bullet that will chamber without being forced. If there is any resistance, I go a little smaller. Since I've been doing this, I run an Ed's Red soaked patch through, followed by dry patches until they come out clean. It usually only takes three to four patches.

In the past, tee shirt material on a good brass jag has worked wonders for me. If needed, I use Ed's Red or plain kerosene to remove lead. For copper, I use something with ammonia in it. Just make sure you clean and oil afterward.

If you go to the Cast Boolits forum you can find a thread on shooting the lead out. I can't remember who started it, but the idea is to use a fat pure lead bullet going through at a reduced velocity. IDK how well it works. I've never tried it.
 
bullet going through at a reduced velocity. IDK how well it works. I've never tried it.
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OK I'l let you know if the range is open this weekend .I am going to shoot 405 cast filled with 13 grains of unique somebody said this will help.
 
put some penetrating lube in the barrel, let it soak and dry patch the excess out. Then push a few jacketed bullets down the tube, that'll get a lot of the lead out.
 
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