What's best lead cleaning method

[mugsie]

I shoot lots and lots of lead bullets as I'm sure most people do. I get lead fouling in the barrel. What's the best method of cleaning lead from the barrel? My present method is the armstrong method whereby I soak a brass brush in solvent, like Outers or Hoppes #9 and using my strong arm - scrub and scrub and scrub and .... . What are some of your ideas on removing lead? Thanks...

 

[dfariswheel]

All the old time revolver shooters had a Lewis Lead Remover in their tool kit.
This is a fast, safe method of removing lead without risking damage to an expensive barrel.

Unlike a number of "expedient" methods and materials, the Lewis has been in use since the 1940's ?? and hasn't damaged a gun yet.

Plus, the Lewis is about the only way to clean off the forcing cone.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=21587&title=LEWIS+LEAD+REMOVER

While the Lewis does clean cylinders too, a faster method is bronze chamber brushes.
These are special, extra-stiff over-sized bristle brushes that remove all fouling from a chamber quickly.
Just "screw" into the chamber and give it a turn or two. Then turn/pull it back out.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/st...287&title=BRONZE+RIFLE/PISTOL+CHAMBER+BRUSHES

 

[Chuck R.]

I kid you not.........

get a "Chore Boy" copper scouring pad, cut off a piece and wrap it around an old bronze brush for a tight fit in your bore. Watch the slivers of lead come out.

I usually clean the bore first with solvent, then run the "Chore Boy" patch through several times dry.

Then more solvent, dry and oil.

Chuck

 

[bakert]

I agree with Chuck R. Most of my shooting is with cast bullets. Although I do have a lead remover for .38/.357 caliber, I don't for others and find the strands of scouring pad(no Soap) wrapped around a bore brush is easier and quicker for all of my guns. I usually run a patch saturated with Breakfree CLP through the bore and let sit for a while then just brush the lead out. Any other good solvent would work well too. Some barrels seem to lead worse than others maybe because of roughness and may take a couple of applications but it's a still pretty quick way to go.

 

[Steve C]

There are a lot better lead removing bore cleaners than the "do it all" solvents like Hoppes 9. Shooters Choice Lead Remover and MPRO-5 works much better. I like the lead removing "wipe-a-way" cloths. Cutting a patch and running them through the bore on a jag after you've taken the majority out with a few passes of the brush gets rid of most all the lead. I've also used the Hydrogen Peroxide and white vinegar solution for a bore that's leaded bad.

About a year ago I started lubing most of my commercial cast bullets with Lee's Liquid Alox. It seems to pretty near eliminate leading and what little there is comes out with a pass or two of a brush soaked even with standard solvent or Ed's Red home made bore cleaner.

 

[Froggy]

My present method is the armstrong method whereby I soak a brass brush in solvent, like Outers or Hoppes #9 and using my strong arm - scrub and scrub and scrub and .... . What are some of your ideas on removing lead? Thanks...

I get pretty good results with a similar technique using Hoppes #9. There are a few differences...

First, I don't soak my brush in the solvent. Most solvents will work at removing copper as well as lead. Your brush might be brass but is more likely bronze; both are mostly copper. Soaking them in the solvent wears them out prematurely and, unless you wash them between cleaning sessions, soaking the brushes in the solvent just puts junk in your solvent bottle.

Instead, I get a patch good and sloppy with solvent then run it down the bore. I set the barrel aside for a while and just let the solvent do its thing. The wife insists I put rags down to keep the solvent that works its way out the bore from getting on the carpet, etc, but if I put it down horizontally I minimize the mess and keep the solvent in the bore where it can work.

After letting it soak for a few minutes (i.e. when the next commercial break interrupts whatever show I'm watching), I use a dry patch to swab out whatever gunk the solvent has loosened up, then I run a bronze brush through the bore a few times... maybe a half-dozen good strokes.

Then I give it a solvent-soaked patch, followed by a short soak and several dry patches to get it clean and dry.

If it was a short day at the range, one cycle is usually all it takes. Visual inspection tells me if more are required.

 

[shooting on a shoestring]

Red Flag!!! You shouldn't be getting leading in the first place.

Muggsie, You don't say what you're shooting. That makes a big difference. As a handloader and revolver shooter, any leading is a red flag saying there is a problem. Lead loads should shoot cleanly. I believe you should look for the root cause and take care of that instead of putting up with what sounds like serious leading. I typically shoot 300 to 500 rounds per session and see very light leading just after my forcing cones. That get knocked out be either 20 to 30 strokes of a tight fitting dry brush, or a cylinder of lead cutter loads.

I use rifle brushes instead of pistol brushes b/c the rifle ones are longer and give more scrubbing per stroke. Also I discard brushes when they first begin to take a set. A brush needs to have solid pressure on all of the bristles when its in the bore. A good brush should take less than 30 strokes to completely remove all signs of leading. If you have more lead than that you have a serious problem. Also be sure when you brush to have a breeze at your back to blow away the lead particles. You shouldn't breathe them.

Lead cutter loads are cool. They are simply a few grains of fast powder like Bullseye or HP38, a lead bullet seated as far out as practical, and the remaining case space filled with Cream of Wheat. The Cream of Wheat acts like a high pressure multi bristle brush. A cylinder full will clean up a barrel even if its moderately leaded. Ive never seen it take more than 2 cylinders worth. They smell like burnt popcorn when you shoot them.

I'm a chemist by training and trade and I stay away from the lead removing solutions. May I suggest there are better things to die from than cancer or liver damage.

 

[Stevie-Ray]

First is to fire one or two jacketed bullets after a lead session. This will remove a lot of the lead fouling. Then, what I always used is RIG lead-removing cloth. Just a piece forced in with a jag tip does wonders. There were several other makers, one of which called it Lead-free. They all worked quite well for removing black-face from cylinders as well.

 

[sargenv]

I'm actually surprised that no one has mentioned any of the Outer's Foul Out solutions. They have 3 models now (I have the Foul Out II) and they do a very good job of removing lead and copper fouling from any barrel. I used to use it all the time when shooting straight lead bullets. It takes some time, but I never had to use elbow grease again after picking up mine.

The jacketed following lead can be useful, but in a very fouled barrel might lead to an overpressure load and may damage the barrel. I've seen cases where the barrel became very leaded and if they were to fire a jacketed bullet it would have resulted in damage.

Vince

 

[Walkalong]

Less Lead = Less Work

Red Flag!!! You shouldn't be getting leading in the first place.

I agree. Fix this problem and all the above suggestions will clean your barrel up with 80 to 90% less work. Less Lead = Less Work

Firing one or too jacketed after shooting lead works well, never tried the Cream of Wheat. I hear it works well. Use stuff aimed at lead, not copper.

Many BR 50 guys swear by Marine Pal & Shooters Pal for .22's. I just got mine in the mail and am going to try it soon.

 

[sm]

dfariswheel

Gives great advice as always. My Lewis walked off. I have bought Lead Remover cloth and cut patches , I have found pre-cut patches as well.

I have put this patch on a Nylon brush (tad bigger), to get the chamber, using a jag or nylon brush for the bore. Nylon because the patch is easier to get on and off...and these were handy. Bronze will work.


I have used the Chore Boy method...just I prefer to keep simple with the Lead Remover cloth.

Use a muzzle guard and protector for frame (pc of plastic/cardboard with a rubber band, so rod does not whack the frame exiting the chamber).

Actually MY best method - is to hand guns to gun buddy, let him use the Lewis Lead Remover he has , or his lead removing cloths.

I go out back and shoot something , with his ammo, drink his coffee and on a good day he has donuts, or some kind of snack.

I like this simple stuff...

 

[possum]

shooters choice lead remover has done great for me, and birchwood casey gun scrubber that i buy at wal-mart does pretty good to.

 

[Jay29]

I use JB Bore paste in the barrel and cylinders followed up with break free and break free on everything else. That is it. No more inhaling chemicals.