What's so hard about firing a .38 snub accurately?

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jake01

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I have a S&W 642. It's great to carry but I can't shoot it!!!! Everytime I go to the range, I can only shoot it accurately up to about 12-15 feet. I've tried different ammo too. I carry Federal nyclad 125 g, non plus p.

With my Kahr P9, I can hit everthing at much longer ranges. The barrell length can't account for that much....can it?

The problem is that I'd much rather carry the 642 in my pocket. :rolleyes:

Any tips?
 
Snubs are best for close in use. Whenever I fire one, I can usually get good groups from 3 to 7 yards. Anything past that and the rounds shoot too low. Barrel length and sight radius are probably to blame.
 
The j-frames typically have far more inherent accuracy than the operators. But then, they are not intended to be 25-yard good groupers, altho some people can.

IMHO, very short sight radius and lousy rear sight (often just a groove) contribute to the problem. And lousy DAO triggers, especially on the Smiths of more recent production. (My 2-year old 340 went to the gunsmith twice and is still not as good as previous 342 or very old 36.)

And then again, in conjunction with the above, old eyes get to be a contributing factor, especially around 40 and beyond. Altho certainly not totally dependent upon, the Crimson Trace overmoulded laser grip has proven to be a very nice addition for quicker, longer range accuracy here. :D Handy too for seeing any undesireable last-instant movement during lots of (cheap) dry fire practice around the house. :)
 
Learning to work a double action trigger, especially on a lightweight revo is a matter for conscious practice. There is no royal road to snubby mastery, like Aristotle told Alexander about geometry, iirc.
 
So true, I've shot decent 25yd groups with a 2" snubby (an EAA Windicator no less, they just cut off the 4" barrel and don't even re-crown it). It's certainly possible, but I do find things easier with my 4" gp-100..
 
Sorry, that prior reference should have been Euclid according to Google. So, if I may be so bold I will offer the following aphorism to posterity. You saw it first on THR, folks!

"There is no royal road to snubby mastery." George
 
Jake,

Hang in there, like others said, it just takes work...lots, lots, lots
of practice.

Also, you might try loads with different bullet weights. I've got a fairly new 442 that shoots very low and to the right ( at 7 yds. )
with the 125-130 grain loads. I tryed 158gr. lead and I'm shooting
point of aim..........

good luck,

Mike
 
At about 20 feet, use the sights until you get the right grip and trigger roll, and are hitting with no problem. From there on it's easy, one-hand or two. A great feeling when you cross this line.

But you have to keep practicing. I shoot mostly one-handed, with a titanium 340PD.
 
I'm afraid yeah .... IMO the short answer is ''practice'' ........ lots of it. My M85 Taurus is a summer carry piece .. and I almost always practice D/A only (it has a very smooth D/A I might add too)... after all, that's the way you'd most likely need it .... ''up close and personal''.

However . I do and always have, check out a few S/A shots at greater distance .. just to know it can ''reach'' ..... have to aim off a tad to right always but .. if it were a case of connecting with COM at say, 20 - 25 yds ... it'll cut it!! At least I know that.;)
 
Short sight radius, low profile (read hard to use) sights, and normally a butt that doesn't fit the hand well all contribute to problems shooting small-frame revolvers.

All I can say is practice, practice, practice.

And then, practice some more.
 
Like the other folks have said. The short sight radius, non-existent rear sight, and long hard trigger pull all conspire to make them difficult to shoot accurately. Now you see why I don't advocate the titanium and scandium revolvers. To shoot a snubbie accurately, you've got to practice a lot. And you're not going to practice a lot with a 15 oz .357 :what:
 
Off a bench rest, my j-frame shoots very accurately. I'm sorry I figured that out because now all I can do is blame me :(
 
Inherently, snubby's are no less accurate than any other revolver.

But, because of the shortened sight radius are more difficult to shoot accurately. But they can be mastered! As others here have said the secret is practice, practice, practice. It is indeed a challenge to "master" a snubby but it shure is a great accomplishment and a lot of fun as well. Good shooting')
 
I have heard it stated before that the length of the barrel has no effect whatsoever on the stabilization of the bullet. This seems inherently illogical. Isn't there some minimum percentage of a complete twist that the bullet must make before exiting the barrel? Based on the aforementioned logic, a bullet fired out of a one-inch barrel would be as completely stabilized in flight (minus the effects, if any, from the reduced velocity) as from a twelve-inch barrel with identical twist and land/groove pattern.
 
Lousy sights and heavy trigger pull of most J frames (especially compared to the weight of the gun) are the primary factors to make them hard to shoot well not short barrels IMHO.

I have a 2 1/2" K-frame with great sights, great trigger, and more weight than any J-frame. Did quite well with it at the last THR mail in shoot. In fact I won my class (hope no notices I was the only one in that particular class:uhoh: )

Seriously I've found as I get older I actually shoot 4" guns better than 6" ones just because it's easier to get that perfect crystal clear front sight picture on the closer front sight. Maybe some day I'll shoot my 2 1/2" guns best of all :D
 
During my misspent youth I would sometimes show off by dropping six shots out of an older Colt Detective Special into the center of a police silhouette target at a measured 100 yards. This might, or might not sound outstanding, but the truth is there were plenty of others I knew who could do the same thing. That old Colt had a bigger grip then today’s run-of-the-mill S&W “J†frames and was splendidly accurate. Yes, the short sight radius did make a difference, but thanks to the Army’s Small Arms Training School at Camp Perry I knew the basics, including the need to focus my eye on the front sight, not the target. In other words the sight picture had to be in sharp focus with the target image blurred. This is important in any case, but it is particularly true when one has a very short sight radius.

A lot of today’s shooters have not been as lucky as I was when it comes to marksmanship training. I believe that any quality snub-nose revolver with “controllable†ammunition (most likely not +P) will shoot into a 4-inch circle at 25 yards if the shooter does his or her part. Of course using a larger, heavier revolver with a longer barrel will help. But the “snubby†can be mastered – if and only when the shooter understands and practices the correct principals of handgun marksmanship. Otherwise simply practicing may make the situation worse.
 
One trick I use: shooting from a weaver, I find that with the right grips on my snub, I can get a good hold that lines my forearm bones up with the ejector rod/cylinder pin of the gun, in a "single straight line".

At that point, everything just "clicks". I can do it on a K-Frame-class of course or anything with that grip (if it's round-butt!), and most SAs except the SBH large grip.

But not Glocks or 1911s, they just feel "completely wrong" and I can't shoot 'em for squat.
 
Good point Jim. It never ceases to amaze me how one person will love the way a particular handgun feels, the next guy hates it, same size hand yet! Hard to explain that "feel", that is so personal. That's sorta what makes it interesting too!
 
"I have a S&W 642. It's great to carry but I can't shoot it!!!! Everytime I go to the range, I can only shoot it accurately up to about 12-15 feet."



If you need to shoot any further ..............the 642 is the wrong weapon!!
A sub with a bigger grip like the Taurus ones with the 'ribber' grips will improve your acuraccy at longer ranges, but are not to good for CCW.

I bought a 1000 rounds of .38 FMJ full/flush wadcutter relaods a year or so back that I shoot through my Taurus 617T titanium snub .357 for training. They shoot like .22s and have given me a great feel for where my point of aim is with the little blue lightweight beast. I always shoot a few cylinders of full power .357 mags at each training session and can put them to the same point of aim out to 10 yards or so. I still have a 100 or so left and just to keep current I will get another 1K at the next gunshow.

My 617T is not for CCW but rather the go-to gun for aroud the house and my river walking piece for fishing when traveling light. The small invetment in the 1K of reloads was well worth now being familiar enough to shoot by point rather than sighting down the barrel as if I need this thing, it will most likely be in the dark.
 
If there was a real crisis that called for a 50yard shot and all I had was my snubby, I'd take a whack at it. I'd cock it first mind you :) but I've done some target shooting at that distance and trust the little critter.
 
I really dont understand this either. I shoot my snubbies just as well as my other guns.
 
Some criteria.............

First, the unlikely deadly encounter will occur within a few feet, probably in an area the size of the average home bedroom.

Second, snubs DO require regular practice and the right techniques. I tend to shoot at short distances, shoot DA only, and as quickly as I can acquire my target.

Third, grip is vital to me. I utilize a very strong, tight, wraparound grip which is secure and minimizes recoil dramatically.

What results am I aiming for? To empty my 5 rounds rapidly into an 8" pie plate at 5-7 yards. That's hitting "center-of-mass" effectively.
 
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