Which of these two for disabling car engine?

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A car engine can be stopped immediately by taking out the primary electrical system or fuel delivery, i.e. injection pump or lift pump(or a fuel line). On a diesel only taling out the fuel system will immediately stop the engine. Damaging the cooling system will take a while to stop the engine. Again,neither will immediately stop the car. Taking out the tires won't stop it either.
 
Interesting question...

Having seen engine blocks that have been put out of commission via a person with a single handed hammer.That is to say holes in the block but not deep penetration. I am now quite curious as to the effectiveness of one of those Hammerheads. Should penetrate into vital areas.

Consept of the .458SOCOM was to preform this as one of it's tasks. .45-70 would do the same,provided the projectile held up well enough.


That variety of .30-06 has a decent track record for the job.



IF I could not get away:uhoh:...Target driver,driverside tire,passenger side tire.In that order.
:eek:Wait for it,wait for it...JUMP and TUCK.Hope it works.
DRIVER,DRIVER,DRIVER...
 
I'd pick 30-06 and attempt to put some rounds into the "wheel house". 60MPH = 88fps that vechicle will be on you in 6.81 seconds.
 
45/70 lead won't penetrate cast iron or aluminum

Well, remember, we're not talking about armor plate or even mild steel. Cast iron/aluminum is pretty weak when it comes to impacts, and the .45-70 hard cast has more momentum and lower likelihood of deflection. Either round into a cast iron block is not going to poke a hole, but break out a rather large chunk of the water jacket. Whether or not the round has enough remaining energy and the alignment is correct to dent or break the cylinder wall is another story, though. Also, if the round hits where there is webbing between the water jacket and cylinder wall, it's gonna have alot more integrity and likely deflect the round.

But from the front of the vehicle, there's plenty in the way before you actually get to the engine block. Transverse mounted engines would be more susceptible, since the fan, water pump and other accesoiries are perpendicular to the front of the car. But you still have to get through grill/bumper, radiator, A/C condenser and, in most cases, a cast iron or steel exhaust manifold before you hit block.

Basically, there are no small arms that could be counted on to immediately stop an automobile engine with one or a few shots unless those shots are very carefully aimed and well exucuted by someone who knows the exact anatomy of that particular vehicle. Put that vehicle in motion and take away a stable shooting position (prone, bench, etc.) and the odds of success are drastically reduced.

And again, none of the hypothetical discussion of stopping the engine addresses stopping the vehicle. To do that with a projectile, it's gonna have to be Gustav or Dora, or a 16" battleship gun, etc. Even a 155mm long tom would not stop a passenger car in it's tracks.
 
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I you had to rely on one of these two combos to stop a vehicle bearing down, to save your life or that of a loved one, which would you choose to penetrate into the engine block and to the most damage, to try to disable it?

This has to be the silliest thread I've seen in a while. You're better off running for it. Just because you stop the engine doesn't mean the car stops. It takes a long time for a speeding car to slow down to ~10 MPH (at which point you can hopefully outrun it).
 
WEG in that 2nd video did he die? Video looks real.

Question why are we trying to shoot a car? shoot the driver its much easyer and the car will plow into a object not you.
 
As has been mentioned, there's really no way to reliably stop a speeding car, coming toward you, in a paved alley. The best you can hope for is to shoot the driver and hope that his body slumps in a way that the wheel is jerked far enough to one side to plow the car into one of the alley walls with enough force to stop it before it gets to you.
 
Between the two I would take a .45-70Govt. but load it with Woodleigh FMJ Solids (480gr.) or Barnes Banded Solids (450gr.)...but a 105x608mm would be best. :D
 
Sometimes I just dont get the reason for a post, even hypathetically (sic?).
If able to plan ahead, I would leave the family at home, and probably me too. I am thinking taking out a tire while tougher to do would have more immediate affect?
 
12 gauge slugs out of a Benelli M4 should be able to do the job fairly quickly..or a saiga 12 as previously mentioned.
 
I've shot a Dodge 5.9L V8 block with a .45-70. 300gr JFP handloads.

I was IMPRESSED to say the least. Penetrated the first two cylinders on the right side. Both pistons and rods were trashed. Block was cracked in three places. 4" x 4" chunk of the right side of the block was gone. Engine would have locked up instantly. The 540gr solids would do better.

I've never tried with the '06, but I would bet heavily on the .45-70.
 
My vote would be for the 45-70. While not having the penetration qualities of an AP round, it has much more energy.

I would rather blow a chunk off the engine block, or crack it as opposed to putting a 30 caliber hole in one.
 
My vote would be for the 45-70. While not having the penetration qualities of an AP round, it has much more energy.

a little perspective is in order


420-GR SUPER-HARD-CAST GAS-CHECKED HAMMERHEAD AT 1850-FPS

ENERGY: 3200 FT/LBS

1998 MERCURY GRAND MARQUIS AT 55-MPH

ENERGY: 404,494 FT/LBS

Which one wins? Remember stopping the engine WILL NOT stop the car
 
No hand held arm is going to work in this situation. Damage to the engine block with anything won't get the job done. Destroying the cooling system or even taking out the oil pump won't stop an engine (in the short term).
 
An engine is like an animal. It can continue to run when it shouldn't with many of it's vital components disabled.

about 10 years back i had a old chevy work truck that slung a rod out the side of the block about 2 miles from my house. when the motor let lose i killed it then pulled over & crawled under the truck to check it out. it had a rod out the side of the block. i thought since it was running when i when i turned it off i wonder if it will start back up. it fired back up & made it all the way into my driveway two miles away before it locked up. i hamered down on it too when i started geting close to my house just incase it didn't make it i could hopefully coast the rest of the way.

after doing that i think it would be pure luck to stop a moving vehicle with either of the rounds listed.
if i had to try to do it i would want a garand or a bar simply so i could put as many rounds into the engine as possible & maybe one of them would get lucky
 
The South Africans have a tungsten penetrator round for 12g shotguns. Unfortunately it's CQB only.. barely has a range of 50 yrds... let alone 200 yrds.

I seem to remember some military tests about bullet diameter and penetration. The results went a little like this...

Small diameter bullet (223-30cal) needed to be going pretty fast (in excess of 2800 fps) in order to achieve reasonable penetration against hard targets like engine blocks.

Larger diameter bullets needed alot of speed too (in excess of 2600 fps) in order to penetrate similar targets.

Bullet type would be a "then" generic Armor piercing round.

Personally I'd go with the biggest fastest round in my personal arsenal AFTER I ran like heck.
 
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