Which rifle and caliber should I consider?

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How about a surplus rifle lee enfield no 4 in .303 Brit.? The recoil is like a .30 30 and ammo is widely available online. Or get a m1 Garand in .3006.
 
I guess I voted for 30.06 a long time ago. It's available in a few more places than .308 and is slightly more powerful when you consider the max for each caliber. .308 is easier to get than when I bought my 30.06 many years ago I guess. I really never felt a need for another bolt action rifle in that caliber range. I'd like to have other rifles of course but I feel like I need other stuff more. I don't usually double up on a type of firearm without a good reason to do it. For example I keep more than one CCW pistol because i don't want to be without a working example. I do have a bunch of .22LR rifles but that has more to do with my plinking habits than anything else.
 
youll need to think your outlay in terns of what you can encounter.

the .300 blackout might be nice and cute now, but just does it really compare to what was needed in the real world/ The best thing to do is look at the village/city fighting that occuredin ww1 and ww2.

most of the time itll be short range. you need punch and fire power at the same time.
someone is shootig at you from a building, you have to get a bullet through the wall to get the attacker. and have bullet energy to get the attacker.

7.62x51 7.62x54r .308 30-06 8x57 get teh idea?
 
Cee Zee:

Using IMR 4350 powder, and a 165 grain projectile, the .30-06 can produce in the range of 3,140 to 3,150 FPS, with normal pressure. That's produces very nearly equal velocity, trajectory and energy to the .300 Win Mag. :D Nothing wrong with 06. Factory loadings is the problem, because so many manufacturers "dumb-down" the 06 for autoloading rifles. So, 30-06? Yeah. Good call, good option, especially if handloading.

Geno
 
Funny that you mentioned the M1A, Sunray. I just got back from my LGS and was looking at a Standard Walnut Stock M1A. I think I'm in love!

Buy it and you'll never want to shoot anything else you own any more.

I have two .308's, a Marlin XS7 bolt gun, which shoots very nicely, and a Springfield M1A Standard, and it feels like hitting a homer with a Louisville Slugger, compared to hitting a softball with a bent stick when shooting the Marlin. The M1A has practically no recoil when compared to a bolt gun, you can shoot all day and not feel beat up at the end.

You can't beat the .308 caliber for overall versatility. If you like the AR platform, buy or build an AR10. But since you have an AR (nice military-style rifle that's basically a semi M16), get the rifle the M16 replaced, the M14 (or M1A). You'll have a rifle that will not ever lose value, is among the best built rifles you can buy, and can be accurized to the nth degree, although the Standard will shoot 1.5 MOA all day long right out of the box.
 
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When there was talk of food shortage during the early part of the ammo shortage you could get 30-06 everywhere. The cheapest 06 from walmart with the cheapest scope you could buy is a 300yd 1 shot kill on a deer all day long. With that being said I would buy a nice 30-06 with a pretty decent 3x9. I would put quality base and rings on it, sight it in and put it up somewhere safe. Whenever you got a spare $20 hoard another box of shells for it. If all hell breaks loose you have a meat getter as well as a sniper rifle. With 30-06 you don't have to be a sniper to be a sniper.
 
I think that you need to buy another AR15, maybe a SPR. Two is one and one is none. Next option to consider is 6.8SPC, still lightweight to carry, recoil only slightly more than 5.56 with better terminal performance.
 
Take a look at Ruger's SR762.

Or, like Guilty said look at the 6.8 SPC, or a 6.5 Grendel, or a 300BLK. You can buy/build the upper and stick it on your present AR lower, without any paperwork. You won't notice the difference in recoil, the buffer will take care of that.
 
I'll be different. Not surprisingly, a lot of people are saying 308. You've even got a couple 30-06 and at least one 30-30 in the mix. I'm going to assume you already have a bolt action 22 LR. If you don't I'm going to suggest you get one of those first. Doesn't have to be a top shelf gun--just get a Marlin. It's a hell of a lot cheaper than anything else you'd get in center fire cartridges, and even with ammo shortage, cheaper to feed when you can find a brick. Bolt action does not waste ammo and is accurate. Take the rest of the money you'd have spent and get a couple bricks. It's the last rifle they'll confiscate, has the same recoil as a bb gun, but will go through a 2x4 edgeways. Yes, a properly placed shot from one with 25 - 100 yards will kill nearly anything. In time of war (WROL), economic hardship (you might have to hunt out of season), etc, it's one of the most quiet. Meaning getting meat is easier. As for money spent practicing for basic accuracy, you still can't beat it.

If you've already got one of those, my next pick is a pump action 12 or 20 guage with screw in chokes and replaceable barrels. The gun will literally hunt everything with a long barrel. Get one with shotgun barrel and a slug barrel, then you have an instant 50 caliber or larger rifle for big stuff within 100 yards or so and a small game gun. My pick: Rem. 870.

If that's covered too, only then I suggest a bolt action 308 or 30-06. I like the 308 for less felt recoil. I like the 30-06 because you have 110 years of reloading data to draw from, and a wider range of reloading options. Ammo for both is plentiful enough for now, but learn to reload. As for the brand--your wallet is your limit. Savage is an accurate rifle. Remington 700 is too and can be customized as much as you can afford. Both can be made into long range match rifles, but a guy who does it regularly tells me he likes the Rem 700. I used to love my old Ruger M77, but their quality tanked--at least that's the impression I get holding one. Now I have a Browning.
 
Years ago, a fellow in Argentina wrote a paper on what circumstances were like there after one of their economic collapses. Sanitation was poor, disease rates were much higher, and the law enforcement system pretty much collapsed. Electricity was intermittently available, and parents would never let their children ride a bicycle, because someone would surely hurt them and steal the bike.

His comment was that you definitely need to carry a handgun to work, and you need a handgun to protect your home. But, he also said that your adversaries are not labeled so that you can identify them at 200 yards. You don't know that they are trouble until they are a few feet away. His suggestion was that in an economic collapse, your first need is a handgun. A rifle is very useful, but secondary. That's contrary to advice you often see elsewhere.

Personally, I don't worry much about that kind of thing. I have firearms that I enjoy shooting. Some are suitable for big game, some are suitable for clay pigeons, some are fun for shooting steel plates, and some are just fun to shoot. If some of those fill a self or home defense role, that's a nice bonus.

Whatever you do, I suggest that you get something you enjoy shooting enough that you take it to the range and shoot it a lot.
 
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Buy a Sig 716, I have the DMR its 18" match barrel, Geisle 2 stage trigger, piston driven tack driver, No FTF or FTE it eats what ever I feed it less than 1/2" moa if I do my part. The patrol is on the cheaper side then 3-gun then the DMR
You will not regret this purchase, It is a 1-10 twist, It is the best rifle out there for the money, IMO
There are more expensive rifles, The LWRC or Knights, or Larue, LMT is also nice it depends on what you can afford a Sig for 1700- 2400 is a good choice. Im happy
 
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