Who here gets their gun(s) re-blued?
- Thread starter frez
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How long it takes to wear off the original blue depends on how you use, carry and handle the gun. If the blue is damaged, rust and lack of care is more often the cause. Cold blue doesn't wear well, and generally has a flat look. This is not a good way to go when refinishing a whole gun.
The quality of a hot-blue job depends on how well the metal is polished before blueing, and the polishing job can improve the looks, or totally destroy them. If the cost is expensive, it's probably because of the way the polishing will be done. Is it worth it? Depends on what the gun is, and how you feel about it. You can sometimes reduce the cost of bluing if you do your own polishing - or at least most of it.
The quality of a hot-blue job depends on how well the metal is polished before blueing, and the polishing job can improve the looks, or totally destroy them. If the cost is expensive, it's probably because of the way the polishing will be done. Is it worth it? Depends on what the gun is, and how you feel about it. You can sometimes reduce the cost of bluing if you do your own polishing - or at least most of it.
mrmeval
Member
I 'warm blued' a shotgun with Birchwood Casey. It then sat in a closet for about 10 years. I recently retrieved it and only found slight rust where it had been touched when moved. I'm reasonably sure it was the CLP and not the bluing that protected it.
The bluing looks completely black now. I either neglected to clean the solution off or it aged somehow.
The bluing looks completely black now. I either neglected to clean the solution off or it aged somehow.
It depends on the gun. If it's a gun that gets carried or used a lot, I either consider the wear to be part of the character, or I might touch it up occasionally with cold blue just for looks. If it's a concealed carry gun, I tend to prefer using Duracoat on it for protection. I've had a few guns reblued over the years, but I usually reserve that for fancier guns that I like to keep looking sharp.
MWenzel
Member
I would avoid re-blueing a gun at all cost! I would only do this if this is my last choice. Re-blueing a gun decreases the value of the gun I have heard.
ken w.
Member
I have sent quite a few guns to get reblued.In some cases,a faded wore gun is worth more than a reblued one.But,if you are going to use it and want to really protect it and want it to look better then have it reblued.I guess you have to ask yourself-is it a collector or a shooter.
If the gun is a shooter
And you like it, but it has no historical value... go right a head and get it reblued. As others have said, most of the cost of a reblue is polishing.
Just enjoy your shooters and respect the guns that have historical value.
And you like it, but it has no historical value... go right a head and get it reblued. As others have said, most of the cost of a reblue is polishing.
Just enjoy your shooters and respect the guns that have historical value.
MountainBear
Member
I suppose I am biased, but if its your gun, do whatever you want to it. Don't listen to other people who say oh no, it will kill the value if you reblue it. If its yours and you don't buy guns just to sell them, then do what you want.
Now onto the question at hand. Cold blue is meant as a touch up when you screw up a hot blue job, not as a full finish. I know its expensive, but if your like me and want your guns to be in good shape for your children, grandchildren, etc., then have it professionally done.
The polish is the labor intensive part, as the blueing itself mainly consists of knowing how long to leave it in each tank. If you want a matte finish, get it bead blasted. If you want it slightly glossy, but still not blindingly so, get a 400 grit polish, If you want a mirror finish (and I don't know why anyone would, but like I said before, they are your guns), get a matchless finish.
Some people will advertise a 320 grit finish, but I think its not worth the difference between it and a beadblasted finish.
As for myself, I like my hunting guns beadblasted and blued. No glare, and I find it to be durable.
I have not yet tried this, but I have heard people parkerizing their guns and then having a finish applied over the top of it (i.e. robar, duracoat, etc.)
I know this was a long convoluted answer with information you probably didn't ask for, but I hope it helped.
Now onto the question at hand. Cold blue is meant as a touch up when you screw up a hot blue job, not as a full finish. I know its expensive, but if your like me and want your guns to be in good shape for your children, grandchildren, etc., then have it professionally done.
The polish is the labor intensive part, as the blueing itself mainly consists of knowing how long to leave it in each tank. If you want a matte finish, get it bead blasted. If you want it slightly glossy, but still not blindingly so, get a 400 grit polish, If you want a mirror finish (and I don't know why anyone would, but like I said before, they are your guns), get a matchless finish.
Some people will advertise a 320 grit finish, but I think its not worth the difference between it and a beadblasted finish.
As for myself, I like my hunting guns beadblasted and blued. No glare, and I find it to be durable.
I have not yet tried this, but I have heard people parkerizing their guns and then having a finish applied over the top of it (i.e. robar, duracoat, etc.)
I know this was a long convoluted answer with information you probably didn't ask for, but I hope it helped.
timn
Member
"I would avoid re-blueing a gun at all cost! I would only do this if this is my last choice. Re-blueing a gun decreases the value of the gun I have heard."
That would depend on the gun. I re-finish lots of old guns, including early Win 94's,55's, etc. There is a vast difference between the " desirable patina of age" and out and out rust and neglect. In many cases the value of the piece is enhanced.
I prefer blue guns. The blue shows the skill and care of the polisher and, done right, is the most beautiful finish, imho.
If you care to do the polishing yourself, most shops that do blueing will dip it fairly inexpensively. However, if you don't know how to polish a revolver, you can ruin it. Very little is done with wheels, buffers, and spinners. It's mostly hand work and patience.
If you want more info about re-doing your pistol, IM me and I'll be glad to answer all your questions.
That would depend on the gun. I re-finish lots of old guns, including early Win 94's,55's, etc. There is a vast difference between the " desirable patina of age" and out and out rust and neglect. In many cases the value of the piece is enhanced.
I prefer blue guns. The blue shows the skill and care of the polisher and, done right, is the most beautiful finish, imho.
If you care to do the polishing yourself, most shops that do blueing will dip it fairly inexpensively. However, if you don't know how to polish a revolver, you can ruin it. Very little is done with wheels, buffers, and spinners. It's mostly hand work and patience.
If you want more info about re-doing your pistol, IM me and I'll be glad to answer all your questions.
grendelbane
Member
A blued finish is pretty, but does not offer much in the way of protection.
Wax will provide more protection, and used to be recommended quite often. People still wax their cars, but for some reason, not their guns.
I don't mind an honestly worn blue finish, but some people think differently.
Wax will provide more protection, and used to be recommended quite often. People still wax their cars, but for some reason, not their guns.
I don't mind an honestly worn blue finish, but some people think differently.
qajaq59
Member
That's an interesting point.
When my son was stationed in Alaska he sent me some liquid wax in what smelled like a petroleum product for use on the shotgun I used for ducks out in the salt marshes. I never really knew the name of it, but it really protected my shotgun.
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