Whoa, is this revo unsafe to carry hammer-down on live? (FIE Standard)

[MatthewVanitas]

Follow-up on my $35 pawnshop special.

Gun in question is an FIE Standard: solid-steel DA snubnose in .38 Spl. Cylinder pin is pulled and whole cylinder removed for reloading, like NAA mini. U.S. made by FIE after their imports were blocked by the '68 GCA.


So, I look over this revo, and notice that the firing pin stays protruded when the hammer is down. Cocked the hammer back, firing pin recedes into frame, but can be pushed back into engagement by any object (ballpoint pen, etc). I checked my Ruger and S&W DAs, and they clearly do not operate like that.

It seems to me that, when the hammer is down, the firing pin is protruding, and would rest on the primer of a live round. So, I take it this revolver should not be carried hammer-down on a live round?

If so, that would explain the little window in the recoil shield: there's a small hole in the recoil shield that allows you to see into the chamber which is in the 10 o'clock position. Would the purpose of this be to aid in "cowboy loading"? i.e.: you load five rounds, line up the cylinder so that the empty chamber is under the window, then dry-fire (or thumb-decock) once to get the empty chamber under the hammer?

Very weird manual of arms. But it's solid steel, .38 Spl, and cost me $35. Just wanted to make sure I know how to use it safely.

-MV

 

[Jim March]

Oh man! It sure looks that way. OR the hammer-block mechanism is broken inside...that's actually more likely come to think.

Hammer-block guns are as safe as transfer bars except that if they fail, the gun reverts to "1873 Colt SAA safety" (meaning there ain't none). If a transfer bar breaks, the gun reverts to "doorstop" (no go bang).

S&W hammer blocks almost never break and if made post-WW2 almost never fail (engineering change around that time due to a wartime accident with the early design).

You ought to detail-strip it. If there's a loose bit of metal in there it may start rattling around and gum up the works.

 

[White Horseradish]

Oh wow! Someone else has this exact gun!

I got ripped off. Mine cost me $36.

MV, could you do me a favor? My FIE seems to be missing the cylinder pin catch. Could you describe it, or post a picture?

As to your question, I just checked my Standard. The firing pin does not protrude with hammer down. It can be pushed out with a pen when it's cocked, otherwise it behaves like an S&W hammer block.

Looks like yours is broken...


PS Been wondering about that hole myself...

 

[MatthewVanitas]

Huh, it really doesn't look broken. When I cock the hammer and gaze down into the slot, I don't see anything resembling the hammer block on my Ruger, nor any broken or rough area where it might have been.

It'd be a bugger to detail strip, I believe, since it's a solid frame. Has no sideplate or seam, just a solid chunk of metal with some spots hollowed out to put in a couple springs.

@Horseradish: Uzhe uvideli moi drugoi post? My previous post has a good pic, is that the exact same model as what you have, best as you can tell?

IRT cylinder catch: on mine, it's two pins, slightly thinner than a thin soda-straw, and about 1/3" long. They both have a slot-screw head on one end, and one is female and one is male. They mate together with a spring between them, and engage a detent on the cylinder pin. Numrich doesn't seem to carry parts for this gun, but Bob's Gun Parts has a bunch of spares for the FIE/Regent/Arminius line.

Now I'm curious as to whether mine is broken, or whether some earlier models had no hammer block. Serial on mine is ST357XX, is yours earlier or later?

-MV

 

[Jim March]

Rugers don't have hammer blocks. Not ANY. They use transfer bars instead.

Hammerblock safeties are often "way down in there" where you can't see them.

Take it apart.

 

[White Horseradish]

Ok, I've looked up your other post. Spasibo.

One difference there is between our guns is that mine has a 4 inch barrel. The front sight was loose, I screwed it down, it's still loose. Perhaps it's because it is plastic. I might check and see if I can get a shotgun sight to fit - should be a hoot, that gun with a fiber optic front sight...

Re the hammer block - cock the hammer and look down. Mine has a shiny silver metal part inserted into the hammer - maybe that's it.

Re disassembly - I think it strips like a Charter Arms, you have to knock some pins out and the whole works will drop out.

Oh, and my serial is ST289XX

 

[White Horseradish]

Bummer. I dropped an e-mail to Bob's and they don't have any catches...

Anybody know where else I might look for parts to these?

 

[Jim March]

Dude, I think what you have there is a last-ditch 4-shot backup throwaway.

 

[White Horseradish]

No doubt. It's a 6-shot, though.

The only reason I bought it is that it's hard to resist a $36 revolver, plus it's a kind of a science project .

 

[MatthewVanitas]

Mine's good for five shots; looks like I'll be playing cowpoke. At least I don't have to half-cock.

Oh, Horseradish, I pulled ahead: Revo cost me $29.17 out the door. I ended up selling the guitar for $55 on Craigslist, so it shifted the balance of costs.


I think I just found the obvious solution to my lack of sights (besides just not using them). Maybe I can superglue a brass bead or nut onto the far end of my topstrap; that'll get me at least 2.5" or sight radius. Better than nothing, or isn't it?

-MV

 

[Jim March]

Have you actually shot this thing yet?

May I recommend the first session involve a bench vice and 50 yards of string?

 

[MatthewVanitas]

Have you actually shot this thing yet?

May I recommend the first session involve a bench five and 50 yards of string?

Whoa, harsh. Look at it this way, not many folks are injured by exploding Brycos (they tend to simply disintegrate harmlessly). This gun is made out of actual ferrous-like material.

On second thought, being made out of a more durable material might mean that it simply contains the blast until it reaches the point where it shatters steel.

Look, it's got to be better than an RG, right?

-MV

 

[White Horseradish]

I've shot mine once with light reloads. It gave me a pretty respectable group for a gun with a loose sight.

The cylinder and barrel are blued steel. The frame is alloy, but there are all sorts of alloy-framed wheelguns out there that work just fine. It is a one-piece frame, no sideplates, and no crane, so it's got to be pretty strong.

MV, is the barrel length original on yours?

 

[MatthewVanitas]

I'm certainly sticking with non-+P loads.

Barrel length appears original; crown is slightly dished, no signs of hacksaw. Has one little tiny hole with a flush filler screw in it, and larger screw behind that (presumably for front sight).

If the frontsight on WH's is just plastic junk, now I understand why mine is missing. Still think gluing a bead on the topstrap sounds easiest. It's the worst revolver I've got, but I'm curious to see if it's still decent.

-MV