Will a crimp prevent bullet jump/setback

[halfded]

Weighing out the pros and cons of gathering the necessary tools and materials to reload .38 special in addition to 45 colt. The gun I'll be loading for right now is an ultra-lite taurus 85.

I want to load lead bullets for practice, but I tried shooting lead bullets (factory loads) before and after the first round or two, had enough bullet jump to bind the cylinder. I don't remember what brand of ammo it was or if the bullet was crimped or not.

I was thinking that maybe a lighter load with a good crimp might allow me to shoot them without a problem.

 

[243winxb]

A crimp helps, but the brass case gripping the bearing surface of the bullet is what really matters. This is where a Hard cast bullet is better than soft factory swaged lead bullets. My S&W 337PD 38 spec. at 10oz has a warning not to shoot lead bullets as they can jump crimp. My standard and max. +P loadings do Not jump crimp with cast bullets. A light load should work fine.

 

[Dave P]

but the brass case gripping the bullet is what really matters


And that is why a tighter crimp will stop bullet jump. And if your bullets are moving in a low energy 38 special, you must have next to no crimp (or taper) at all.

 

[loadedround]

Bear in mind that using undersized lead bullets will cause bullet jump also even with correctly sized cases and crimped cases. Another good reason to slug your barrel before using or casting lead bullets.

 

[rcmodel]

but I tried shooting lead bullets (factory loads) before and after the first round or two, had enough bullet jump to bind the cylinder.

Some factory loads have very little crimp, and almost all use soft swaged bullets, and that might be your problem.

You should be able to apply a very heavy roll crimp to a cast bullet and keep it from pulling in anything.
But especially with light target loads, it should be a non-issue if properly roll-crimped into the crimp groove.

rc

 

[Drail]

The crimp will NOT stop bullet pull or setback. If you crimp tight enough it actually makes it worse. The case neck tension has to be tight enough to hold the bullet with no crimp at all. If you seat a bullet and are able to push it hard enough on your bench to detect any movement at all then your expander plug is too large or your bullet is undersized. You can turn down the diameter of the expander plug to 1.5 to 2 thous. under your bullet dia. Heavy crimping only serves to work harden the case mouth and make it brittle until it splits.

 

[Remo-99]

With most LSWC bullets they can be seated to a depth that allows a roll crimp to be formed over the bullets shoulder to prevent forward jump under recoil, but powder charges need to be reduced to compansate for the reduction in case capacity. (That's not an issue with lighter target loadings though.)

 

[ArchAngelCD]

halfded,
I've loaded way too many lead bullets for the .38 Special to count and I've never had a problem with a bullet jumping and locking the cylinder. A mild crimp into the crimp groove will be all you need to stop any possible problems in a .38 Special round, really...

Considering most .38 Special ammo is now going for ~$20 a box you will do very well to reload for it. I can still load up a box (50) of .38's for just over $4 and current prices. The guys who cast their own bullets can do 100 round for less than that. Because I have components I bought a while back I'm loading a box of 50 .38 Special DEWC ammo for only $3.35.

 

[pinkymingeo]

This is where the FCD shines. I shoot lead bullets in ultralight revolvers all the time without a problem.