Will polishing my internals hurt my guns?

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The reason I'm asking is because I own both a Saiga 12, and a Beretta nano. The saiga, doesn't like to cycle low brass due to the smaller charge. My thought is that by polishing and reducing friction, it may help with that.
Also, I have yet to shoot my nano but There have been reported issues with ftfs. I hav'nt shot mine yet so IDK but I cant help but think that polishing will only make everything smoother.
Is there a flaw in my logic?
Or is it generally good to go, in terms of polishing your internals?
 
Can't resist...lay off the Taco Bell if your polishing your internals. And generally yes polishing reduces friction which causes a smoother action. It doesn't always help though some guns just act funny when they get slicked up.
 
Depends on what you polish, how you polish, and how much you polish, generally.

If you know what you are doing, polishing can improve function in a poorly fit or finished gun for sure; but I expect more guns have been screwed up by overzealous polishing than just about anything else.
 
The Saiga, specifically, should benefit greatly from polishing. Especially if you know how to appropriately re-shape the hammer. Mine runs perfectly on everything after I went through the internals.

In general, polishing should smooth out the action on virtually any gun. However, some don't need it and you need to be careful about knowing what you are doing when you get to potential safety issues like sear surfaces and angles.
 
Also worth noting is knowing the surface and or coating you are polishing. I've heard nightmares of feed ramps being polished to improve feeding only to have them wear away within a few hundred rounds later. Problem being there was a coating or they were surface hardened, that layer was removed in polishing leading to accelerated wear.
 
You will need:
1. A Dremel Tool & buffing compound.
2. A sharp knife or scissors.
3. A small trash can.

A. Take #2, and cut the wire off #1.
B. Then place #1 & the wire, & the buffing compound in #3.
C. You can keep #2 & #3 for other uses later.
Just not #2.

Only then?
Take the two new guns out and shoot the crap out of them.
Clean, re-lube, and do it some more.

Only then will you know if they need any further 'polishing' internally, or not.

If it ain't Broke?
Don't Fix it!


I can tell you this though.
As stated in post #5:

More good guns have been screwed up & ruined by people polishing things they didn't understand then by all other reasons combined.

Rc
 
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For your Saiga

There is a Spring to be changed and it It will cycle low base cartridges reliably. No polishing is required.
 
Yeah, I have seen this idea go both ways.

I have personally seen guns rendered useless by people trying to "Fluff And Buff".

There are lots of little things about a gun that really have to be a certain way if they are to be expected to work as designed. The feed ramp in a 1911 .45 auto is a prime example of this. The size, shape, and angle of that feed ramp was very carefully designed by a man that most educated folks consider to be a genius. (John Browning)

Thinking that a person who has to ask "Will it hurt it?" on the internet is going to improve on That Inspired Design by removing metal and resizing, reshaping, and relocating it is a bit silly, isn't it?

Why don't we just re-write some of those old Edgar Allen Poe stories while we're at it, huh? Surely we can make those better too!

Of course, the other side of the story happens some times.

I have a Ruger Speed Six. That pistol has a frame that was made as a casting. The whole point behind that idea is to reduce cost by eliminating hand labor required to build the pistol.

So, there was this ridge on the rear of the frame that caused the lock to bind when you pushed the cylinder into the frame after loading the pistol.

If you pushed on the release button as you closed it, it operated smoothly, but it was difficult to close otherwise.

I carefully smoothed that ridge and now the cylinder opens and closes slick as butter.

So, Yes... sometimes grinding on a gun is a good thing.

BUT

It needs to be done by somebody that knows exactly why and exactly where and exactly how to go about improving the gun.

Of course, we are talking about YOUR gun, so do with it as you please.

Just think first and make sure of what you are doing because taking metal of is easy but putting it back on is not.
 
Depends on what you are polishing. Polished feed ramp and chamber ramp on P08 luger and chamber ramp on Sterling SMG and now they feed any hollowpoint 50gr to 158gr in 9mm reliably, where it wasn't the case before.
 
imo, dont use any power tools just some flitz and cleaning patches.
would be pretty tough to mess up your gun this way
don't polish a gun you havent fired yet
you could also do it the old fashioned way, by firing the snot out of it.
 
Well, I'd turn the adjustable gas plug before going inside the Saiga... and I'd send the nano back to Beretta if it doesn't run well. I certainly would not mess with it before ever firing it!
 
Can't resist...lay off the Taco Bell if your polishing your internals. And generally yes polishing reduces friction which causes a smoother action. It doesn't always help though some guns just act funny when they get slicked up.
LOL.
I was thinking:

Polishing your internals? Sounds kind of harsh, I wouldnt if I were you!
 
Well with the AK platform, I cannot see any harm in polishing rough surfaces as long as one is doing so with a fairly non-aggressive medium...and doing it slowly and carefully. Don't fire up a dremel tool with one of those course sanding drums:eek:

On a lot of other guns, that advice may not be good. A gun with close tolerances may not work or become dangerous if those tolerances are changed. This is particularly true with aggressive trigger jobs.
 
I'm not sure what a low charge is, but I don't think the AK is well suited for a softer or low velocity ammo. Sounds like an ammo problem, not a gun problem.

I'd be wary of polishing heat treatment off of parts.
 
Can't resist...lay off the Taco Bell if your polishing your internals.

Actually, I think you need to eat Polish sausage to properly polish (errr, Polish) your insides.
 
Send your saiga bolt and carrier out to someone who offers a polishing and reprofile service if you don't think you can do it yourself, not Pauly though as he stole a bunch of people's carriers. Don't listen to anyone who says leave it alone unless you're ok shooting only buck and slugs, this isn't grandpas 870 and was never intended to cycle weak American target loads so it will take a bit of work to get it to run with those loads. The other gun, if it functions don't mess with it, it will smoothe out with use.
 
Where are people getting AK from? Also when the OP refers to 'low brass' shotgun shells I think he is just referencing that they are lower power target rounds instead of high brass full power rounds, all being factory and not having anything to do with reloading.
 
Just my two cents, but based upon the questions the OP is asking, I recommend he not try any home gunsmithing. I don't think merely polishing the internals is going to make a difference.

If your intention is to be able to fire/reliably eject underpowered rounds, maybe you should start with changing springs. Just be sure to change them back if you go back to firing full charge loads.
 
Before I started "polishing" I would make certain the gas system is fully clean and open and play with lighter springs. A Saiga doesn't need to be "polished" to run 100% You just need a little less cowbell (spring) for your light loads. If the loads are too light for the spring and gas setting then "polishing" the internals wouldn't help and you just might "over polish" something and cause more problems. If you can find a detailed manual for that gun buy one and read it.
 
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