Wilson combat flatwire recoil spring

[MidRoad]

Hi folks,I ordered the wilson combat flat wire kit for my sr1911. New to 1911s and read good reviews on the wilson kit,qnd like the thought of spring longevity,so I ordered one.

However after i ordered it I read that a 17lb flat wire is equal to a 14-15 lb regular spring. I don't plan on running a shok buff and now I'm concerned that the 17lb spring will be too light. I plan on shooting lots of standard 230gr ammo,with the occasional +p . I'm second guessing myself and don't want to damage my pistol. Everything else is factory spec in the pistol .Anyone have personal experience with the 17lb flat wire in a sr1911? Should i order a 20lb flatwire as well?

 

[Steve S.]

I would try and duplicate the spring specs of the original spring; I do not think that the reduced poundage of your new spring will reduce function but “it may” be harder on the gun over the long haul (meaning many thousands of rounds of the 230 grain). If just to simply rid you of the nagging worry, I would get a matching spec flat spring and then shoot away (knowing that is easy to say and not knowing the investment of time/ money to obtain a different spring). That is what my mind would tell me to do but I am cursed with the “Anal Disease”. Good luck.

 

[MidRoad]

I would try and duplicate the spring specs of the original spring; I do not think that the reduced poundage of your new spring will reduce function but “it may” be harder on the gun over the long haul (meaning many thousands of rounds of the 230 grain). If just to simply rid you of the nagging worry, I would get a matching spec flat spring and then shoot away (knowing that is easy to say and not knowing the investment of time/ money to obtain a different spring). That is what my mind would tell me to do but I am cursed with the “Anal Disease”. Good luck.

I did alot more forum reading and general consensus is the 20lb flat wire is about equal to an 18lb round wire. Ruger uses a 18lb spring from the factory. So canceled my order for the 17 and ordered the 20lb spring.

 

[RainDodger]

Won't Wilson tell you which one you should use to replace a stock one? After all, they're selling them as replacements.

 

[MidRoad]

Anybody run these in their 1911's?

Won't Wilson tell you which one you should use to replace a stock one? After all, they're selling them as replacements.

Based on their thoughts on "power factor" from their website 230 great running 850 fps would be better off with the 20lb spring.

Idk ordered the 20lber ,anyone run flatwire in their 1911's

 

[Tallarico]

I ran a 19 pound flat wire in my 5inch 1911. It ran fine with no failures, but I returned to my regular 18.5 spring. It just felt too light.

 

[MidRoad]

I ran a 19 pound flat wire in my 5inch 1911. It ran fine with no failures, but I returned to my regular 18.5 spring. It just felt too light.

Thanks,nice to have first hand input

 

[MidRoad]

Have only shot a few mags with the flatwire so far so good. Still would like to hear more first hand experiences.

 

[Jim Watson]

I have pre-Wilson flatwire (actual Glock springs) in my shortened GM and OACP.
Very valuable there. Have not tried in a 5".

 

[Ramone]

I have this, along with a reduced radius FPS, in my Colt Officers Model:

http://www.egwguns.com/1911-parts/officers-guide-rod-spring-kit-w/clark-plug-ss/

It's a tremendous improvement compared to stock.

I would not use a buffer under any circumstances.

 

[JDR]

I have the 14lb Wilson Combat flatwire recoil spring in my 9mm STI Trojan 1911. I don’t use a shock buffer. I also use this spring with the #25GRFW Wilson Combat full length guide rod & plug that is made for the flatwire spring;

https://shopwilsoncombat.com/mobile...ll-Size-Flat-Wire/productinfo/25GRFW/#reviews

I HIGHLY recommend the full length #25GRFW flatwire guiderod & plug over the G.I. length guiderod that comes with the flatwire recoil spring kit. The slide cycles noticeably smoother with every 9mm load I have used with it. The gun is 100% with 115gr loads and I would never shoot 115 grain loads in this gun before this upgrade. I think this is a great upgrade for a 9mm 1911. I know a guy who uses the 17lb flatwire spring with the #25GRFW full length guiderod & plug in a Springfield TRP Operator, and he does use a shock buffer in that gun.

 

[RA40]

I've been using the Wilson #614 kit in my Springfield without the buff installed. I'm in the neighborhood of ~3K on that spring. A bit better slide smoothness though not night day difference.

https://shopwilsoncombat.com/Flat-W...-45-ACP-Chrome-Silicon-17-Lb/productinfo/614/

Recommended Use: Full-Size 5" .45 ACP shooting 230 gr. hardball equivalent or standard pressure JHP self-defense ammunition with a power factor of 175,000 to 195,000 (Velocity x Bullet Weight = Power Factor)

Can you relay where they state it is equal to a 14-15# spring?

 

[MidRoad]

I've been using the Wilson #614 kit in my Springfield without the buff installed. I'm in the neighborhood of ~3K on that spring. A bit better slide smoothness though not night day difference.

https://shopwilsoncombat.com/Flat-W...-45-ACP-Chrome-Silicon-17-Lb/productinfo/614/



Can you relay where they state it is equal to a 14-15# spring?

Wilson don't state it. I spent an accumlation of a few hours on the Google trying to figure out flatwire springs. A number of folks have hand tested bu measuring how much force it took to compress the springs and got ratings on avg of 2lbs less than the rating. All this is read ,not set in stone facts. There were claims that backed this info. For example a TRP that functioned well with it's factory spring (16lb i beleive) ,but the guy wanted to try flatwire springs. He had some issues with a 17lb, but it was flawless with the 20lber.

I have the 17lb and the 20 lb flatwire now. But have not had a chance to put many rounds down range. I put the factory spring back in for now because I know that it functions perfect and am not convinced about the flatwire. From my hand testing the 17lb flat wire cycles by hand easier than the 18lb Ruger spring. But he 20lb flatwire feels just about the same as the 18lb factory spring . The flatwire also springs sound funny when cycled by hand so it kinda creeps me out. Anyways I'm still looking for more first hand knowledge on them. They weren't expensive,so it's not much of a loss not using them. I still got a few thousand round before I need to replace thetfactory one anyways.

 

[RA40]

Appreciate the research. I don't want to be under sprung so took the Wilson description to be an equal to the round recoil spring version.

 

[JDR]

I took my 9mm STI Trojan 1911 out to the range Saturday and I shot 250 rounds of 115gr Fiocchi FMJ ammo through it and there is no doubt in my mind that the reliability and accuracy of this one is improved since I put in the WC flatwire recoil spring with the FLGR & plug.

 

[Walt Sherrill]

took my 9mm STI Trojan 1911 out to the range Saturday and I shot 250 rounds of 115gr Fiocchi FMJ ammo through it and there is no doubt in my mind that the reliability and accuracy of this one is improved since I put in the WC flatwire recoil spring with the FLGR & plug.

I wonder if the better results you're attributing to the different recoil spring (and/or guide rod) might just be the result of the luck of the draw -- i.e., getting a better lot/box of ammo this time than the last time out?

A different recoil spring (and/or a full-length guide rod combo) might feel smoother and might even be more reliable over the long term, but you really can't make claims about RELIABILITY after shooting only 250 rounds.

It's hard to see how either can have much affect on accuracy, either -- because if the spring and guide rod allow the gun to cycle and lock up properly with each shot, the bullet will leave the barrel before the slide has moved more than a fraction of an inch. That will be true regardless of the type of spring or guide rod (or combination of the two) used.

 

[JDR]

Well I actually have 550 rounds through it since I installed the WC flatwire recoil spring guiderod & plug, I put 300 rounds of Blazer Brass through it prior to the 250 rounds of Fiocchi that I just shot on Saturday . In the 3yrs.+ that I’ve owned it, the gun has never been more reliable and accurate with “better” ammo than it has since I installed the WC flatwire recoil spring guiderod & plug.

 

[Walt Sherrill]

What reliability issues were you having prior to the spring/guide rod change? I wouldn't expect "reliability" issues to pop up with any gun using a proper spring or guide rod until you've shot a lot more than 550 rounds.

You seem convinced that changing the spring and guide rod has improved your gun's accuracy, but I can think of NO theorhetical or practical ways that installing a new recoil spring assembly (spring and guide rod) could improve accuracy or reliability if the prior recoil spring assembly was functioning properly.

That's because, put simply, consistent lockup (barrel alignment with slide/sights) is what creates an accurate handgun, and lockup generally isn't affected if you're already using properly spec'd recoil spring or guide rod.. One gunsmith here or on The Firing Line has argued that with a poorly fit 1911, a stouter recoil spring COULD improve lockup a bit, but that was worst case -- and it doesn't sound like your gun would fall into that category.

I've also seen the results of a number of test of high-end 1911s, comparing standard to full-length guide rods, using Ransom Rests, and no differences in performance were seen. I've not seen any tests of different recoil springs and whether they can or do affect accuracy -- and I doubt that we will see such tests.

The recoil spring is there PRIMARILY to store enough force from the last shot fired to strip the next round off the magazine and chamber it. (I've often felt that the guide rod is there to make reassembly after a field strip a bit easier -- and full-length guide rods often make it a bit more difficult.

 

[Zaydok Allen]

What reliability issues were you having prior to the spring/guide rod change? I wouldn't expect "reliability" issues to pop up with any gun using a proper spring or guide rod until you've shot a lot more than 550 rounds.

You seem convinced that changing the spring and guide rod has improved your gun's accuracy, but I can think of NO theorhetical or practical ways that installing a new recoil spring assembly (spring and guide rod) could improve accuracy or reliability if the prior recoil spring assembly was functioning properly.

That's because, put simply, consistent lockup (barrel alignment with slide/sights) is what creates an accurate handgun, and lockup generally isn't affected if you're already using properly spec'd recoil spring or guide rod.. One gunsmith here or on The Firing Line has argued that with a poorly fit 1911, a stouter recoil spring COULD improve lockup a bit, but that was worst case -- and it doesn't sound like your gun would fall into that category.

I've also seen the results of a number of test of high-end 1911s, comparing standard to full-length guide rods, using Ransom Rests, and no differences in performance were seen. I've not seen any tests of different recoil springs and whether they can or do affect accuracy -- and I doubt that we will see such tests.

The recoil spring is there PRIMARILY to store enough force from the last shot fired to strip the next round off the magazine and chamber it. (I've often felt that the guide rod is there to make reassembly after a field strip a bit easier -- and full-length guide rods often make it a bit more difficult.

Didn't Sam1911 or 1911Tunner post a video of themselves shooting a 1911 with no recoil spring at all repeatedly, and no damage was detected, and there was no downside to accuracy? I seem to recall those posts from 3 or 4 years ago.

 

[JDR]

B53B3F18-05E2-481B-AA02-388FCD739DB9

• JDR
• Apr 16, 2018

25 rounds Fiocchi 115gr FMJ @10yds. from 9mm STI Trojan Sat 04/14/2018

Well here’s one of the targets from last Saturday’s range session, it’s not often that I can shoot the meatball out of one of these Dirty Bird targets from 10 yds. but I attribute it to that WC flatwire recoil spring & full length guide-rod in my STI Trojan