Xtreme Boxer primed steel 9mm cases?

[Shivahasagun]

I got some of this ammo, sold by Freedom Munitions, loaded with Xtreme plated bullets.

The cases are steel, boxer primed, and copper washed. Made by Xtreme.

Can they be reloaded, mildly, even once?

I assume a little lube on the case would help it slide in the dies, but otherwise, why not? Obviously, I don't want cases to rupture during firing. But is it really more likely an otherwise okay-looking used steel case will rupture than an okay-looking brass case?

 

[rfwobbly]

Yes, they can be reloaded. But you proabably won't like what it does to your dies.

 

[GeoDudeFlorida]

Given where copper prices are going, now would seem to be a good time to work up some loading data for washed/enameled steel cases. They may be more common than brass in a few years.

 

[Hooda Thunkit]

I read a magazine from the 1950s (well, a digital copy, anyway) in which was an article about this very thing.

They reloaded 45 ACP steel cases. They went 5 reloadings with zero problems. This was with the old style steel dies. They lubed before reloading, and had no stuck cases, no damages dies, no problems at all.

At the 5th loading they stopped; not because of problems, but because the point was made.

Keep in mind, steel is different than brass: steel softens with work, brass hardens. What difference it will make I don't know.

All that said, I have never reloaded steel cases. I have modified the powder charge in steel rifle cases and made Mexican Match, but never reloaded them after that shot (Berdan prime).

I have never reloaded steel case handgun ammo.

 

[Rule3]

I got some of this ammo, sold by Freedom Munitions, loaded with Xtreme plated bullets.

The cases are steel, boxer primed, and copper washed. Made by Xtreme.

Can they be reloaded, mildly, even once?

I assume a little lube on the case would help it slide in the dies, but otherwise, why not? Obviously, I don't want cases to rupture during firing. But is it really more likely an otherwise okay-looking used steel case will rupture than an okay-looking brass case?

Why bother reloading with steel cases? There are tons of brass cases out there
Yes it can be done and has been done, I wouldn't do it.

If you need 9mm brass I am sure I can part with some.

 

[mdi]

Yep, you can. But should you? I doubt if dies would be damaged and I've only read of one type of steel cased ammo being a problem in a particular type gun (lacquered steel cases in semi-auto rifles). But I stopped picking up plain 9mm brass a few years ago, it's so plentiful, and the only 9mm brass I've purchased was nickel plated (easier to spot in the dirt). I haven't gotten into the aspects of reloading steel cases, just no interest and I've got enough 9mm brass to last me many more years...

 

[Shivahasagun]

I considered picking up some of the large amounts of 9mm casings left at the range.

But it's a mix of ev-er-y-thing. I can pick up 12 pieces in 2 square feet and get perhaps two pairs of two that are alike. And those might be bulged or 20-times fired brass or its actually steel or all kinds of issues.

I was thinking I'd rather reload steel cases I know than a total mix of mystery brass.

Also, these cases being copper colored are easier to spot compared to other casings on the ground.

If I'm going to recover my own brass casings I'm going to have to bring a tarp, move it as I shoot from various distances, and much I'm just going to lose because I do plenty of shooting while moving.

Or, shoot more revolver and dump it in the bucket.

 

[Swampman]

Yes, they can be reloaded. But you proabably won't like what it does to your dies.

So the metal used in these cases is harder than tool steel AND carbide?

It's amazing that they're so (relatively) inexpensive...

 

[mdi]

FWIW, brass scrounging; As I aged I was shooting my 9mms less and less (4 pistols) as retrieving brass was getting tiresome especially after my stroke. I have a lot on 9mm components and the caliber has become one of my favorites, but just sitting in a cabinet. But I found my solution surfing the web one day and purchased a 9mm revolver, a Taurus 905. I'm using my pistol data/loads with moon clips and am having a ball. No more bending over or other stuff to pack/unpack and take to the range...

I have picked up a lot of 9mm cases at the range and have had zero problem with mixed brass. Several years ago I purchased about 300 "once fired" (used) cases and also no problems. If I were experimenting with a load I might sort cases by head stamp but for general target or SD loads, mixed, used cases worked well (I inspect every case before I reload it and discard questionable cases but find very few)...

 

[n2omike]

I considered picking up some of the large amounts of 9mm casings left at the range.

But it's a mix of ev-er-y-thing. I can pick up 12 pieces in 2 square feet and get perhaps two pairs of two that are alike. And those might be bulged or 20-times fired brass or its actually steel or all kinds of issues.

For shooting mild loads offhand in a pistol... mixed brass doesn't add up to squat. 99.9% of what you pick up will be once fired. Plus, straight walled pistol can be fired many times without issue. All of my 9mm is a wide mixture of brass. Shoots great.

 

[Nature Boy]

I considered picking up some of the large amounts of 9mm casings left at the range.

But it's a mix of ev-er-y-thing. I can pick up 12 pieces in 2 square feet and get perhaps two pairs of two that are alike. And those might be bulged or 20-times fired brass or its actually steel or all kinds of issues.

You have free brass casings there for the taking but are contemplating buying steel casings? That doesn’t make sense to me.

Grab all the free brass you can, clean it, inspect it, sort it by head stamp (if you want to), load it and shoot it.

If you’re wanting to make sure you can pick out your spent shells for retrieval get a FART and clean them to a jewelry-grade shine.

I sure as hell would do that before I went to steel. This isn’t the end times…….yet

 

[Shivahasagun]

Hm.

What I'm reading is a range with much brass on the ground is a blessing, not a curse.

And that after shooting I should just pick up everything that might be what I'm looking for, take it home, and sort it at my leisure.

Will give that a try.

 

[Nature Boy]

Hm.

What I'm reading is a range with much brass on the ground is a blessing, not a curse.

And that after shooting I should just pick up everything that might be what I'm looking for, take it home, and sort it at my leisure.

Will give that a try.

Absolutely

Your range sounds a lot like mine. Always brass on the ground. I usually leave with a little more than I started with. Free brass is what makes reloading economical

 

[Rule3]

Hm.

What I'm reading is a range with much brass on the ground is a blessing, not a curse.

And that after shooting I should just pick up everything that might be what I'm looking for, take it home, and sort it at my leisure.

Will give that a try.

A trick I learned years ago. If your range has several other people shooting near you. See what ammo they are using. Is it in factory boxes? Caliber you want? Then set up close to them and ask if you can pick up their brass.

I used to see people come with WalMart bags with ammo,, Oh man thy are blasting 45 acp. I need those.! Heck I had people stop by and dump brass at my spot.

Also, the brass that you do have , mark the bottom with a Sharpie (whatever color) then when you pick up you know its your brass.

 

[GeoDudeFlorida]

Okay, I'm not saying to do this but I am saying I used to do it: if your range does not have electric to the shooting area, get a 12V/DC-110V/AC converter and an extension cord that reaches from where you have to park to the firing line. Get a cheap shop vac. See where this is going? When you're done shooting, vacuum up ALL of the brass - grass, dirt, cig-butts and all - and sort/clean at your leisure at home. This is how people like me end up with more range brass than we can process in a lifetime.

 

[Shivahasagun]

A trick I learned years ago. If your range has several other people shooting near you. See what ammo they are using. Is it in factory boxes? Caliber you want? Then set up close to them and ask if you can pick up their brass.

I used to see people come with WalMart bags with ammo,, Oh man thy are blasting 45 acp. I need those.! Heck I had people stop by and dump brass at my spot.

Also, the brass that you do have , mark the bottom with a Sharpie (whatever color) then when you pick up you know its your brass.

At first I thought, "no way, I shoot every few weeks and 200-400 rds when I do!"

But then I figured new ammo I can mark across the bases as they are in the box. I can do that. Not sure that would happen with pick-up brass.

 

[rfwobbly]

So the metal used in these cases is harder than tool steel AND carbide?

Who said modern reloading dies were "tool steel" ??

Older dies are often hard. The carbide insert in the Sizing Die is hard. But moderns dies that I've worked with are common steel, proabably 'leaded steel' for easy machining. Pick up one of your "tool steel" dies and run a hand file across it. You may be surprised.

I read a magazine from the 1950s (well, a digital copy, anyway) in which was an article about this very thing. They reloaded 45 ACP steel cases. They went 5 reloadings with zero problems. This was with the old style steel dies. They lubed before reloading, and had no stuck cases, no damages dies, no problems at all. At the 5th loading they stopped; not because of problems, but because the point was made.

1) Dies were much higher quality back in the 1950's. Much, much better that they are today. I had occasion to make a "bulge buster" for my 38Specal reloading. I bought a single 1950's Bonanza brand die off Ebay and intended to bore it out on my lathe with carbide tipped boring tools. No go. There was no way to cut that die. I ended up buying a modern die at twice the price and had no cutting issues. So that specific test was conducted using dies of MUCH higher quality.

2) As a retired research engineer, I'm laughing at the thought that reloading 5 times can tell the modern reloader anything! Not only were the dies better made back then, but this was an age BEFORE the progressive press was available. And, this was a time BEFORE "action pistol" was invented. No sir, if you want to see if the modern reloader will have any trouble with their dies, I suggest you try reloading a number on the order of 500,000 cases !! So that specific test was conducted using a number of test cases MUCH lower than anyone reading this is using today.

Neither of these statements seem to have any validity.
.

 

[GeoDudeFlorida]

Who said modern reloading dies were "tool steel" ??

Older dies are often hard. The carbide insert in the Sizing Die is hard. But moderns dies that I've worked with are common steel, proabably 'leaded steel' for easy machining. Pick up one of your "tool steel" dies and run a hand file across it. You may be surprised.



1) Dies were much higher quality back in the 1950's. Much, much better that they are today. I had occasion to make a "bulge buster" for my 38Specal reloading. I bought a single 1950's Bonanza brand die off Ebay and intended to bore it out on my lathe with carbide tipped boring tools. No go. There was no way to cut that die. I ended up buying a modern die at twice the price and had no cutting issues. So that specific test was conducted using dies of MUCH higher quality.

2) As a retired research engineer, I'm laughing at the thought that reloading 5 times can tell the modern reloader anything! Not only were the dies better made back then, but this was an age BEFORE the progressive press was available. And, this was a time BEFORE "action pistol" was invented. No sir, if you want to see if the modern reloader will have any trouble with their dies, I suggest you try reloading a number on the order of 500,000 cases !! So that specific test was conducted using a number of test cases MUCH lower than anyone reading this is using today.

Neither of these statements seem to have any validity.
.

My observations are that most modern dies are some variety of inexpensive chrome-moly (like a 440-C, high-carbon chromium stainless). That stuff cuts like butter and is plenty hard enough for most applications. It anneals and welds beautifully. We used LOTS of 440-C in aerospace back in the day - mostly for line fittings. It's great for making high-pressure hydraulic fittings.