Yet Another First Handgun Question

[The Narrator]

Yeah, sorry, sorry. I thought I knew the answer and wouldn't need to post, but the endless "Yes we have no .22LR" song and dance has swirly-filed my plans.

I've fired a few, going back years. I haven't been able to own until just recently.

I have shot a S&W revolver like American private uniformed guards sometimes still use, a Springfield G.I., keltech PF9, and .357 Sig Glock, and a polish communist thing that looked like a .99[SUP]99[/SUP] store version of the Springfield. I think the revolver was a 10, the Sig was a 31, and I'm not sure about the other two. Oh, there was a Buck Mark but that's struck until bullets are found, and a CZ BD that felt great in hand but I could barely reach the trigger so boo CZ.

In the shops I have handled the S&W M&P, one of the XD things but there are so many versions I get confused, a Kimber Solo (which felt nice but maybe it is just dense), a PPS, and a few others, but nothing has jumped out at me as a 'got to own this' gun.

I can afford about $2500 but I would like to be able to get a Texus CHL, a holster, some extra clips, and maybe one of the passive aggressive gun themed tee-shirts as part of that. I would like it to be an all-around range/personal defense gun...I have never been hunting and would use a rifle for that, and I'm not ready to be like my friend who showed up at the range with a satchel of handguns that must've weighed 55lbs.

Help?

 

[Sam1911]

Hmmm... Lots of open ground there to go in any direction.

I know that it's hard to come up with really intelligent answers when you're new to the field, but did anything strike you about the different TYPES of guns you shot?

Revolvers are always a great choice, and you could have a terrific defensive sidearm that you'd never "grow out of" in a security company trade-in S&W Model 10, 64, 19, 66, or plenty of others. A 4" .38 or .38/.357 is a fine choice for carry and shooting joy. That is, so long as you like a good double-action trigger and 6 rounds at a time. Nothing wrong with that.

If you'd prefer an auto, do you feel more comfortable having a safety that you can (...that you MUST) click off to shoot and back on before you holster? (1911s, Hi-Powers, etc.)

Do you feel better with a very simple pistol that has only "passive" safeties so you simply draw and fire? (Glocks, xDs, M&Ps, Kahrs, etc.)

Do you think you could work with a pistol that has a trigger system that shifts from double-action to single action after the first shot? (SIGs, H&Ks, CZs, old S&Ws)

I'd say that's the first decision to make.


($2,500 will mean any common pistol choice is on the table, with ALL the extras.)

 

[Bezoar]

from what you write, until we know the criminalistic atmoshpere of your surroundings, id say get a revolver. good old fashioned adjustable sighted double action revolver. 357 magnum. and all the ammo you can get.

 

[RetiredUSNChief]

I can afford about $2500 but I would like to be able to get a Texus CHL, a holster, some extra clips, and maybe one of the passive aggressive gun themed tee-shirts as part of that. I would like it to be an all-around range/personal defense gun...I have never been hunting and would use a rifle for that, and I'm not ready to be like my friend who showed up at the range with a satchel of handguns that must've weighed 55lbs.

Help?

OK.

First piece of advice is to forget the "passive aggressive gun themed tee-shirts". Not necessary and, in my opinion, generally bad PR anyway.

Second piece of advice is this: find a caliber that YOU like and can afford which will meet your needs. Stated needs are for a "range/personal defense gun".

Paired with the caliber is this: Find a pistol/revolver that YOU like and which is comfortable for YOU to handle and shoot.

There are a lot of guns out there which are great looking...but great looking, while a valid factor in my opinion, takes second fiddle to how well it fits in your hand and how well it shoots for you. Bottom line is that if it's not comfortable for you to handle/shoot, then you won't want to shoot it...which means you WON'T shoot it. Nor will you carry it. That is counter productive.

Third thing is this: your purchase does NOT have to be your ONLY purchase. Find something that is comfortable to handle and shoot, has a caliber of ammunition that is suitable for range and carry, and is well within your budget. There are LOTS of choices out there that are WELL within a $2,500 budget. In fact, so much within that kind of budget that you could easily have enough left over to buy another later.


In terms of affordable calibers that are easy to find and are fairly affordable for pistols, the 9mm and .45 ACP are very well suited.

In terms of affordable calibers that are easy to find and are fairly affordable for revolvers, the .357 is very well suited because you can also shoot .38's.


In my opinion, you should apply the KISS principle...keep it simple. Don't go off the deep end with anything exotic or expensive. You can use the extra money left to buy yourself some decent accessories, such as a GOOD holster/belt, maybe some extra magazines, and (gasp) ammunition! (It would really suck to spend every nickle of your $2,500 budget on a gun and then not be able to afford to feed it.)

 

[RustyShackelford]

First handgun....

Many new or entry level gunners say; "hey, what should I buy first"?
In 2014, you have many, many choices or selections.
In general, Id start with a simple, robust stainless steel .357magnum or .38spl 5/6/7 shot DA or DA only(no spur, can only fire double action). You can learn the basics of safe gun use & marksmanship. Few people complain about the power of a .357magnum round or a .38spl + P load for personal defense.
You can buy a new Ruger GP100 in a 3" or 4" barrel. The DA only SP101 5 shot .357 snub is great(my first revolver in 1993). The limited ed Clapp GP revolver is outstanding if you want to buy it. I like the sights, fit & design.
The S&W model 66 or 686+ .357magnum can work. S&W offers a lifetime service plan & they have many fans/supporters. The stupid "lawyer lock" on the Smith and Wesson revolver frame is annoying but if you want extra security you can use it, .
If you really want a semi auto pistol & feel you can shoot-carry it, there are a few good striker fired/DA only models. A few pistols Id suggest for a new gun owner include; the SD9 or SD40, the Walther PPQ m2, the FNS in 9mm or .40S&W, the SIG Sauer P250, P226R/P229R DAK(double action Kellerman or DA only), the Glock 23 .40 in gen 03 or gen 04(the latest Glock format), the Glock 27 .40, the Ruger SR9 or SR40, the HK P30, P2000, USP in the LEM(law enforcement modification or DA only).
The P226R & P229R are very popular. The SIGs are in use by many sworn LE officers. The Glock 23 .40S&W used often by the FBI/DEA/ATF for new agents.
It's a good choice if you want to buy extra conversion barrels(9x19mm, .357sig, .22LR). Glocks have many after market holsters, sights, parts, etc.
You do not have to add a lot of custom features for a pistol to defend you. A good set of night sights, good grips & a few other tweeks is all you need.

Id suggest taking a few classes or training courses with a good school. Check references or see if the cadre is licensed. "War stories" or bogus claims should tip you off that the instructor is worthless or full of ___.
Id only use factory made, high quality loads for defense too. No reloads or hand loads. Some gunners feel they can make "great" rounds but Id stick with LE type handgun rounds.
Keep your firearm(s) clean too. Check them often & make sure they work correctly. You do not need a lot of CLP or cleaning products. Good brands for new shooters include; Frog Lube, Gunzilla, LPX, Ballistol, Slip2000, Eezox.

Id look into a legal aid plan or pre paid program like those offered by the NRA or the site: www.ccwsafe.com . CCWsafe is $99.00 per year and can help you if you get into a use of force event.

Rusty
www.nra.org www.handgunlaw.us www.gunlawguide.com www.gunsamerica.com www.ruger.com www.sigsauer.com www.glock.com www.trijicon.com www.galls.com www.gunzilla.us www.mpro7.com www.froglube.com www.midwayusa.com www.natchezss.com www.shopcorbon.com www.brownells.com

 

[sauer1911]

Go to your local indoor or outdoor range and get advice from the people who have experience with said guns.

After you get what you want, spend some good quality time getting good instruction on how to handle your weapon.

It would be unwise to just buy the gun and no instruction on proper handling and use. God forbid you ever have to use it, but you do need to know.

be safe.

 

[The Narrator]

I know that it's hard to come up with really intelligent answers when you're new to the field, but did anything strike you about the different TYPES of guns you shot?

I liked the feel of the G.I. but the way I was told to hold it hurt (even without shooting). Shooting it was really nice. The CZ was a joy to hold but the first shot finger reach was hard. The Glock...when I raised it and quickly tried to see the sights, I was looking at the top of the gun. Combine those three somehow and that's what I think I want.

Revolvers are always a great choice, and you could have a terrific defensive sidearm that you'd never "grow out of" in a security company trade-in S&W Model 10, 64, 19, 66, or plenty of others. A 4" .38 or .38/.357 is a fine choice for carry and shooting joy. That is, so long as you like a good double-action trigger and 6 rounds at a time. Nothing wrong with that.

The revolver I tried (I think my friend said it was a police turn-in model 10) was really big for what it did. It was comfortable and smooth and I shot it "well" but it wasn't, um, exciting? Maybe wrong way to choose but it wasn't exciting. I don't know how much of that was that it had been through the wards. I have dry fired a few other revolvers in shops (a "governor", and an itty bitty thing that didn't have a hammer). I think the old cowboy style revolvers are cool to look at but I don't think I want to pull the hammer back every time in a fight.

If you'd prefer an auto, do you feel more comfortable having a safety that you can (...that you MUST) click off to shoot and back on before you holster? (1911s, Hi-Powers, etc.)

Three of the autos I tried had a manual safety. With the "good one" (per the owner) I was told to ride my thumb up above it when shooting and it was awkward because when I had my thumb on top of the safety my hand didn't really push in against the plunger on the back. The safety jabbed my thumb in an uncomfortable way. Also, I had to be careful not to let my thumb drag on the slide. When everything lined up right it was a lot of fun to shoot. That was the Springfield G.I. I think it was the heaviest but it felt like the best quality too.

The Buck Mark was the same way but it didn't have the plunger in the back so it was more comfortable to hold with thumb above safety.

The polish thing...no comment.

Do you feel better with a very simple pistol that has only "passive" safeties so you simply draw and fire? (Glocks, xDs, M&Ps, Kahrs, etc.)

The glock I fired was like that. It makes me a little nervous, especially the idea of putting it into a holster when loaded, but that's probably just newb nerves. The Keltech was the same way but with a stiffer pull, but I didn't really like that gun (it was the least fun to shoot). What I didn't like about the Glock was how my wrist had to be held when firing. If I just raised the gun to eye level (same as I did with all the others) it was pointing up at the wood above the shooting bench.

Do you think you could work with a pistol that has a trigger system that shifts from double-action to single action after the first shot? (SIGs, H&Ks, CZs, old S&Ws)

Do you get something for that difference? The CZ I tried was that way and if my finger was longer it would be fine I guess, but it seems like it would be harder to shoot consistently.

I assume it is normal that the controls like magazine release and slide lock are out of reach unless you use your other hand or shift your grip?

($2,500 will mean any common pistol choice is on the table, with ALL the extras.)

That's good. My friend has been filling my ear with info about training classes that range from 4 hours for $100 on up, so anything I save on the gun will probably go to that.

There are a lot of guns out there which are great looking...but great looking, while a valid factor in my opinion, takes second fiddle to how well it fits in your hand and how well it shoots for you. Bottom line is that if it's not comfortable for you to handle/shoot, then you won't want to shoot it...which means you WON'T shoot it. Nor will you carry it. That is counter productive.

The more I think about it, the more true this seems to me. I don't know how much of the comfort or fit comes back to knowledge. As in, will something seem more comfortable when you have shot it 1000 times?

Many new or entry level gunners say; "hey, what should I buy first"?
In 2014, you have many, many choices or selections.

Lots of info! Thanks. Trying to wrap my head around it now.

 

[The Narrator]

Another dumb question:

I stopped by another shop at lunch and handled the, let's see if I got this right, XDS 4" 9mm. This was a 4" barrel gun so from the side it looked pretty much normal but it was skinny. One magazine makes a short handle for concealed carry, another a normal sized handle.

It seemed like it was really comfortable to hold. Of course I wasn't shooting it so maybe my opinion would change. Is this sort of thing suitable for an all-around gun? Or is it more for a dedicated concealed carry gun? It was the "just pull the trigger" style like a glock.

I was told to "buy once, cry once" by a friend but is that realistic? It seems like guns are all pretty specialized.

 

[Panzerschwein]

Well if you have $2500 to spend that's a good thing, but being new to all this I would recommend something...

Make an informed decision on the handgun you want to purchase, purchase it, and then use the rest of the money on ammo and proper training. I would not get a $2500 gun and not have any money for ammo or training!

My Dad is one of those people who pretty much just buys guns and never shoots them. He has a very nice "arsenal" if you will, but in the past couple years since he really got into shooting I can honestly say he's probably spent $5000 on guns and ammo... and has only shot MAYBE $100 worth of ammo!!! He very rarely actually goes out and shoots, and I find this very strange.

I on the other hand get guns I pretty much see that fills a role. I have a CCW pistol, a semi-auto rifle, a pump-shotgun, a full-power bolt-action rifle, and a semi-auto pistol. That pretty much it. I don't dump money into random guns and accessories I don't need. This IS NOT what makes a better shooter. Instead, I budget my money for ammo and make sure to go to the range AT LEAST once every two weeks, and I focus on getting better every time I go.

I'm not saying you planned to do that lol but if you want to be a good handgun shooter, buying an expensive or tricked out top of the line cutting edge pistol and not spending time or money on training is a recipe for failure.

Good luck in your journey!

 

[The Narrator]

Thanks Dill.

Most of the guns I'm looking at seem to be $400-600, a few more. The most expensive handgun I have looked at was a scadium frame auto for $1200ish, but I don't know enough to justify that level of spend.

The $2500 could all go to the gun with nuff cause, but everyone so far has told me I don't need that much. Which is good because I'd also like a CHL which adds up to about $250, and some accessories. I think "incidentals" (a little safe, a holster, better belts, starter ammo, CHL and so on) will add up to $1000 if I'm not savvy.

With a $600 pistol that would still leave $900 for training out of my budget. Plus I can pay for quite bit by skipping the bar trips w/ coworkers, so if training is fun I will keep going.

 

[Fiv3r]

Lots of good options out there. I wouldn't sweat not being too comfortable with the Glock or other passive safety firearms. Most folks new to handguns aren't ready to just work the slide, stuff it in a holster, and call it day. On top that, some people just never warm up to it. I include myself in that group, but that has more to do with having to holster, unholster, and store a "live" gun in my house with my 4 year old daughter. I like multiple levels of safety for that reason.

I usually carry a 5 shot Ruger SP101 in .357 most days. It's low capacity but very potent and incredibly stout. However, learning to shoot a snub nose takes lots of practice AND learning to shoot a snub nose firing .357 is not only a challenge but can be painful after awhile.

When it comes to semis, I gravitate toward hammer fired guns. I keep a big ol' Beretta 92fs in my truck, and an FNX-9 by my bed and sometimes on my belt. I like the FNX for a few reasons. Mostly because it can operate in a traditional DA/SA way meaning that it has a long trigger pull for the first shot and a decent single action there after. I sometimes have to go in and out of places with my job that require I leave my gun in my truck. I prefer a decocker for added safety since I am having to usually do this sitting and somewhat cramped. I also like that the safety, like the Beretta, deadens the trigger. When I store the gun chambered at home or camping with my daughter, I like multiple levels of manipulation before the gun fires. I'm totally fine with a hair trigger when it's on my person, but I would rather her have to get through a few barriers of safety.

However, I'm also a big fan of the 1911 and the crisp single action trigger. The FNX allows me to carry it cocked and locked as well. Basically, I can store the gun decocked and at the ready with a little added safety of the DA. I can carry it cocked and locked like a 1911 for a fast and accurate first shot and just decock it when I get home to store it for the night.

That said, there are a lot of good choices out there. Good luck

 

[RustyShackelford]

Walk before you run.....

Like many things, new gun owners or CCW license holders want to run before they walk.
As noted, to rent or shoot a few handguns first before buying would be very smart.
As posted too, Id start simple. Get a 5/6/7 shot DA revolver. Get used to shooting, loading-unloading, cleaning, security-storage, carrying etc.
Many US law enforcement & federal agencies issue "DA only" sidearms because they are safe & agents/LE officers can avoid or reduce the "you cocked the hammer" or "you were reckless" claims by some lawyers or prosecutors.
The LAPD calls DA only weapons; "neutered" but I've owned & used many DAO pistols over the last 25 years both on duty/security details & CCW.
Some gripe about DA only pistols having heavy trigger pulls or "not being accurate enough". That excuse is weak, IMO. A human being is 5' to 6'/6'04" tall & approx 2' thick. In a critical incident you are aiming center mass. You are not shooting at a match target 2" wide, 50 yards away.
A XDs 4" barrel is fine for carry or protection. You could buy one 6mo to a year from now too, once you learned the basics.

Rusty
PS: it's a bit off-topic but related to my post, I read a interesting book about a Hollywood screenwriter who splurged & purchased a brand new Ferrari sports car with a big paycheck.
He spun out of the Beverly Hills dealership & off he went. The writer never drove or owned a Ferrari before.
About 3 days later, he wrecked the vehicle & it was a total loss. The sales manager at the Ferrari lot said about 75% of new Ferrari owners have a traffic accident within the first 10 days of buying the cars.

 

[The Narrator]

That said, there are a lot of good choices out there. Good luck

A daunting number if you aren't really sure what the differences are in the real world/as an owner (vs borrowing or renting).

As noted, to rent or shoot a few handguns first before buying would be very smart.

I mentioned my friend who showed up with 55lbs of handguns. He is a coworker and up until recently I was a remote contractor. The first time I visited the "main office" he invited me shooting, and again whenever have been in town, so 6-8 times. The first trip I just shot Buck Mark and revolver. The last trip I have forgotten some of what he brought but I didn't shoot everything, it was just too much. He has also tried to give me tips along the way (thumb above safety, how to stand, and so on).

I am pretty sure I could suggest any type of pistol and he would bring it next time, but I don't want to mooch forever. So what sort of gun should I try?

I just don't see the revolver though. How is it better?

 

[huntsman]

If I wanted just one handgun it would be a Sig P250 with a full and subcompact sized frames in .45acp.

 

[Telekinesis]

"buy once, cry once" isn't the best analogy to use when pistol shopping. Of course stay with high quality guns, but a lot about pistols is personal preference and those preferences can amd will change with time. There's no perfect gun for every person in every situation. Buy something from a good manufacturer that is reliable and serviceable for your needs and you should be all right.

In general I'd stick with a compact pistol (Glock 19/Sig 229/Walther PPQ size). They're large enough that you can get a real grip on it and fire accurately, but small enough that it's not too much of a pain to carry it. As a general rule, the smaller the gun is, the more difficult it will be to shoot well (and the more recoil it will have).

The XDs you mentioned would be an ok gun, but you're right - it is designed more for a concealed carry role rather than a range or home defense gun. The XD design also has a grip safety like the 1911 you shot. The grip adapter is an ok way to go to be able to use longer magazines, but I've never really been a fan of them (which gets back to personal preference again)

In regards to the Glock pointing high, they actually have a bit different grip angle than a lot of other guns. The key to getting over that is focusing on lining up the sights and repetition. Eventually it will come on target naturally.

The DA/SA trigger found on Sigs and CZs (among lots of others) is a compromise so that you can have a nice and relatively light single action trigger without a manual safety. The first shot in double action is usually heavy enough to pass the "do I really want this gun to fire" test. That said, it's not so heavy as to inhibit firing. If you carry a gun with a DA/SA trigger, I'd recommend you practice the transition between the double action first shot and the single action for the remaining shots.

I personally wouldn't recommend a revolver for a first gun unless you were really drawn to them. Revolvers really shine in the magnum cartridge arena (and don't get me wrong, I love large bore revolvers) but for a defensive handgun, I'd recommend a semi-auto. More ammo on board, and much quicker reloads among other advantages.

Something else to keep in mind while shopping for a gun, look at the prices for replacement parts (springs, night sights), mags, and holsters. If you're using something for defense and taking classes with it (and putting a lot of rounds down range) these things will matter more. For example a mag for my Glock 19 will run around $20-25, while a mag for my HK P7M8 will run about $60+. Not too big of a deal if you only want one or two, but if you're taking a shooting class that wants you to have more than 6 mags, it can get expensive. Same thing with springs and holsters, Glock holsters are everywhere, P7 holsters not so much.

Lastly, good luck in your search. And remember, this will be your first gun, but it doesn't have to be your last. Don't worry about it being absolutely perfect for every conceivable situation, just get out and have fun shooting and the rest will sort itself out later

 

[JohnBiltz]

OK, don't get hung up on buying the perfect gun the first time because you probably won't. You don't know what you want so how can you fulfill a desire you don't understand.

If you liked the Glock but did not like the way it points then I'd suggest a S&W M&P. The Glock has a different grip angle than is common. This issue will almost certainly go away as you shoot it but if it bothers you get the M&P.

I'd suggest planning on getting two guns; one for the range/home defense and one for carry if you go that way. So when you buy your first gun see if there is a smaller version that could work as a carry gun by the same manufacturer so if you like that gun you could try the other for carry. That way more of what you have learned practicing can carry over to your carry. Examples would be a Glock 17 and a Glock 26, S&W M&P and the Shield, Springfield Armory has double stacks and small single stacks.

I'd suggest keep it simple and get 9mm. You want to put a lot of time in practicing and 9mm is just the cheapest ammo to buy. So to break it down, $1,200 for two guns. 2,000 rounds of 9mm is going to cost around $550. Your going to want some good hollow points for self defense but you really don't need a lot of them. Gold Dots can be had about $50 for a 100 rounds and that will do for some time. $80 for your first good holster for carry. You will end up buying more holsters, its addictive but it will get you started. Your going to want more magazines. Finally you want to get some training from someone who knows what he is doing.

 

[RustyShackelford]

Revolvers vs DA pistols....

A simple stainless DA/SA or DA only revolver would be better because you'd learn the basics. There are no levers/buttons/controls like a semi auto pistol, you only get 5/6 rounds not 15-30 , stainless is rust proof & easy to clean, use in bad weather, the DA revolver trigger pull is steady compared to a pistol's TDA(traditional double action which converts to single action).
You could buy a simple DA pistol like SD9/SD40 or the Glock but many instructors & cadre suggest new firearm owners start with a revolver.

 

[JohnBiltz]

I just don't see the revolver though. How is it better?

Its not except if you need to shoot a bear, need a very small and concealable carry. It does have the advantage of being very reliable. In small size they are difficult to shoot and are generally considered an experts weapon. What they are saying for the most part is you should learn to shoot a revolver so that in a couple of years of practice you will have mastered it and be a better overall shooter. If you can shoot a double action revolver you can learn to shoot anything else pretty quickly and that is true. I started with a revolver because in the 80s that is what everyone did. I don't see it as necessary myself and most people don't do that anymore.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

Thanks Dill.

Most of the guns I'm looking at seem to be $400-600, a few more. The most expensive handgun I have looked at was a scadium frame auto for $1200ish, but I don't know enough to justify that level of spend.

The $2500 could all go to the gun with nuff cause, but everyone so far has told me I don't need that much. Which is good because I'd also like a CHL which adds up to about $250, and some accessories. I think "incidentals" (a little safe, a holster, better belts, starter ammo, CHL and so on) will add up to $1000 if I'm not savvy.

With a $600 pistol that would still leave $900 for training out of my budget. Plus I can pay for quite bit by skipping the bar trips w/ coworkers, so if training is fun I will keep going.

Since you are intending to go for training why not do the training before you buy a gun? I'm sure you can find a course where they supply the guns this way you can use several different types of handguns and see which you like best before you buy.

 

[The Narrator]

A lot of good advice! Thank you!

Rusty, I get you about starting with the basics. I wanted a .22 first as a trainer but I already have a .22 I can't buy bullets for. Learned that lesson the hard way. It just seems like the skills and habits of a revolver are different than a pistol, so if I will want a pistol I should just get a pistol. Hopefully I can learn the basics either way.

Everyone: Thank you!

I am going to try handling an M&P and a P250. Then I'm going to buy whatever 9mm auto seems nicest all around in the $400-600 range, and a lot of ammo.

 

[Ed Ames]

See if you can find a CZ75 non-BD (DA/SA or SA only) since it sounds like you liked the 75 except for the DA trigger reach.

Walther PPQ would be another to try.

RIA makes a number of 9mm 1911s including a 4.25" double-stack 9mm that also comes with a .22TCM barrel which is loads of fun. The 5" version of that is my favorite pistol right now so I am probably over-recommending it, but it is still under $600.

Good luck.

 

[zerobarrier]

It looks like you are getting alot of advice on pistos, so let me point you in a direction for holsters, belts, and mag pouch's. I personally like leather and there are 2 companies I like,Mernickle Holsters they have alot of holsters and concealed carry systems which include holster, belt, and mag pouch. I have one of the systems and love it, the belt is awesome. I am not a fan of the high rise, I opted for the medium ride. They can pretty much make the holsters for any gun and to any spec you want, it can be completely custom just call and ask if they can do it.

Simply Rugged I have a pancake holster and speed loader pouch from them. Very nice and he also has a pretty nice belt called Simply rugged belt-laminated that seems to be heavy duty.

A good belt and holster make a huge difference in conceal carry.

If you want Kydex IWB I had aCrossbreed that I liked and I have a Aegis Armory Shield holster that I really like because I can use a viridian flashlight attached to my pistol with it.

 

[txblackout]

Most modern guns are going to be reliable and accurate. The basic popular semi autos are springfield XDM, Glocks, smith and wesson M&P.

They all run in the $500 or so range (usually less).

The most important thing is fit in your hand and feel when you fire it.

GT distributors is a great gunshop in the dallas area.

This is what I did:

1) lots of research to narrow down the search to the more popular guns based on reviews and forum posts. Narrow down to say 5 guns. You will also want to decide between 9mm, .40 and .45. This will be based on recoil, ease of hitting targets etc.

Going through the full cycle of loading the mag, inserting the mag, shooting and dropping the mag will give you a good feel.

2) Go to a range and rent guns (usually about $10 each) try to fire about 50 rounds from each, going back and forth.

3) pick the one you like.

For example the gen 3 glocks have the mag release too far out for my thumb to reach. The gen 4 have a larger mag release which works perfectly for me.

Glocks dont really have a safety (there is a trigger safety), which I like. This means the safety can never be accidentally on. If you want the safety then you would want a different gun.

I personally like to stick with a single brand so I dont have to learn multiple systems for operation, disassembly and cleaning.


9mm ammo is the cheapest and most available out of 9mm, .40 and .45. Right now you can find it for about .22-.25/round (GT distributors has CCI blazer for 0.25)

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I liked the XDM and glocks ended up with glock because parts, aftermarket etc are the easiest to source. I started with the 19, too big to carry (printed). Got a 26, too big to carry (printed). Glock doesnt make a subcompact 9mm, so Im now carrying a kahr cm9 in a sticky holster. This gun pretty much totally disappears and is still pretty easy to shoot.

I keep the 26 in a safe in my car and the 19 in a quick access safe at home.

 

[Steve CT]

A lot of good advice! Thank you!

Rusty, I get you about starting with the basics. I wanted a .22 first as a trainer but I already have a .22 I can't buy bullets for. Learned that lesson the hard way. It just seems like the skills and habits of a revolver are different than a pistol, so if I will want a pistol I should just get a pistol. Hopefully I can learn the basics either way.

Everyone: Thank you!

I am going to try handling an M&P and a P250. Then I'm going to buy whatever 9mm auto seems nicest all around in the $400-600 range, and a lot of ammo.

Looks like you have narrowed down your choice pretty well. Since you have a .22 lr already, a 9mm is probably your best option. Ammunition will be pretty available and well priced.

Two future considerations:

1) A .357 magnum revolver?

2) Reload your own ammunition?

 

[txblackout]

One other thing, glock has the Glock sport shooting foundation. If you get a 2 year membership ($60) you can get special pricing on 1 glock the first year and 1 glock the second year. I think a gen 4 19 is around $422 with GSSF pricing.

Any shop (like gt dist) that offers law enforcement pricing should honor this.