You NEED to keep this in your reloading area.

[Robert101]

I have a large 2.5 gallon rechargeable fire extinguisher in the garage area. I primarily keep it close due to welding. I prefer the water over the chemical based stuff. If you have ever discharged a powder extinguisher you will know why powder is messy. Halon based devices is a good alternative as well for electrical fires - no mess.

 

[Walkalong]

No mess, yes, but Halon displaces oxygen (That's how it works), and will suffocate you quickly (Displaces the O2 in your lungs) if in a confined space with it. Use with caution.

Halon is being phased out due to concerns about the atmosphere, just like some Freon formulas. Plus it is dangerous. Works great though.

Let's not debate that here though.

Y'all just be careful if using it.

 

[JohnMc]

Guys, be careful with what type of fire extinguishers you use.

Welshshooter is right on checking the SDS (Safety Data Sheet). They used to be called MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet), but the Globally Harmonized System (GHS) renamed them "SDS." I think the US adopted it last year.
Anyway, they're the source of what type of extinguishing agent to use.

There was an article in one of the Hodgdon reloading manuals about the construction of their Pyrodex plant. I remember them specifying that for something that contains its own oxygen supply the best firefighting system is a water deluge because it cools and disperses the material.

Also, Elkins45 is right about water; gunpowder has it's own oxidizer, otherwise it wouldn't burn in an airtight cartridge, so needs water to cool the burning material.

There are three sides to the Fire Triangle; Heat, Fuel and Oxygen. To stop a fire, at least one leg has to be removed. Gunpowder inherently contains two of those. The newer fire tetrahedron also adds chain reaction as another leg.

CO2 extinguishers only remove the oxygen. Gunpowder will continue to burn. Same with Halon. Both Halon and CO2 extinguishers are class BC - for combustible liquids and electrical fires.

Dry Powder works by blocking the oxygen. They are class ABC - ordinary combustibles, liquids and electrical.

Water is class A and functions to cool (remove the heat leg), spread the material around (bad for flammable liquid fires, OK for paper, wood - if some combustibles are not close enough to each other, the chain reaction stops) and can cut off the oxygen, as water and as steam. It's the cooling and maybe dispersal that matter for gunpowder.

Keep safe.

 

[mdi]

Standard shop equipment, reloading or not, just standard equipment...

 

[GBExpat]

My Dad even outfitted our vehicles with extinguishers in the mid-60's when the units became smaller and more affordable.

I have 3 mounted in the basement (one by the reloading bench), 2 upstairs on either side of the kitchen and a "big" one mounted in the incorporated garage.

 

[THe Dove]

Another note for you all. If you do have a dry chemical extinguisher, ie. ABC....... Every other month or so, take it out of the bracket, turn it upside down and tap on the base with a rubber mallet. Shake it vigorously and place it back in the bracket. This will help keep the media from caking on the bottom and rendering your extinguisher useless in the event of a fire emergency. ABC extinguishers have a shelf life as well. FYI, They usually have to be serviced every six years if my memory serves me correctly.

The Dove

 

[Rule3]

I always got a check out of have the Coast Guard inspection on my boats . So is your fire extinguisher fully charge and mounted to the bracket? Why yes it is. Sure when my gas powered vessel catches fire I am gonna stand there and fight the fire!! Usually when a bilge goes it's all over real quick! I am diving overboard!

Passed a Huge Propane truck today, and there was is maybe 5 or 10 lb extinguisher on the back. Yep sure that's gonna help!

 

[splattergun]

I've been a fire/disaster steward at 2 companies, and the training taught us that the primary purpose of a fire extinguisher is to make it possible for people to get out of the danger zone, not to put the fire out completely. that's what the FD is for.

OTOH, if it does the trick, use it!

 

[tonyjr]

I have had 3 water pipes break . While the deductible was only 300 , It was a pain to deal with . Last time it happened - I got 3 estimates to repair pipes and repipe house in copper . Had sprinklers added [ 2 in garage ]
While I have 3 extinguishers , I told the wife when it M T , go to neighbors and call 911 . I have M T-ed 2 on neighbors fires , they did not replace or even buy one for them selves
My advise - at least put in a sprinker above bench - even if just hose with a valve
Check the batteries in smoke detectors , air in spare tire and your oil

 

[jbm]

No mess, yes, but Halon displaces oxygen (That's how it works), and will suffocate you quickly (Displaces the O2 in your lungs) if in a confined space with it. Use with caution.

Halon is being phased out due to concerns about the atmosphere, just like some Freon formulas. Plus it is dangerous. Works great though.

Let's not debate that here though.

Y'all just be careful if using it.

Halon doesn't displace the Oxygen. It chemically interrupts the burning process. A concentration under 10% halon is enough, leaving plenty of oxygen. Some halons (there is more than one) are safe to breathe. What we used in the Navy was one such halon.

Brad

 

[Walkalong]

However it works, suffocation is the danger when going into a room where halon has been released.

Supposedly 5% halon in the air is enough to stop the fire.

People huff Freon (Similar to Halon) to get "high", but all it does is displace O2 and makes them light headed.

Maybe I am using the wrong descriptor.

 

[fotheringill]

And, NEVER, NEVER, when asked by your wife where you store powder, tell her on the burner box so it stays dry.