Yugo 24/47 Mauser -8mm

[milemaker13]

I was in an army surplus store last week and among the rifles and shotguns was a mauser or two. I dont remember the price or model exactly... but I think it was about $300 and maybe... ahh... swedish?? The tag said "like new", I didnt handle the gun so I'm not really sure.
It was chambered in 8mm. The store also had some 8mm ammo in a wooden crate. 70 rd bandoliers for $35 iirc..
Obviously I dont know much about mausers..

In general, would this be a good or bad rifle to pick up?
If yes, what should I look at during inspection(bore, wood, action, etc)?
Is 8mm still widely available? Is the surplus ammo in the crate likely good or bad (corrosive)?

What do you like/dislike about the mauser?
Are there different models or countries/dates of mfg to be desired or avoided?

Thanks for any discussion you can provide!

 

[tark]

Well, if it IS an 8mm then it isn't Swedish. It's not a 93 or a 95 either. Whatever it is ( I assume it is a milsurp in original condition? ) if it really is "near new" it is worth much more than $300. 8mm ammo is widely available, at least in my neck of the woods. If it is near new, the bore should be bright and shiny. It's pretty hard NOT to like a good Mauser.

The subject of Mauser rifles is both wide and deep. There are many models and calibers. Dozens of books have been written. You could simply google "Mauser rifles" and start learning.

A pic or two would go a long way in helping us identify what you are looking at.

 

[milemaker13]

I will be back down there this weekend. I did not have my phone or I would have snapped some pics, of the tag as well (kicking myself... ).
I have started googling some but like you say, it is hard without some numbers to go by.
So what I remember.. it was definitely surplus of some kind. "Like new " but the wood looked old and military. This shop didnt seem to have wowza low prices on other firearms (pawn shop so lots of shotguns).
So I dont think I've stumbled apon a grossly underpriced gem. I do remember it was 8mm.... so what does that point to?
Perhaps a Yugo M48?

 

[LUCKYDAWG13]

good rifles

 

[milemaker13]

Great. Assuming it is an m48, is there anything to look for, such as m48 A or B as the posted video pointed out? I like how the video described the rifles build quality and all milled parts.

 

[Ignition Override]

It was seemed as if my Yugo 48A shots always went about 3-4" high at 50 yards. The old battle sight syndrome?
The rear leaf sight's lowest setting seemed to result in this, and I never noticed whether the front post might be raised (doubtful). Possibly a different sight picture could have been learned for the front wedge-shaped post sight.

If you check it again, having a matching original bolt number would be a major benefit, especially if it has very moderate internal wear.
And you might check that the safety tab functions in all three positions (YouTube is my "Gandalf the Grey").

 

[boom boom]

One thing is that the m48 is rather a rough action so you need to work the bolt like you hate it. The second is that the milled trigger guard, etc. of the m48A is nice but it will not shoot much if any better than the stamped trigger guard m48B. A few folks, collectors mainly, like the m48BO which lacks any crest etc. which supposedly produced for export.

 

[milemaker13]

It was seemed as if my Yugo 48A shots always went about 3-4" high at 50 yards. The old battle sight syndrome?
The rear leaf sight's lowest setting seemed to result in this, and I never noticed whether the front post might be raised (doubtful). Possibly a different sight picture could have been learned for the front wedge-shaped post sight.

If you check it again, having a matching original bolt number would be a major benefit, especially if it has very moderate internal wear.
And you might check that the safety tab functions in all three positions (YouTube is my "Gandalf the Grey").

What are the 3 positions of the safety lever? I saw on a video how the lever flips over top but i assumed it was only left and right (safe and fire). What is the 3rd (presumably top/middle) position?

 

[theotherwaldo]

There IS an 8mm Swedish Mauser, but it doesn't use 8mm Mauser - it uses some over-powered machine gun cartridge and is pretty rare.
The muzzle brake is a dead giveaway.

Anyway, I'd give $300 for any unmolested Mauser of any type that I didn't already have - and I might just get it anyway... .

 

[Scooter22]

The farthest setting locks the bolt. So you have Fire, Safe but you can cycle the bolt to remove it and Safe with the bolt locked.

 

[fpgt72]

One thing is that the m48 is rather a rough action so you need to work the bolt like you hate it. The second is that the milled trigger guard, etc. of the m48A is nice but it will not shoot much if any better than the stamped trigger guard m48B. A few folks, collectors mainly, like the m48BO which lacks any crest etc. which supposedly produced for export.

This is news to me.

I doubt they all are rough, I know mine is not, but then it did come back in the late 40's before the world got split in half. I have the box with the 22 kit, but missing the mags. The box has the guys name on it, unit, number, and even a few stamps. Pretty cool, and in very good shape....also very smooth. I also have the muzzle cap and bayonet. I know he traded two packs of cigs for it. I actually got to talk to the guy, it was work to get the box as it had his SS# on it....I was only allowed to keep it if he could change a 3 to an 8. But I have the box.

You really need to stop and think these guns are old, did not live the best life, and was tucked away for a SHTF type deal as they went out of front line service pretty quickly in gun years....how they got packed away has a great deal to do with how they will work. And I have yet to see a gun that really gets worked hard not start leaking goo as the gun gets hot....does not matter how well you clean it, the wood (I really think) just soaks up cosmoline. I have noticed it when really running a gun, and 9 hole reviews commented on it when doing one of their mauser "reviews"....I want to say the not scoped version.

The gun is a mauser action, like any other mauser action.....and all the same rules apply.

As to the OP, what to look for.....the same stuff you look for on any old gun, bore, headspace, if you can yank it from the stock and check for rusty bits where you can't see. Past that you get into the weeds on this or that version....and I do not know enough to comment on the different flavors of the rifle.

 

[eastbank]

it may be a Turkish 98 at that price, Yugo 98,s are going for more than 300.00 in like new condition. I would prefer a german ww-2 over both the turk-yugo, but they are priced for much more money. if a Yugo I say buy it if indeed in new condition. my nicest 98 german ww-2 mauser that a former owner put a gross-gloss finish on it.

 

[milemaker13]

Turkish may be ringing a bell here... did they produce a "48"?
Gosh, really kicking myself for not running back to the car for the phone in order to take pics. I will be back there this weekend. Maybe I could call and get the info...

 

[boom boom]

This is news to me.

I doubt they all are rough, I know mine is not, but then it did come back in the late 40's before the world got split in half. I have the box with the 22 kit, but missing the mags. The box has the guys name on it, unit, number, and even a few stamps. Pretty cool, and in very good shape....also very smooth. I also have the muzzle cap and bayonet. I know he traded two packs of cigs for it. I actually got to talk to the guy, it was work to get the box as it had his SS# on it....I was only allowed to keep it if he could change a 3 to an 8. But I have the box.

You really need to stop and think these guns are old, did not live the best life, and was tucked away for a SHTF type deal as they went out of front line service pretty quickly in gun years....how they got packed away has a great deal to do with how they will work. And I have yet to see a gun that really gets worked hard not start leaking goo as the gun gets hot....does not matter how well you clean it, the wood (I really think) just soaks up cosmoline. I have noticed it when really running a gun, and 9 hole reviews commented on it when doing one of their mauser "reviews"....I want to say the not scoped version.

The gun is a mauser action, like any other mauser action.....and all the same rules apply.

As to the OP, what to look for.....the same stuff you look for on any old gun, bore, headspace, if you can yank it from the stock and check for rusty bits where you can't see. Past that you get into the weeds on this or that version....and I do not know enough to comment on the different flavors of the rifle.

A lot of the m48's were never issued as the Yugo's but some were used as training rifles for recruits and can have well worn bores. Early on, the Yugos also had a huge pile of intermediate action 24/47's and reconditioned a lot of German/Czech m98's. Branko's Northcape book on the Yugo Mausers is pretty revealing about recruit practices where a few rifles were worked to death by conscript recruits while most were salted away in an ocean of cosmolene. Like most of the Eastern Bloc, the Yugos were transitioning to the semi-autos during the 50's and away from bolt action rifles for their front line troops and so the m48 had a short service life as a frontline firearm. Quite a few did see action in the Yugo Civil War in the 90's.

The greatest problem that a lot of folks online have recorded, and my personal m48 demonstrated is extraction/ejection requiring a vigorous engagement of the bolt compared with a German or Czech 98. This is what I mean by rough along with merely adequate triggers, the fit and finish resembles late war German or Czech rifles rather than pre-WWII or early WWII rifles from those sources. But these rifles are generally as accurate as any other Mauser in good condition and strong as an ox compared with some variants.

 

[Scooter22]

The common Turk long rifle is the Model 38. There was a short rifle that was refereed to as a 46' or 48'. 1938 was a year they revamped a lot of their rifles. K.Kale is the most common but they used all the actions they had. So you may see a German or Czech in there. Theres also a 03/38 that were 1903 Mausers reworked to 1938 specs. That was manly converting them to 8x57. THey will have a notch milled into the edge of the front receiver ring to clear the longer round.
Heres a good rundown on Turk models if thats what you saw. I have a couple 38s, 03/38LR, 03/38 SR, M93. Forgot 98/22. All in great shape and good shooters.

https://www.turkmauser.com/models.aspx

 

[theotherwaldo]

Another Turk Mauser will have mostly Czech markings - the 98/22. It is almost identical to the Kar. 98 except for the Czech factory crest over the chamber, Turkish acceptance markings and arabic numerals on the sights.
Some of these were actually unfinished German rifles that were given to the Czechs after the war as reparations.

There was also a modified version of the 1888 Commission Rifle, but that isn't really a Mauser... .

 

[milemaker13]

Ok. I called them. Its a yugo 24/47 priced at $347.99.

 

[fpgt72]

A lot of the m48's were never issued as the Yugo's but some were used as training rifles for recruits and can have well worn bores. Early on, the Yugos also had a huge pile of intermediate action 24/47's and reconditioned a lot of German/Czech m98's. Branko's Northcape book on the Yugo Mausers is pretty revealing about recruit practices where a few rifles were worked to death by conscript recruits while most were salted away in an ocean of cosmolene. Like most of the Eastern Bloc, the Yugos were transitioning to the semi-autos during the 50's and away from bolt action rifles for their front line troops and so the m48 had a short service life as a frontline firearm. Quite a few did see action in the Yugo Civil War in the 90's.

The greatest problem that a lot of folks online have recorded, and my personal m48 demonstrated is extraction/ejection requiring a vigorous engagement of the bolt compared with a German or Czech 98. This is what I mean by rough along with merely adequate triggers, the fit and finish resembles late war German or Czech rifles rather than pre-WWII or early WWII rifles from those sources. But these rifles are generally as accurate as any other Mauser in good condition and strong as an ox compared with some variants.

You have to remember Yougosavia was not a com bloc country.....Tito disliked Stalin and later the shoe banger....he saw what the soviets did in Hungary in the mid 50's, and later the Czechs in the late 60's. They actually had a plan in place if the soviets attacked them as well as NATO. They really stood on their own.....I do think they had some help from the Chinese, as china and the soviets never got real buddy buddy.

You are likely right as the one example I have is likely very pristine.....I have never actually looked or shot another.....why would I....the one I have looks like it is show room fresh.....and something can be learned from that example.....this is how they work with little to no misuse.....then the other hand is I could have just got lucky.....but I think it is likely pretty darn "new". I know the old guy used it for shooting squirrels with the 22 "kit" installed. What a heavy 22....but if that is what you have that is what you have.....just glad he did not start cutting on it.

I can tell you I got lucky in getting it.....Working at Cabelas at the time, in the gun lib, and this old dude comes in....we buy the gun, then I buy the gun.....then someone from the Truman lib comes in to pick up something and he wants that gun....sorry pal, sold. Well do you want to sell it....why so it can sit in a basement in a drawer never to see the light of day again.....no it is coming home with me....I have worked at museums in the past and know the behind the scenes stories on the treasure that never gets displayed...because of "space". I have not shot it a great deal, but it does get shot.

 

[boom boom]

Ok. I called them. Its a yugo 24/47 priced at $347.99.

The wood stock on the 24/47 is a bit different from the m48 (which resembles a k98 stock) but all of the parts should be milled, it is still an intermediate action, and the rifle would have went through complete refurbishing after WWII. You were quoted a decent price for a very nice rifle.

These are pre-war Mausers apart from a few that were put together by partisans during the conflict itself. The Nazis took over the state arsenal, lost control of it briefly, and the partisans came back and cobbled a number of rifles from the huge parts inventory at the arsenal. The pre-war Mausers were either made by FN originally or later on machinery at Yugoslavian arsenals installed by FN. These 24/47 are generally quite nice and resemble vz24's or FN export models for foreign militiaries. However, the Yugo's scrubbed any prior history from the receivers etc such as the former seal of the Royal Yugoslavian government prior to WWII so if you do by chance get on the few that has escaped scrubbing, these are worth more to a collector. I have an m48 but admit that the 24/47's that I have seen are generally nicer in fit and finish than the m48 series.

 

[milemaker13]

Thanks for the info guys. I'm still on the fence just because I wonder what else I might find for about $350... a fairly local shop with alot of used rifles has some browning A bolts listed that I might look at.... can you tell I still window shopping? Lol.

I would like the historical aspect of the mauser though...

 

[Scooter22]

24/47 should be fine and the price isn't bad considering what they are asking for Yugos online.. I have one and several M48s. Nice guns. Just look for matching numbers. Some have a mismatched stock or floor plate but make sure the bolt matches so you won't have to worry about head space. I'd hate to tell you what I paid for mine but I'm sure you know how cheap they were when shipping crates of them came in. I wasn't born or a little kid when the first big surplus glut after the wars way back but I jumped on the 90s import train. Still kicking myself for some models I didn't get. Oh well. I'm happy on what I did get.

 

[lionking]

I have two 24/47, one is still in the box in cosmoline. Also have a mint M48. Here is my one 24/47, shoots good overall. Shoots better with S&B but decent with Prvi. Shoots a wee bit high at 100 yds with factory 196 or 198gr

 

[boom boom]

At the $350 level, you might find sporterized No. 1 or No. 4 Enfields that are fairly easy to revert back to military condition, an Arisaka that might or might not be sporterized, Carcanos, sportered 1917 U.S. rifles (aka American Enfield), low number sportered 1903 Springfields, and perhaps some sportered Mausers. For about $100 more, you will find more in military condition but some will be well worn. Of those, I would try to get a Swiss 1911 or k31 before they are all gone. You will probably not find another rifle in military trim, except maybe for a Carcano, in very good condition/re-arseneled, for around $350 although some deals are still out there on private sales and the like.

As far as production models on bolt actions, Mosin, Mausers and Enfields are the largest, US Springfields 1903 and 03a3 models and U.S. 1917 rifles were also in the millions counting all models. These rifles and the sporterized cousins come up pretty much everywhere. Then things like Arisakas, Berthiers, Lebels, Krags, m95's, Carcanos, Commission Rifles+older 71/84 and 71 Mausers, etc. while fairly common, can be a little harder to locate depending on where you live and your willingness to buy one online. Pre-twentieth century stuff is a bit harder to get and Civil War era are around but pricier as you get further and further back for shootable rifles.

Semi-autos are another market altogether. The most likely rifle in military trim seen around your price point (350-450) is the SKS (leaving aside new production AR15's).

 

[ThomasT]

I had one I bought from J&G Sales that was stamped Century Imports IIRC. The bore and action were fine. the bore was in perfect shape. Most of the parts did not match and were over stamped. There is no windage adjustment on the rear sight. You have to drift the front sight. Mine had to be maamered halfway out of the dove tail to zero. I bought a rear (Mojo???) to replace it and it was adjustable.

It was neat to look at. Heavy as hell. kicked like a mule and was fun. But the stock had all the little wood repairs where the wood had been carved out and a new piece of wood spliced in. I counted 11 repairs on mine. I sold it. That sort of cure my surplus bug.

But I still wanted a basic type rifle. I am influenced from reading all the Backwoodsman magazine articles about surplus rifles for the prepper and user of basic tools. I had an old Remington 30-06 that all the shiny finish was flaking off off and it was dented in the stock and the blueing is thin. So I refinished the stock and sanded out most of the dents and scratches. I removed the rear sight and installed a Williams WGRS peep. Now its my cheap ($200) dollar survival/prepper gun that satisfies my urge for a tough backwoods gun.