Yugo SKS: Is there a finish under the cosmo?

[WayneConrad]

I just got my first cosmo-covered rifle, a "like new" Yugo SKS from AIM Surplus. Looks like I'm going to get my initiation as a collector by having to remove the sticky, gooey stuff.

I've read about oven baking, back yard baking, power purple, gasoline, mineral spirits, steam cleaners, hot water, and dishwashers ( ). My favorite method would be to give it to dad and let him do it, but he declined. Go figure.

Even after all this reading, I have a question:

Is there a finish under that cosmoline? Is it worth keeping? If so, what methods of cosmo removal will preserve the finish rather than remove it? I don't want to go at it with the Power Purple if a gentler method should be used on this rifle.

 

[musher]

Most of your basic solvents won't remove the finish from the metal. I got one of those plastic under the bed tubs from walmart. Just fill it with enough kerosene to cover all the parts (removed from the stock) and let it soak for a day or two.

I've had pretty good luck on stocks just using some warm water and simple green. I don't soak the stock in the liquid, but use a rag to wipe it off. Warming the stock with a hair dryer (don't get it more than warm to the touch) will help drive cosmo out of the wood. I don't think kerosene or any more aggressive petroleum solvents would be too good for the wood.

Anyway, thats how I do it. Takes a few days, but it keeps me off of the streets.

 

[Flatfender]

Dishwasher method works very well! Don't let the wife catch you!

Cleaning gunstocks
http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting/cosmoline/index.asp

 

[SmershAgent]

My 59/66 from AIM was the same way. I just bought a jug of solvent and a big paint tray from the hardware store and spent an afternoon in the garage with a roll of paper towels. When all was said and done, the rifle looked good and the stock retained its finish.

 

[22luvr]

Here's what worked for me....

I bought an un-issued Yugo 59/66 and used mineral spirits with a stiff nylon brush to remove the cosmoline.

Go here for complete disassembly/reassembly instructions:

http://www.surplusrifle.com/sks/carbine/index.asp

Aim surplus has an excellent free library of downloadable instructions covering all aspects of the SKS.

Pay special attention to the firing pin/bolt assembly. (beware of the full-auto syndrome with a stuck firing pin!) The firing pin is free-floating and ALL of the cosmoline must be removed so that the firing pin slides back and forth freely. I just dunked mine in a bowl of mineral spirits for a period of time.

The entire disassembly/cleaning/reassembly process took about 3 hours. It was time well-spent because I had never been into a gas operated semi-auto carbine.

The finish is there, blued with some SS parts. No, my cleaning technique did not damage the finish at all.

I think my stock is beechwood, it was very light and I just carefully wiped it clean.

You will learn a lot about the operation of your rifle and you should be very pleased with your SKS.

 

[dleong]

When I purchased my first Yugo SKS a few years back, someone suggested using brake cleaner to remove the cosmoline. Three cans of brake cleaner and an afternoon in the garage later, my SKS looked, literally, brand-spanking-new.

I then shot that SKS for the first time on a hot and sunny afternoon. Everything went well until I noticed my hands were becoming gummy from handling the SKS. Then I realized what was happening: the heat from the sun was causing the deeply soaked cosmoline (which had not been removed during the initial cleaning) to "leach" out of the wood grain.

I eventually managed to get most of the soaked cosmoline out of the wood by putting the stock in a black garbage bag and leaving it on the driveway on a hot, sunny day. The heat absorbed by the bag managed to "leach" most of the cosmoline out.


DL

 

[RaggedClaws]

Everyone has their own secret recipe for cosmoline removal. Your first time will be a challenge, regardless what method you choose. Here's my method:

Completely disassemble the weapon and put all the metal parts in a paint tray or something like that. Boil a kettle of water, and when it starts to whistle, pour it over the metal pieces. Then, either using thick gloves or tongs or whatever, take out each piece and wipe it down with paper towels and q-tips (you can also use a hand steam cleaner or canned air to blow out all the crevices you can't reach). I then like to use WD-40. Lay each piece aside as you get them cleaned and coated with WD-40. Once everything is cleaned off pretty good and coated, clean up the tray of water and goop (clean as you go!). Next, wipe down all the metal pieces again, try to get off the WD-40 and the remaining goop you missed on the first pass.

As far as the stock goes, don't use standard mineral solvents unless you want to risk removing the finish. I would pour boiling water over it and then wipe it down with Simple Green (or just papertowels). There's going to be cosmoline soaked into the wood, so it's best if you leave the stock out in the sun after you think it's clean. After about 15-30 minutes depending on the sun, you'll see the stuff bubbling up, and you can just wipe it off. Repeat until nothing bubbles up anymore (you can also use a hair-dryer or the oven, but the sun is definitely the easiest).

If you want to stay traditional, rub Boiled Linseed Oil into the stock (everyone has different recipes for the best stock treatment, Tung Oil, beeswax, etc). Make sure you get the "inside" of the stock too! Let it dry, do it again. Let it dry, do it again.

That's my procedure, works great for me, and is pretty quick when all is said and done. Those Yugo stocks are real nice under all the goop Have fun! Detailed cleaning really helps you to understand every single little part of your gun. Once you've removed all the goop, oil up the moving parts (but not inside the bolt!). Also, thoroughly clean the barrel and chamber, as you normally would. You can also add rifle grease to the metal-on-metal contacts (bottom/sides of bolt, receiver rails, etc).

 

[XD40Assassin]

Yep when I took my SKS out for its first shoot I had cosmo bubbling out of the small crevices around the wood and metal. Still havent cleaned it yet just the barrel cause Im shooting it again today.

 

[bogie]

The easy way...

Buy your SKS at Cole's tent, then walk next door, and hand it to the guys with the ultrasonic cleaning stuff.

 

[dolanp]

Usually the Yugos are not finished with anything. A few coats of tung oil will give it some character and keep it protected.

 

[racenutz]

I have the steam cleaner mentioned in this article & it works wonderful http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting/cosmoline/index.asp

 

[WayneConrad]

racenutz, Where did you find your steamer? I went up and down every isle of my local Home Depot twice and the only steamer I found was for removing wallpaper. It didn't look like the right thing, and it was $50 besides.

 

[g56]

I got a Yugo 59/66 from AIM, all I needed to clean it was WD40, which I already had, really pretty easy.

Still havent cleaned it yet just the barrel cause Im shooting it again today.

That's an accident waiting to happen, unless someone has already cleaned it internally, those things are loaded up with cosmoline on the inside, it needs to be completely disassembled, including taking the bolt apart to clean the cosmo out of the firing pin channel.

 

[racenutz]

racenutz, Where did you find your steamer? I went up and down every isle of my local Home Depot twice and the only steamer I found was for removing wallpaper. It didn't look like the right thing, and it was $50 besides.

I found it at Home Depot, it was in one of the aisle displays.

 

[WayneConrad]

I found it at Home Depot, it was in one of the aisle displays.

Racenutz, Do you recall the brand name and how much it costs? I hate to pester you over it, but I'm going to have to be really specific with the employees, I think, because they didn't seem to know what I was asking for.

Or maybe they don't have it anymore

 

[WayneConrad]

Progress, and continued dilemma

Thanks for all your help so far.

I finally got the wood free from the metal last night. It took some baking in the oven to soften up the cosmo enough for the rubber butt plate to come off and for the trigger group to come free. Things will be a lot easier now that I can use aggressive cleaners on the metal and save the gentler treatment for the wood and rubber.

It looks to me like I can't remove the wood from the gas tube, but at least it's a small piece.

Anyhow, I've got two different answers so far about whether there's a finish on the wood underneath all the cosmo: "yes," and "no." I'm a little bit inclined to just go for it with the power purple and then add a new finish, but this is such a nice rifle that I hate to think of removing a finish if there actually is one. I'm also lazy enough to not want to be gentle with the wood unless it's actually needed, hence my dilemma.

 

[mainmech48]

The easiest way that I know of, with the least chance of inadvertant damage to the wood or metal finish, is to use kerosene and an assortment of old paintbrushes and rags.

Some prefer mineral spirits for a solvent. I use kerosene because I've had problems with lifting/removing wood finish using what's basically a paint thinner before. Not to say that it'll affect all wood finishes; just that it's more likely to have that effect on varnishes and oils.

Kerosene is cheap and relatively safe. It is less volitile and has a higher flashpoint than many commercially made solvents. Rubber or heavy latex gloves and eye protection are a good idea no matter what solvent you choose.

Over the years I've used it on at least a couple of dozen surplus firearms. I've never had a single instance where the wood or metal finish was harmed in the least.

Just my $0.02.