4" 1911s and close tolerances=ftrtb

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FlyinBryan

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i saw this same problem on here the other day and tried to help diagnose with some little trouble shooting steps.

my good bud from arkansas purchased a new pro carry kimber, and ill be darned if he didnt call me with the same prob.

he said that its still fairly new, maybe 200 rnds, and it has had the same failure bout 10 times.

it extracts fine, ejects good, but some times it dont go bang. when it stops, he notices that everything looks good except it stops 1/8-1/4" short of battery. he says that it is so close to completing a cycle, he can just shake the gun and it will snap into place. or very slightly push it and hes off and running again.

we live 200 miles apart so im trying to help him over the phone.

in his case, i dont think the issue is a tight chamber because i told him to try to recreate the condition, without rounds or magazine in place.

i suspected just overall close tolerances in the barrel link and lockup lugs locations and length. you know .0002 here is good, .0002 there is good, but you know, .0002 and .0002 makes .0004 if combined just right (or should i say just wrong).

i told him to try it without the mag, and let the slide go forward in a controlled manner, MUZZLE POINTED UP. then the same, slow controlled manner, MUZZLE POINTED DOWN.

this is the same test i was telling someone here to do the other day with the same prob, but it wasnt the case with his i guess.

but my buds gun would hangup, empty, when he tried this with the muzzle down, but not when pointed up. and when it occured, slight pressure on the end of the barrel would release it. as would slightly pushing forward on the slide.

to me, this says the tolerances are so close that when the muzzle is pointed down, gravity holds the barrel in the forward and upward most position, short of locking lug engagement, and causes a wedge condition just before battery.

this makes me think that a next size longer barrel link would fix the prob, but its so close, it would be trial and error for me to re-link it, and like i said, we are 200 miles apart.

i told him to check his recoil spring and to watch to see if any coils appear to compress before the others and he said 2 coils near the middle of the spring seem to collapse almost completely before the others even get close.

i told him to buy a 20 lb wolff, for a commander with the .330 full size guide rod, and that i think it will mask the close tolerance issue till the gun is properly "worn in"

shouldnt this work since it requires such little force to push it into battery, and seeing that he most likely has a spring issue anyway?

sorry for the long read, i wanted to be thorough.
 
I think Kimber say 500 rounds to break in. Tell him to keep shooting
My Kimber has been perfect except for the cheap trash mags it came with. I use my Colt mags and it runs fine
 
Maybe your bud should send the pistol back to Kimber and tell them to finish the job. Considering the price of the gun, why should he have to buy 200 to 500 rounds of expensive ammunition to "break it in?"

Ever hear of someone with a new Glock, Beretta, SIG or Ruger having to break their new gun in? Do you think that during World War Two, Uncle Sam had to break in any .45's before they were shipped out? Of course not, and they also worked fine with the magazines that came with them.

There is no good reason a pistol should be "too tight" out of the box. It's a myth that only works with some of today's 1911 style pistol buyers.

Your bud should wake up and smell the coffee - Kimber just took him for a ride. :banghead:
 
t extracts fine, ejects good, but some times it dont go bang. when it stops, he notices that everything looks good except it stops 1/8-1/4" short of battery. he says that it is so close to completing a cycle, he can just shake the gun and it will snap into place. or very slightly push it and hes off and running again.

If you are shooting handloads I'd say look at the ammo for OAL. Otherwise it sounds like the gun is dirty and the cycling is getting slowed down a bit.
 
it stops 1/8-1/4" short of battery. he says that it is so close to completing a cycle, he can just shake the gun and it will snap into place.
Check the little rod that comes up through the frame to work th FPS. If it is rough or has been damaged taking the slide on & off improperly, it can catch/drag on the slide right about there on a Kimber.
 
Quote:
i told him to buy a 20 lb wolff, for a commander with the .330 full size guide rod

4" Kimbers use 22lb officer's model recoil springs.

Yes indeed, putting the recoil spring for the 4.5" Commander into the 4" Kimber Pro is a real good way to break the gun when the spring coils all touch and the slide stops short under recoil.

Wolf lists recoil springs specifically for the Kimber Pro, but the stronger recoils spring is a band-aid on the real issues with Kimber as Old Fluff has already pointed out.

--wally.
 
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