700 SPS accurizing?

[Big_E]

I bought a 700 SPS in .30-06 as my first rifle when I turned 18 a while back. It seems pretty accurate. However, I found this site:

http://www.nerdulator.net/firearms/Rem700/

Should I do what the author recommends? I seem to have gotten the accuracy bug and want the best performance my rifle can give me. It also seems to be the most cost effective way other than buying a Bell and Carlson stock.

Instead of cutting the barrel down from 24'' to 20'', I was thinking about cutting only 2'' off of it. What do you guys recommend? Right now i seem to get about 2-3'' groups at 100yrds (some shooter error, barrel not cooling, etc.)

 

[nicholst55]

I didn't take the time to read the entire article, but I disagree with his decision to shorten the barrel out of hand. First, decide what you plan to use the rifle for. If it's target shooting, 4" of barrel may, or may not make any real difference. For hunting, well, it would depend on where I would do most of my hunting. For a beanfield or wide-open spaces rifle, I'd leave it at 24". For a deep-woods rifle, 20" is sure handier than 24", and the velocity loss won't matter at close range.

One thing that probably does need to be done to the barrel is to recrown it. Most factory crowns leave a lot to be desired. A professional recrown is relatively inexpensive, and I've never heard of a professional job hurting accuracy.

Another thing you need to decide is 'how accurate is accurate enough?' Do you really need 1/2" groups consistently? A couple of factors figure in here: can you realize the accuracy that the rifle is capable of? In other words, can you consistently shoot 1/2" (or whatever the rifle is capable of) groups? While recoil from a .30-06 isn't objectionable for most people, it can become tedious when sitting down trying to shoot a bunch of groups. A .223, .243, or .260 might be a better choice for a bench rifle. No reason not to use your .30-06, just that there may be better choices.

By all means, tinker with your rifle. Do some more research on what most people do to accurize them, and when you're comfortable that you can do the necessary work, have at it!

 

[Big_E]

My main concern is the stock because I have heard many people complain about how weak the synthetic is compared to laminate. Glass bedding is something I definetely want to do as well as free floating the barrel. I will get my dad to help me out if I feel uncomfortable (especially glass bedding.)

I primarily bought the rifle for hunting purposes and I wanted a bolt action because they are so fun.

 

[dakotasin]

don't let your rifle suffer an identity crisis... it is not a heavy barrelled bench gun, so don't go to the expense of trying to make it into that, and be disappointed that it isn't.

don't replace the stock w/ a b&c - they aren't any better than the factory stock, and the stock is probably already a b&c. if you want to put the money into a good stock, go w/ one of the mcmillan stocks.

the gun will respond to glass bedding pretty well, but make sure you get some good mechanical locks created so the compound doesn't pop out.

don't cut the barrel at this time. after you hunt a few times w/ it, cut the barrel if you deem it is too long or unwieldy. i am a fan of shorter barrels because they are stiffer, but they are also much louder, and lose some velocity.

my reccomended changes are to free float the barrel, glass bed the stock, and get the trigger tuned to a good comfortable level. from that point on, just shoot the tar out of it.

 

[LTR shooter]

Should I do what the author recommends? I seem to have gotten the accuracy bug and want the best performance my rifle can give me.

No way would I do the barrel shortening like he describes with hacksaw , file and sandpaper. Most would more than likely make things worse.

If an accurate bolt rifle is the goal you might want to sell your SPS sporter and look into the SPS Varmint. If wanting to stay in .30 cal. the .308 would is available and most of those who have them will do much better than 2-3 inch groups with no work at all.

don't replace the stock w/ a b&c - they aren't any better than the factory stock, and the stock is probably already a b&c.

I have a SPS Varmint in .223 and have used it in a HS stock as well as a Bell & Carlson. The factory SPS stock is a simply a molded plastic stock and is not nearly the same as the B&C Medalist that I have. The B&C is more comparable with the HS Precision I have.

Not saying the SPS won't shoot well with the plastic stock.

 

[Interceptor_Knight]

I bought a 700 SPS in .30-06 as my first rifle when I turned 18 a while back. It seems pretty accurate.
Right now i seem to get about 2-3'' groups at 100yrds (some shooter error, barrel not cooling, etc.)

If you are getting 2-3" groups, it is you or a combination of you and the ammo and not the rifle. 2" groups at 100 yds is fine for hunting at all reasonable ranges for you.
My recommendation is to work on your personal shooting skills. The only modification which I would recommend to the rifle is trigger work. The factory trigger is pretty stiff.
Pick up yourself a .22 if you do not already have one. Start out at 25yds. If you can not group under 1/2" from a rest at 25 yards with your .22, you can not expect to group under 1" at 100 yds with your .308.
If you are really interested in precision shooting, take a weekend and attend an Appleseed shoot. It will give you the basic tools to shoot well with any rifle.

 

[Big_E]

I sorta know how to shoot well with most rifles (Thanks Dad and THR!) But I really havent had the chance to go out and accurately group my gun. I have a Harris bipod on the way and shooting stand so one of these weekends when it isn't raining i'll group the gun and give a range report.

From there I will see what needs to be done. The standard 700 barrels are pretty good so I will leave it for now. Thanks guys.

 

[Interceptor_Knight]

You are far better off with sand bags or other bag type rests. Bipods are not ideal for judging groups or for absolute shooting accuracy.