1) Unload gun
2) Using the special spanner wrench, remove the barrel nut. Then slide off the shroud
and unscrew the barrel.
3) Remove the grip screw with an Allen wrench and slide the grip off.
4) Remove the two Allen sideplate screws. (Note: they are different lenghts)
5) Vibrate off the sideplate by tapping the grip stud with a nylon hammer or wood
screwdriver handle.
6) Just infront of the trigger is a small wire like, horseshoe shaped clip. Lift
this up and out with a magnet or tweezers. Now open the cylinder and slide the
cylinder/yoke assembly to the left, and out of the frame.
Okay, now stop and study where all the parts belong. Take a picture if needed. Pay
close attention to the cylinder hand and transfer bar and especially the little spring
that connects them.
7) Remove the cylinder hand by lifting it up off it's post and moving it to the left. Note
how the tail end of the transfer bar spring fits into a small grove on the back side of
the hand.
8) Use tweezers to unhook the forward end of the mousetrap style trigger return
spring from the ledge on the trigger.
9) Lift out the trigger and then the transfer bar and spring.
10) Push the cylinder stop (bolt) down to clear the frame and then lift it out to the left.
11) Grab the forward end of the trigger return spring again, and lift it over the
hammer stud. This should completely remove it's tension.
12) Hold the hammer all the way to the back and insert the long sideplate screw into
the hole in the bottom of the grip stud. Screw it in. It's going into the bottom
end of the mainspring strut and captures it in place.
13) Lift the hammer and trigger return spring out.
14) I put the treaded end of a cleaning rod over the top end of the mainspring
strut, and push down to hold the tension of the mainspring. While the holding
the tension, unscrew the sideplate screw from the botttom. Slowly let up on
the rod until the mainspring has relaxed and remove the mainspring strut and spring.
Now that you have a bench covered with parts, here's what I do to smooth the
action and lighten the trigger pull.
1) Install a set of Wolff reduced power springs, especially the trigger return
spring.
www.gunsprings.com
2) Polish the inside of the sideplate. Don't worry about removing any deep tool
marks, just make it smooth.
3) Polish the sides of the hammer below the frame line (the part that doesn't show).
4) Polish the sides of the trigger above the frame line.
5) Polish the flat bottom of the cylinder bolt and the top of the trigger
where they rub together.
6) Polish the inside flat of the frame, especially around the hammer and trigger bosses.
Note: All polishing is done with a couple small hard Arkansas stones and
a few strips of crocus cloth. Don't change any angles or remove any
decernable amout of metal. Just shine up the areas where parts rub together.
Put it back together and test fire. 1st time through, you may want to skip
the polishing and see if the springs alone are enough for what you want.
The above method is how I've slicked up the actions on my small frame Dan
Wessons. I don't own a solid large frame, so I can't help much there.
