Barrel Vise?

kmw1954

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Joined
Jun 24, 2018
Messages
3,589
Location
SE Wisconsin
Have the NSS Action wrench and the Savage barrel nut wrench for both the grooved and smooth nuts. When I did my Model 11 last which had a Smooth nut I struggled with it and trying to get the nut wrench tight enough to keep from spinning. It was suggested to get a barrel vise.

So my question is which one? Maybe only using this once a year, more or less so I do not need a top of the line high dollar investment just something that will work safely w/o damaging the barrel. Let's see what ya got!
 
Brownell's also sell barrel vises of that type, BUT you need to bolt them to a really solid bench, or what a friend does..... bolt it to a truck bumper.
He can change barrels on his Kelbly action rifles right there on the shooting line.
 
For Savage, I just use a Wheeler action wrench put in a good vise attached to a heavy bench. Keeps the action stationary which is all you need for barrel nuts.
 
I have made them using double split set collars can put them into the lathe and quickly machine tapers in them using the compound rest if needed then weld them to a fixture to hold or a handle/torque wrench adapter.
 
I have the Wheeler and the Viper, both were around $50 when I bought them, which was within spitting distance of the cost to build them myself, let alone realized labor value. I also have one of the action wrenches like pictured above - forget who made it, maybe Wheeler, but I can’t think of the last time I used it. I lust after a SAC modular vise, but I always have other projects which take my fun money focus away from it - it’s in line behind an AMP press.

But to be honest, for Savages, a barrel nut wrench and an Action Rod is about as handy as it can get. Clamp the barrel nut wrench in a standard vise, run the barrel through it, stick the rear-entry wrench into the action, bob’s your uncle, easy peasy, and no opportunity for your barrel vise to slip (of course, if you have a smooth barrel nut, the nut clamp can still slip, but that’s unavoidable).

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Don’t overthink the bench - sure, we need something which can withstand ~100ft.lbs. of torque, but that’s really not so complicated. I’ve removed and installed dozens of barrels with either of those vises above bolted to a Black & Decker Workmate portable/folding workbench. I keep the vises in a toolbox under my bench with a set of bolts and wing nuts, I slap it on the Workmate, use a cheater bar on my torque wrench, and I never break a sweat. A lot of guys use Inline Fab unimounts, it’s just not THAT much force when we’re talking about the actual strength of steel and wood.
 
Thanks so much everyone. Am just trying to get prepared for a barrel swap coming up and don't want to have a repeat experience as the last time. The Action wrench and the smooth barrel nut wrench did not work.
 
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