Browning barrel tips

[BSA1]

I am posting this on the Blackpowder Forum as I suspect this is a topic better answered by fellow smokepole shooters.

I have a Lyman Hawken (I think) rifle. I have had this gun for many years. It originally had a black blue finish and adjustable sights. I have removed the sights, recut the dovetails and fitted more period correct fixed sights.

My next step is to refinish the gun to look more period correct. I have stripped the bluing off with vinegar and sanded the barrel flats with wet or dry sandpaper.

My questions are;

How rough should I leave the metal? I know browning is merely controlled rust. What grit of sandpaper so I use for final preparation?

Any tips for browning? I had a fellow club member tell me to soak the barrel in Clorox Bleach, rinse the bleach off the barrel being careful not to touch it with bare fingers and then apply the browning solution? Anyone try this method?

 

[4v50 Gary]

I like Laurel Mountain Forge's browning solution. Follow the instructions.

Depending on your area, you may need a humidity cabinet. I tried one in the SF Parkside District with a PVC pipe, light bulb and tuna can filled partially with water. Well, it was too humid and a heavy scaled rust formed overnight. It was cleaned off and redone, this time without the water/pvc/lightbulb and tuna can of water. Hung it in the garage and it was fine. After several days (repeat the process per the instructions), I had a beautifully browned barrel.

 

[Crawdad1]

Laurel Mountain Forge's browning solution. I agree there, it produces a spectacular brown.

 

[BSA1]

What is a humidity cabinet?

Somewhere I have some instructions about making a tent out of some plastic, hanging the gun inside it and heating some water. Sounds similar to your tuna can and lightbulb effort.

What grit of sandpaper did you used for the final prep? I'm thinking along the lines of 320 wet or dry sanded dry to create a rough enough surface for the solution to bite into.

p.s. I just checked and I have Laurel Mountain Brown solution.

 

[AJumbo]

I always draw-filed the barrels on CVA and TC kit rifles, and never tried for a smoother finish. I used Birchwood Casey browning, and always got a good job, but I didn't know about Laurel Mtn. I prefer it greatly these days.

The only abject failure I ever experienced was with a CVA barrel that had been polished up with 400 grit auto paper. I had to draw-file the barrel in order to rough it back up.

 

[D. Buck Stopshere]

Two ways to go with Laurel Mountain Forge (see directions). First, degrease.

1. Apply the solution and hang barrel in the "sweat box/room" (a hot, steamed-up small bathroom with just a shower stall comes to mind) and let set for four hours. Card off the residue & apply new coat of solution every four hours for four or five intervals. Produces a "not as coarse" (as in step #2) gritty finish to the metal.

2. Apply the solution and hang in sweat box/room and let set for twelve hours. Card off the residue and apply new coat and let set for another twelve hours. Card off, and apply oil to stop the process. Produces a coarser finish to the metal.

Experiment with small barrel sections for each grade of finish. Use bottom flat of barrel surface that will be hidden by the stock forearm.

 

[BSA1]

Thanks AJumbo,

I'm concerned the metal is too smooth at the moment. I'll pay a visit to the hardware stuff and get some coarser paper.

D. Buck,

Any tips on what to use to degrease. A fellow buckskinner told me to soak the barrel in Clorox bleach, rinse then apply the browning solution.

 

[short barrel]

Get some browning solution from Track. Here are the steps. I've done it many times.

1 - make a wooden box a little longer than the barrel. It needs to have a lid and a vent. You will also need some kind of hanging device on either side (inside) the box to support the barrel.

2 - Put a very small electric light inside the box to proved heat to speed the browning process. A small light bulb. Have a wall socket nearby so you can plug it in

3 - File the flats of the barrel flats with a course file to roughen it. It may look to rough, but the browning will smooth cover the marks. Be careful not to round the edges of the flats.

Plug the muzzle with a cork to keep the solution out of the barrel. Also plug the flash hole.

4 - Apply solution to barrel and put it in the box, turn on the light. Put a wet rag in with the barrel to provide moisture. The next day, take the barrel out. It will be really splotchy, but that's okay. "Card" the barrel, which means rubbing it lightly with 0000 steel wool. Wipe it with a rag and repeat. Card it every day before applying more solution. If you are not faithful in carding, the finish will be uneven. Every day will slow you a smoother, darker finish. The barrel will be brown like a Hershey bar.

5 - When it's too your liking, place the entire barrel in something that will hold enough motor oil to cover the entire barrel. The rusted barrel will soak up a lot of oil, but will give you a very even and tough finish.

I made my box out of 3/8 plywood, but particle board would work as well. It need not be a pretty box, and it need not be air tight. The light bulb should not rest directly on the wood of the box. (Fire danger.) If you are uncomfortable leaving the light in the box unattended, check on it now and then to satisfy yourself it is safe. It just needs to be warm, not hot.

 

[D. Buck Stopshere]

I forgot Laurel Mountain Forge's Barrel Browning solution contains its own degreaser.

Plug the muzzle with oily rag or patches, so the browning solution does not drip into the bore.

Decide whether you want "a little coarse" or "hey, that's COARSE!" finish and follow directions according to Laurel Mountain Forge.

Go here: http://www.laurelmountainforge.com/barrel_brown_inst.htm

for the expanded directions for their brown finish.

Hope this helps

 

[swathdiver]

Use LMF and no higher than 320 grit paper. Too smooth and the finish will not be as nice.

 

[BSA1]

Thank you for all of the tips.