Expert Handgun Cleaning

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I actually get quite sloppy with an old toothbrush and liberal amounts of liquid Breakfree CLP. Scrub away then wipe down with a piece of an old t-shirt. Usually follow-up with flitz or mag wheel polish on my stainless guns.

That's about what I do. For the barrel I like to scrub with brass brushes and then use a coupla hundred patches (seems like that many sometimes)

Then I'll use some decent gun oil, very sparingly, where needed.
 
I'm surprised no one mentioned Ed's Red yet. It's a home brew--recipe on the net--that I use on everything. Breaks down powder residue, copper, lead, any kind of fouling I've encountered, and leaves behind a protective coating. Check it out.
 
I don't know how many quarts of Ed's Red I've gone through over the years...

I've mixed up bottles for both of my stepsons, and their Model 1858 Remington revolver replicas. Seems to make cleanup a breeze, and I've noticed the same for my 1874 Sharps Business Rifle after a day of Goex Cartridge 500gr loads. Good stuff, for either black powder or smokeless!
 
Since nobody else has mentioned it...

Toss your Combat Tupperware in the top of your dishwasher. Oh, liquid dish soap is important!







Yes, I'm joking. No I don't own any Glocks, and no I wouldn't put it in the dishwaser if I did!
 
EghtySx was saying
>That's about what I do. For the barrel I like to
> scrub with brass brushes and then use a coupla
> hundred patches (seems like that many sometimes)

I've felt that way too as far as the coupla hundred patches, and then I read a tip in one of the gunrags that seemed authoritative that sort of cut down the size of the dirty patch pile:
1. Run a wet patch through the bore and let it soak while you clean the rest of the gun. By "wet" I mean BreakFree.
2. Run 2 more wet patches through.
3. Run a wet bronze bore brush through 10 times.
4. Run another wet patch through.
5. Run 3 wet patches through, scrubbing back and forth.
6. Run a dry patch through. If it's clean, you're done. If it's dirty repeat 2 through 6.
Usually, the dry patch comes out pretty clean, but I usually do the process twice. I baby my guns, and I like them clean, but I DON'T like to get overly obsessive with cleaning the bore. Even though bronze brushes and patches are softer than steel, some wear does take place, and I feel that barrels can be damaged as much by overly agressive cleaning as by too little.
Marty
 
Will break fluid harm the polycoat finish on my CZ 75 BD? and dose it come in a spray can?
 
Will break fluid harm the polycoat finish on my CZ 75 BD? and dose it come in a spray can?
Please note that they're talking about brake parts cleaner. Its in the automotive section in a big aerosol can that you use to spray grease and grime off a car's brakes before servicing them. Hydraulic brake fluid is a very different beast and I wouldn't want it on my gun's finish.
 
Nobody has mentioned Bore Snakes from Uncle Mike's yet? They are a true wonder for cleaning bores. Run them though a 3 to 4 times and most of the fouling is gone. Once they become filthy run them through the clothes washer for cleaning. It sure saves on the patch count when you are punching a bore fresh off of the range. You will only need a few patches instead of a fistful for an absolutely clean bore.
 
I'm no where remotely like an expert, but here's a trick.

I keep old toothbrushes. I run the tip without the brush through a bandsaw or grinder to make a scraper. Shape it into a point, slotted screwdriver, or a punch. They won't mar the finish and are two tools in one. They can't handle much stress, but if you're only scraping off crud they don't need to be tough.

I loved the hangun joke.
 
"I've got a question, though: My Kel-Tec P-32 has some nooks and crannies in the slide that are too tiny to be reached with a Q-Tip. Does anybody know of some applicator capable of swabbing out such miniscule recesses?"

for thoes really thin channels I take a piece of old tshirt and fold it over the end of an L shaped dental pick and run it through thoes channels where even a q-tip shaft wont go.

Big Kudos to using dental pics but if ya get a few, buy the el-cheapo ones from the gunshow. They're made out of steel thats so soft it wont scratch your finish. Believe me I've taken one of the cheapys and rubbed and rubbed in the cracks with no damage to the gun.
 
My cleaning drill for handguns?

1. remove grips:)
2. throw in tub of mineral spirits overnight:eek:
3. Scrub off sticky crud with toothbrush or steel wool as appropriate:cool:
4. swish in mineral spirits again:eek:
5. blow off excess with compressed air;)
6. lubricate:)
7. reload and reholster:D

Sam:neener:
 
Work Smarter - Not harder

Been practicing this adage a long time already - just getting older I find I appreciate it even more.

1) Visit Gunsmith Buddy , let him clean my gun(s) while I go out back and shoot something he built or fixed and never hurts to test fire some more - or them special pcs I made the trip in first place for so's I could I shoot them.

2) Students need to learn how to inspect and maintain , including guns. So I let them clean mine to get more practice.

All I did was pay attention to my Mentors & Elders. I'm just doing what they passed on to me is all. I mean who do think cleaned their guns? ;)


When the thread about Reloading Ammo comes up - whaddya think kids are for? When they ain't cleaning guns - they gots reloading to do. Applicable to nieces, nephews and students as well...:)

Ya'll are making something easy into something difficult. :)
 
I like bamboo skewers for cleaning. The pointy end works well in nooks and crannies. The dull end gets the crud off the breach face pretty well. Also I don't worry about scratching the pistol. Someone else mentioned the corn cob sticks at the chicken joints being usefull.

Mike
 
i like to use popcicle and corndog sticks. you can cut them, split them to make a tool just the right size or shape for the job. put a towel over the end and they are perfect to clean out slide and frame rails. split them to a point and they can scrape out the crud behind extractors.

salvage medicine dropers, clean 'em up, and use them for putting oil in just the right place, or putting solvent on a cleaning patch or brush.
 
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Along with regular toothbrushes and Q Tips...I toss one of those disposable battery powered toothbrushes in the cleaning kit, too. You'd be surprised what little crannies you can get in to with the little spinning scrubber head on that thing! Hoppe's #9 will kill it in about three months or so...it'll start losing bristles. At four bucks a pop, I don't worry about it.


You know I've seen threads like this before...and always held my tongue with one of my tips...because someone's going to tell me I could blow myself up! But, I also used to smoke while cleaning. And, the brushes are made for a "wet" environment. Let's just say I'm not worried about it too much.
 
Big Kudos to using dental pics but if ya get a few, buy the el-cheapo ones from the gunshow. They're made out of steel thats so soft it wont scratch your finish. Believe me I've taken one of the cheapys and rubbed and rubbed in the cracks with no damage to the gun.

Tipton makes a set of four dental pick like gizmos made out of plastic. I just picked up a set from MidwayUSA.com for about $4.00. I haven't used them enough to have sense of their durability.
 
Bore snake 3-4 times
Old tooth brush soaked in Youngs oil for the moving bits,
x3 sheets of kitchen towel, one to sit the parts on so you can keep an eye on them, one to wipe the piece over with and one to wipe me down with:)
Then a wipe down with a silicon cloth.
 
Brake/Carb cleaner has been mentioned several times in this thread. Yes, it cleans well but it also "dries out" the metal. When using brake/carb cleaner, please remember to liberally re-oil all the parts you've used the cleaner on.

I've had good results lately with Hoope's Elite Bore Gel for removing built up fouling in the barrels of my guns.

Mike
 
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