Did you ask the dealer from what experience he forms his opinion from? He may have a legitimate reason for suggesting you go that route. Then again, he may just be somebody who sells safes and knows nothing else about them.
I wouldn't disregard his suggestion until you know why he's making it.
Don't forget about EMP and how it effects electronic components.
NICEGUYMR wrote: "I read somewhere that "the 3rd number of a good manual dial lock cannot — or should not — be set to any number between 95 & 20". Why is that?"
USSR wrote: "When you remove the electronic keypad from the safe, such as to change the batteries, you will notice a key slot that allows you to open the safe with a key. So, EMP strike or dead batteries are of no concern, since you can open your safe either electronically or mechanically."
PHP][/PHP]When you remove the electronic keypad from the safe, such as to change the batteries, you will notice a key slot that allows you to open the safe with a key. So, EMP strike or dead batteries are of no concern, since you can open your safe either electronically or mechanically.PHP:
I distinctly recall a few conversations with safe dealers who also happen to be in the locksmith industry saying that they do get frequent calls on e-locks but that they are usually simple things to resolve (battery or keypad issues). Nonetheless, even for a small issue, you're going to pay for a locksmiths time. And just think, most e-locks have probably been purchased in the last 10 years or so which means that the evenuality of more and more e-locks malfunctioning or failing in some way will probably be on the rise.
Kwanger said:I'd say mechanical for main storage, electronic for quick access.
Your quick-access safe(s) (two at my house and one at the office) should be keystroke-quick...