Help I am in a bind with a disassembled FN FAL

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Acera

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I just got a FN FAL from my brother, and all is well except the lower receiver is disassembled.

Does anyone know a link to how to put the trigger group back together, or could provide instructions? I have gotten the spring in the stock (a real PITA). The bolt, and upper are in fine order.

Thanks for all you help.
 
Boy, that would be some serious typing:what:

I have not seen a good resource that explains it well enough to walk someone through it, at least not without some experience with the set up.

I would be happy to talk you through it via phone, if you desire.

Send me a PM and we can coordinate phone numbers and a time to do it.

Good luck
 
Getting the trigger group back in is easy.

Take a deep breath and relax (no insult intended) and look at the parts.

1) Insert the trigger and sear first, aligning them with the middle hole. The trigger and sear go in together and will be under some spring pressure as you will have a small spring and plunger that fits between the sear and trigger. You will have to press them together and hold them (there will be noticeable spring tension) aligned with the hole and tap the pin in from the side. All pins insert from the left side. This may seem to require six arms, but it really isn't hard.

2) Once that's in, slide the hammer in and pin it into place.

3) Once that is done, you will need to insert the keeper, which has a hole and two notches. The notched end, with a flange, goes under the hammer pin on the right side. Position it so that the notch is over the pin and the keeper is pointed forward. The flange will be to the left. Hook the notch around the pin and then rotate the keeper to the rear, so that the second notch engages the sear pin. Align the hole in the keeper with the rear hole.

4) Slide the selector switch into the lower receiver so that it retains the keeper (have the selector switch lever pointed up). Rotate the switch to "safe". Now the assembly is in there.

5) Take the hammer spring assembly and insert the knobbed end into the recess on the hammer on the right side. This will leave the plunger cap pointing to the rear (it will look like a witness punch pointing towards the rear, with the plunger and spring inside the cap and the knobbed head inside the notch on the hammer). Push the plunger hard towards the hammer while also pressing downwards until it slips into the small notch just above the selector shaft. Be careful as it will be under a lot of tension.

And that is that.

Ash
 
Thanks Ash, that did it. The big problem was with the selector switch and the keeper. I ended up making a small pin to hold the trigger and sear together, and then knocked it through with the main pin. All told, less than 10 minutes from your posting.

I appreciate the offer funfaler, I was getting close to taking you up on it.

rino451 I live outside Houston.

Thanks to all you guys for your help. That is why I like this board, fast, honest, applicable help from great folks.
 
Get yourself a slave pin to accomplish Ash's step 1. Maybe you can do it without the slave pin, but I've never got 'er done without one. This coming from a guy that willingly uses a rusty nail to remove the extractor.... :uhoh:
 
Acera,

if you live in the spring area, I am available right now. :)

just got back from doing a few honey-do's.


Lemme know


D
 
Ok Ash, here you go. It took me a while to get the camera to take a lower resolution picture for this post.

kfranz, that is exactly what I did. Now I know what to call that nail I modified, a slave pin. Cool

dbtanker, thanks for the offer, Spring not that far. But it looks like I've got this thing back together correctly.
 
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If you got that damn spring in the stock without the special tool then you will get the rest done, and my hat's off to you for managing that without a trip to the hospital :)
 
What TexasRifleman said...


I had to wrestle that dang spring back in...finally wound up going to Lowes and getting a piece of steel rod to keep the dang thing in line whilst I pushed the threaded cap down onto it.


Now I use my friends tool to do any stock work. :)


You sir have a really nice looking Izzy there. How does she shoot?


D
 
TexasRifleman It was a challenge until I figured out that a long T-handled allen wrench would fit through the hole in the nut and act as a guide to keep the springs in line. (I used the real cheap ones I got at Harbor Freight, not good ones like you get at a regular hardware store that have the plastic on the handle) Then it was a matter of pushing two fingers down either side of the T handle and twisting the stock around and around. The wood stocks are easier because you don't have to worry about the plastic butt plate being in the way.

db_tanker. I have not shot this rifle in years. Now that I have it back, it will be necessary to take it to the deer lease. Now that the season is over, not too many complaints from the other hunters.

My brother wants an M1A instead, so I don't know how much longer it will be around.
 
$9 for one of these from GunPartsGuy:

tapcobuttstocktoolud8.jpg
 
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