Help with an H&K P7

[samandglove1]

I collect S&W 357 revolvers, but I have always been intrigued by the P7. I finally broke down when I saw a beautiful example at one of my favorite shops. I'm not sure what I have though. Any help would be appreciated.

It is a satin nickel finished P7 (PSP I think) that looks new or refurbished in its correct black box with an extra mag and accessories. The serial number is 58028 and it is not import marked anywhere on the pistol. There is a circled Nds on the right side which I assume makes it a Saxony pistol and there is a 9/83 stamped as a date.

I thought these were all import stamped, so I'm confused. Thanks

 

[gym]

very nice, someone will be along that knows these guns soon.

 

[rellascout]

Looks hard chromed to me. Someone remove may have removed the hk import mark?

 

[usp9]

It looks like an early import, prior to 2007, when Germany started putting DE on all guns leaving their shore. The importer mark, (HK, P W Arms, etc.) was either missed or milled off when the gun was refinished.

Enjoy your P7... fun guns to shoot, reliable and accurate.

 

[9mmepiphany]

That is the model usually referred to as the PSP...the real PSP predated the P7 marking and is very rare...to differentiate it from the M8, M13, M10 and M7.

The lack of import markings is usually associated with the LE trade-in P7s (like you'll see on LE Sig P6s), but the heel mounted magazine release (which we can't see) doesn't look right for that model either.

Most P7 PSPs imported usually had a heel magazine release which was fairly narrow, but protruded outward and downward from the backstrap (variant 1). Later there was a modification (variant 2) which came with longer grip panels...like on the OP's P7...where the release was wider and flush with the rear of the backstrap. There was also a Variant 3 was was the adaption of the V2 release to a V1 backstrap.

Can we see a picture of the magazine release area?

here is a picture I found

I also agree with the other posters that the finish applied looks like an after market Hard Chrome

 

[451 Detonics]

Lack of an import stamp can also be attributed to it being bought in Germany in the Base Rod and Gun Club by a GI and brought back, I had several guns I had shipped back when I left Germany.

 

[benderx4]

By the way, the 9/83 is obviously the month and year of manufacture. The fact that it is actually formatted this way indicates the gun was manufactured for police use. Had it been made for civilian use, the date of manufacture is indicated as a "date code" such as "ID" which actually translates into 1983.

Very nice gun, I found one just like it recently and I do believe it is a nickel finish as I have a hard chrome already, and it's quite different. Congrats!!

 

[9mmepiphany]

That's what I was thinking too...I just wasn't aware of any of the Varient 2 magazine releases used over there. I thought it was mainly for the US market.

Now watch, the OP will show us a picture of the rear of the gun and it will have the original release back there

 

[samandglove1]

Mag release pics

Here are a few mag release pics.

 

[9mmepiphany]

Yup, Variant 2.

They give a smoother profile and are less likely to be inadvertently released when leaning back in a chair, but they are also a bit slower to use than the Variant 1. I used to carry mine as a duty gun and still carry it as my CCW every now and then

 

[samandglove1]

I appreciate it

Thanks for all your help guys.

 

[Pilot]

You will love the P7. You have a surplus P7 imported probably from the German BMI (Ministry of the Interior) in the last few years and was hard chromed, which is a very nice, hard, wear resistant finish.

Pay attention to how you clean the gas piston and piston sleeve. Do not use anything more than a toothbrush or cotton cloth and some Hoppes on the gas piston. You want to keep the edges of the piston very sharp to retard the gas as it was designed. Another area to look at is the gas bleed hole towards the rear of the barrel. Get a paper clip and bend it so you can insert it itno the rear of the barrel and make sure that gas bleed hole is clear of any debris. This is how the gas pressure is transferred to the piston which delays the recoil (blowback design) of the gun and along with the recoil spring helps retard the slide.

Other than that, its pretty straightforward. All in all the gun is very easy to field strip and maintain.

You will be amazed at its accuracy and ease of shooting. No need to have a death grip on the squeeze cocker either. Once depressed, it takes VERY little pressure to keep depresses. You can relax your grip to the point of it almost being loose, before the squeeze cocker will move back to its uncocked postion. It really is a marvel of engineering. Practice cocking the squeeze cocker and relaxing your grip to release it to get the feel before shooting it.

Did you shoot it yet?

 

[9mmepiphany]

Pay attention to how you clean the gas piston and piston sleeve. Do not use anything more than a toothbrush or cotton cloth and some Hoppes on the gas piston. You want to keep the edges of the piston very sharp to retard the gas as it was designed.

This is an excellent point. Many folks overclean their piston...trying to get off all the carbon,,,and end up rounding the edges of the rings. It is also important not to leave any oils on the piston or in the gas cylinder

 

[usp9]

It is also important not to leave any oils on the piston or in the gas cylinder

I disagree. The P7 manual says otherwise. Metal to metal, moving parts need light lube.

I soak my piston in Slip 2000 Carbon Killer and then toothbrush and a rag to wipe clean. It works well.

 

[earlthegoat2]

It is also important not to leave any oils on the piston or in the gas cylinder

This might cause additional and very quick preliminary fouling on the piston if there is any oil. Nonetheless, I have never had a problem with oiling my piston and cylinder or leaving it dry. The oil is going to get burned off after the first few rounds anyway. For storage purposes it is probably a good idea to oil it.

Because it is easier, I leave it dry mostly.

 

[9mmepiphany]

The oil is going to get burned off after the first few rounds anyway.

This is the basis of the recommendation...it doesn't. The oil in the chamber/on the piston doesn't burn off, with the heat, it turns into a varnish which causes the piston to stick in the chamber. It is much like letting oil soak in a hot turbocharger of a car...it automotive circles it is referred to as coking. This is different from the carbon that naturally builds up between the piston rings

For those who haven't experienced it, here are the symptoms: After a long string of fire, if you allow the slide to close (to take home to clean), the slide will be very difficult to retract...almost to the point of requiring hammering on the front of the slide. There were four of us who carried the P7 as our duty weapons and we all went to qualification together...this happen to two of the P7s.

I had a chance to discuss it with a H&K USPSA team shooter and his advice was the run the pistons as dry as possible to avoid the problem

 

[Pilot]

I agree with Mr. Epiphanny. Not that I am an expert by any means but have owned my two P7's for many years. I run the piston dry and have never had any problems.

 

[earlthegoat2]

oops

 

[usp9]

Here's a link to this lube or not discussion from a thread on HKPro forum. I agree with G3Kurz as to whether or not to lube.
http://www.hkpro.com/forum/hk-handgun-talk/126913-specific-cleaning-no-nos-p7s-2.html

But of course, it's your gun, do what you want.

 

[Dobe]

Lack of an import stamp can also be attributed to it being bought in Germany in the Base Rod and Gun Club by a GI and brought back, I had several guns I had shipped back when I left Germany.

Bingo. I own 4 M8s. The last one I purchased was a pristine M8 with a date code of 1985, but no import marks. This is usually due to a GI purchasing the handgun overseas, and then bringing it back to the states. On leaving oil on the piston, I do not, and do not believe in it either. It will burn into a varnish. Just try it, and you'll see. I have shot my a lot with and without oil residue. I prefer without. The burnt powder is enough of a lubricant.

 

[earlthegoat2]

I agree with G3Kurz as to whether or not to lube.
http://www.hkpro.com/forum/hk-handgu...nos-p7s-2.html

This is the method I followed as well. Like I said earlier though, I tend to leave it dry anymore out of laziness.

 

[Storm]

Congrats on a fine handgun.

As has been said, many refer to such a gun as a PSP. The vast majority of P7 are not PSP. Only the first 239 were actually PSP and are stamped as such. Another ten after that were stamped PSP/P7, and from then on only "P7". The PSP name seems to have caught on even though it is likely that one will never see one.

I love the heel mag release design which is pushed it rather than pushed out.

 

[usp9]

Only the first 239 were actually PSP and are stamped as such.

HK also produced a batch of PSP marked P7s at the end of the production run... also just a few hundred.

 

[benderx4]

Geesh, I feel like I'm back at Park Cities Tactical - this is a great thread on the venerable P7. Lots of great information. (I run my pistons dry as well.)

 

[Storm]

HK also produced a batch of PSP marked P7s at the end of the production run... also just a few hundred.

Intertesting, didn't know that. HK has a habit of discontinuing the P7 and then spitting out a couple of hundred more down the road.

BTW, some guns did slip by without the import stamp. I have a P9S from the Saarland that made it through without the stamp. I'm told that it isn't common but that it does happen.