Hi-power hammer bite

[hnm201]

I've been seriously thinking about a Hi-power. Looking for something "classic" and single action in 9mm to round out my collection and possibly carry.

Problem: I have large hands and when I grip the Hi-power its cocked hammer bites my hand (with the spurred or rounded hammer). It's been about 10 years since I've shot a hi-power and I vaguely remember this being a problem then. The smith at the shop where I was looking at the Hi-power said that they wouldn't bob or relive the hammer and that if I wanted to shoot a Hi-Power that I'd be better off changing my grip. That doesn't sound like a realistic option to me. If I was target shooting with it only changing my grip might be an option but not for carry.

I know that Cylinder & Slide offers its safe action for the Hi-Power that puts a bobbed hammer on the pistol and requires you to push it half-cock for carry. This doesn't appeal to me that much either. It just seems to me that cocked and locked is the way to carry this pistol.

Hmmmm. Maybe I'll just get a CZ. Or maybe I just need to start growing callouses on the back of my hand. But if anyone has any suggestions on what can be done about the hi-power's hammer bite for guys with big hands, please let me know. Thanks.

 

[George Hill]

I've seen HP's with beavertails built up from welding. This is something you might want to look into if your a fan of the HP.

 

[James Bondrock]

I have never owned or shot a BHP; this is just what I have read.

It depends on what part of the hammer is biting. The tip of the long spurred hammer could be pinching your hand against the rear corner of the grip tang. In that case, switching to the rounded "rowel" hammer might work, but apparently not in your case. However, if the base of the hammer is doing the pinching, I don't see what even a bobbed hammer would do. Lowering your grip on the gun does not seem viable. First, if you have large hands, they have nowhere to go in the first place. Second, too low of a grip will cause a "whipsaw" effect under recoil or could cause "limp-wristing" type stoppages. The ultimate solution to BHP hammer bite, IMO, is the welded-on frame beavertail. This is expensive, however.

 

[JohnBT]

I took a Dremel to a new MKIII and bobbed the hammer spur with a cutoff wheel. Then I switched to a grinding bit and relieved the back of the hammer and cold blued it after some final polishing. I have to say it turned out beautifully.

Getting the gun apart and back together was more work than the modifications. Some people do the mods with hammer on the gun - I wasn't that brave.

John

 

[hnm201]

Thanks for the info JohnBT. I wonder why my local gunsmith wasn't willing to bob the hammer? Liability issues? I don't know the guy that well.

 

[Stephen A. Camp]

Hello. Here are some observations on Hi Power hammer bite.

http://www.hipowersandhandguns.com/HiPowerandHammerBite.htm

Best.

 

[BHPshooter]

The cylinder and slide "push the hammer to half-cock" is called SFS system, and I really don't think it's worth bothering with. Cylinder and Slide has hammers that can eliminate hammer bite that are not SFS, however. That may be the way to go. You shouldn't have to change your grip either.

Good luck, and let us know what you decide to do.

Wes

 

[Mannlicher]

I have three Browning HP. I have yet to be 'bitten'

 

[BamBam-31]

Commander hammer (I think that's what it's called) on mine. I've been bitten once with it, however, but only slightly.

Small price to pay for this pistol, IMHO.

 

[Bren]

I believe the C&S SFS system cocks the hammer when you drop the safety so it's really cocked & locked, however the hammer may not be undercut enough for you.

Why not buy a C&S no bite hammer or undercut and bob a spur type yourself? I own BHP's and can't stand the looks of the beavertail mods but I don't get bit either. Bren

 

[hnm201]

Thanks the great information everyone! I am going to look into the C&S No Bite hammer options. I wonder why my local smith didn't recommend this as an option.

 

[Bren]

I don't know why Domzilla, it's a simple mod. You could send your spur hammer to Mark Grahm at ARS to have it done. Bren

 

[Sean Smith]

Bobbing the hammer is no big deal. The 'smith may be an idiot, alot of them are sadly. You can replace the hammer with one of the C&S "no bite" hammers too.

 

[Harold Mayo]

Dremel tool
Sanding drum for Dremel
Cold blue

You don't even have to take the hammer out of the hi-power if you don't want to.

Either take the hammer out and secure it or just take it to half-cock secure the entire gun (after making sure it's unloaded, of course).

You can bob the hammer at the third lateral serration (or further, if you want) and then blend the edges down. That takes care of "bite".

With care (especially if the hammer is in the pistol at half-cock), "hog out" the back of the hammer with the sanding drum just below the most curved part. The sanding drum is almost precisely the right size to radius the back of the hammer so that it won't "pinch" you (which is actually the most common problem, as opposed to "bite"). If you take the back of the hammer down to where it is almost flush with the rear of the frame, you'll have it just right. It'll be exactly to the point that most of the pros take it to in order to ensure no pinching. Take care to keep the hammer as cool as possible, though, as the factory spur hammer is a cast part and you can weaken it with a lot of heating (or that's been my unfortunate experience).

You'll probably want to radius the edges of your work before applying the cold blue, but that would be up to you and your sense of aesthetics.

 

[hnm201]

You can replace the hammer with one of the C&S "no bite" hammers too.

So, the CS hammers are "drop in" parts that do not require fitting?

In my case, the first rule of gun safety applies to dremel tools. I don't point a dremel at anything that I don't want to destroy.

 

[Sean Smith]

So, the CS hammers are "drop in" parts that do not require fitting?

Didn't say that.

 

[hnm201]

Sean, I know you didn't. That was just wishful thinking on my part.

 

[Harold Mayo]

They might be, though. Just depends on your luck. If you're gonna throw in a C&S hammer but have little or no experience or aptitude mechanically, I would strongly recommend a gunsmith. It shouldn't actually be a problem but you should use a gunsmith to get the most out of it.

 

[Sean Smith]

A trigger job is a good investment for a BHP, could have the hammer bobbed or replaced at the same time and still just be out $100.

 

[SDC]

I've got the same problem with my MK III; a little while ago, though, I saw something that just might be the answer without permanently modifying the pistol or its parts. Someone (saw it on the net, but can't remember where) is making a molded Kydex "backstrap" that gives you the effect of a beavertail, and it's a "drop-in" part.

 

[rauchman]

I picked up a Mark III a while ago, and besides the crappy trigger pull ( yes even with the mag safety taken out), I got nipped one too many times with the hammer bite. I liked the gun, but couldn't stand to shoot it. I traded it for a SA Loaded 1911. In order for me to get the BHP to where I wanted it would require a lot of funds that I would rather put into something else. I would like to shoot a BHP that had a good trigger job and the welded on beavertail just to see. For now, there are plenty of other pistols that interest me.

 

[hnm201]

I've decided

Thanks for the great info everyone. Someone wanted to know what I've decided: I've decided to put off my hi-power purchase indefinitely and diversify into the world of the 1911 5" 45 ACP. I probably be buying a Springfield Mil-Spec by the end of the week. If I like I'll budget a STI or other 9mm 1911-style piece in 2005. Happy Holidays everyone!