How much .357 through a S&W model 65?

[phil dirt]

I like to shoot what I carry, so how much .357 magnum can I expect to shoot in my Model 65 before I start to stretch the frame? I know I can shoot .38+P, but like I say, I like to practice with what I carry. Opps, I meant to start this in Handguns:Revolvers, not Autoloaders. Sorry.

 

[Certaindeaf]

Just a guestimate but probably like 10,000 158's.
I put 50,000 plus +P 110 grain .38's through numerous 686's and they needed multiple trips to the armorer.

Oh but edit.. those were all double action.. a good many fast.

 

[Steve C]

how much .357 magnum can I expect to shoot in my Model 65 before I start to stretch the frame? I know I can shoot .38+P, but like I say, I like to practice with what I carry.

.357 mag ammo should never stretch the frame as long as you don't use overloaded hand loads or lots of extra power loads from the small custom companies like Buffalo Bore, etc.

You will spend many times the value of the handgun before it will need repair for end shake. You can crack the forcing cone with as few as a couple hundred rounds on a K frame if you shoot full power (1,450 fps) 125gr JHP's. Use of Magnum Loads in S&W Model 19 and Other K-Frame Magnums New replacement barrels for K frames are not available so avoid this load. Medium powered (1,230 fps) 125gr loads from Remington or their Golden Sabers should avoid the potential damage if you want to shoot 125's.

 

[evan price]

As much as you want. Sheesh, with all the people who ask this sort of thing one might come to think the K-frame was made of balsa wood and tissue paper like a shoji screen.

Those barn-burner 110-grain loads were otorious for eating up forcing cones and cracking barrels at the 6 o'clock where the relief cut is. Stick to 158 grain like they were designed for and shoot them until your hand falls off.

 

[1911Tuner]

Back in the day, .357 Magnum meant something. The original loading had a large-framed revolver wrapped around it and it was good. The lead SWC flirted with 1500 fps from a 6-inch barrel, and broke 1400 from four inches.

Then along came the Model 19, and the knowledgeable folk of the day advised ".38s for practice and .357s for business." But they were ignored, and K-frames were beaten apart while-u-wait.

So, Smith & Wesson introduced the L-frame and about the same time, 158-grain .357 ammunition was neutered with an advertised velocity of 1235 fps from a 4-inch barrel that actually produced velocities in the neighborhood of 1175 fps.

But the handloaders still jacked the stuff up to pre-Eunoch levels and fired it in K-frames. The stuff was pretty hard on L-Frames too...it just took longer to rattle'em.

Lead bullets at original levels is a little better than jacketed, but the stretch will still occur with that stuff. And, yeah. Go ahead and ask me how I know. I was one of those who didn't listen to the sage advice and shoot .38s and downloaded .357 in my Model 19s...and I paid the price.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

From everything I've read about .357 Magnum K frames shooting 158gr ammo will not wear the forcing cone or crack it. It's not the frame you need to worry about, it's the forcing cone but not with 158gr ammo, but with 125gr ammo. The 125gr jacketed bullet ammo was very hard on the forcing cone of K frame revolvers because of the additional velocity achieved from the lighter bullet and that's where the damage showed up. Stick with 158gr ammo and you will be just fine from everything I've read about this situation.

BUT, like said above, current .357 Magnum ammo is hardly a magnum load at all. Most factory 125gr .357 Magnum ammo will not harm a K frame and can be shot at will. I personally prefer 145gr Winchester Silvertip ammo.

 

[snooperman]

I had 2 model 19s and both got cracked forcing cones from shooting 357 loads. I learned my lesson and stuck with the Ruger blackhawks for hunting and for general shooting the older "Sixes". I have never had a problem with the Rugers and have shot the hottest loads in hunting wild boar and deer on the farm.

 

[dprice3844444]

you might also find somebody who has a tapered forcing cone cutter for 38's and have the cone done.that will take some of the stress off the area
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=26161/Product/11-deg-38-45-INTERMEDIATE-CHAMFERING-KIT