Just powder coat all your bullets. wont have to worry about copper or lead fouling. I wonder if powder coating fouling will be easyer to remove? LOL.
I am going to say, as an ersatz measure, try lubricating your bullets. I did this to prevent cupro nickel fouling in my Lee Enfields. I had this awful Iraqi ball ammunition that positively left lumps of fouling, and it took weeks of soaking with Sweets to reduce the lumps. Weeks of soaking. I left a cleaning rod with a wet patch at the spot, and regularly pulled the cleaning rod and added a new saturated patch. And then I remembered that back in the old days, and I mean pre WW1 and slightly afterwards, shooters were dipping their bullets in grease to prevent cupro nickle fouling.
That tin on the top is filled with a grease.
Shooters would take their cartridges, dip the bullets in the grease, and pull them out. I did that, and no jacket fouling at all from those 303 Iraqi bullets. None at all! Then I got lazy, dropped chunks of grease in a bag, and shaked cartridges with the grease, and coated the cartridges that way. It worked, but was messier than the dip and twist method.
Over time, I have walked away from industrial greases. Greasing cartridges is messy on the fingers both in the prep and in the shooting. Fingers get dirty and I don't want industrial greases in my mouth or eyes. However there are plenty of human grade greases on supermarket shelves. Vasoline works well. Hair gels are stiffer, one in the picture has beeswax and is fairly thick. I like the thicker stuff. Depending on the amount of grease used, (and I have deliberately used an excessive amount of grease to see what happens), grease will flow back into the action.
30-06 round: Big Grease before on left, after on right
the grease rings in the extractor groove show that grease flows down the case sides out to the action.
grease squeezed into the action with massive grease globs on the bullets
dip and twist method and amount of grease on bolt face
Because I was also fireforming these belted magnum cartridges, I smeared grease over the cases. That way the case slide to the bolt face without grabbing onto the chamber. After firing, I had a perfectly fireformed and stress free case. From then, all I had to do was bump the shoulder back 0.003" during full length resizing.
shot well too
I have yet to shoot the thing, but I have a pre 64 M70 with a custom 300 Win Mag barrel. Before I purchased it, I made sure to push a patch down the tube, as the seller is someone I know, who never cleans his weapons after shooting them!. I don't want a pitted barrel. When I first looked down the tube, I could not see grooves and barely saw lands. The tube was full of jacket fouling. However, once I wore out a brass bristle brush, there was a nice shiny bore under all that fouling. The seller kept notes of load development, and looking at them, I noticed a written comment:
"finally found an accurate load!". I am very sure he had not found an accurate load, that just by chance, he shot a good group. If he had fired more rounds, he would have been back to blown groups because the tube was full of jacket fouling. When I do shoot this barrel, it will be with greased bullets, because I know, this barrel is a fouler.
I do have a JC Higgins M50 with a chrome plated bore.
and it copper fouls something awful, and groups walk, and then blow once the tube has around 20 rounds through it. I paid a gunsmith to lap the thing, and that helped, but it still copper fouled. So, I tried greasing bullets. No copper fouling.
I cannot hold hard enough to notice any inaccuracy with my greased ammunition. These are typical groups
Blow enough lubricant down the barrel, and jacket to barrel friction will be reduced to the level, that material from the bullet will not rub off onto the barrel. I am also of the opinion that reduced friction will reduce bullet engraving resistance, reducing pressures just at the throat. I can't prove it yet, but I am sure that grease coating the throat will reduce flame temperatures and engraving resistance and extend the lifetime of the throat, and the rest of the barrel. I mean, come on, remove the grease from your wheel bearings and see how long they last. Of course a grease layer blown in front of the bullet is going to reduce wear.
I will bet the Swiss noticed benefits from greasing their bullets, they were doing that from the 1888's, up to the 1980's
The grease ring on these bullets is dry, in consistency, between candle wax and toilet bowl ring grease. Sort of in that range. In the pre WW1 Arms and the Man magazine, shooters were offering up grease recipes that were probably as hard as modern bullet lubes to prevent jacket fouling.
If you have a barrel that jacket fouls, try grease. And take some cleaning wipes and hand cleaner to wipe your hands clean before the drive home.