Is it possible to adjust the trigger so there's no more creep/slack on an Enfield #1 mk 3? It's not a dire need to fix but i want to have a better trigger pull on it. Plus I'm in the mood to tinker. If it sounds too touchy or risky I'll probably just wait to take it to a gun smith someday. I thought I'd throw this question out there, any advice is welcome.
Lee Enfield trigger creep?
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panrobercik
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http://enfieldrifles.profusehost.net/ti17.htm
if you don't want to modify too much than just polish the very rough areas
if you don't want to modify too much than just polish the very rough areas
Your trigger is a direct pull trigger mechanism. It is very reliable and very safe. And can be worked on.
First let me recommend you buy a new mainspring. 100 year old mainsprings loose their strength. (You can buy a Wolff and cut coils till you have something reasonable. Their extra pound firing pin springs are too stiff in my opinion.) The reason why buy a new mainspring is that in direct pull mechanisms, when the mainspring becomes weak, the sear drags on the cocking piece surface, giving creep. I have fixed any number of triggers by just adding a new mainspring.
That does not always fix it, so the next step is to polish the cocking piece flat. Enfields are cock on closing, sometimes the surface gets a groove, caused by abuse. Remove the groove and polish the surface, and sometimes the problem goes away.
The next is the stoning of the humps. Basically you want to increase the amount of movement the trigger has in the first stage. You want to have it so when the second stage is engaged, that trigger sear is just on the edge of the cocking piece surface. Stone too much and the trigger sear will be off the edge of the cocking piece before the second stage hump is engaged.
Be careful, once you remove too much metal, you will need new parts.
First let me recommend you buy a new mainspring. 100 year old mainsprings loose their strength. (You can buy a Wolff and cut coils till you have something reasonable. Their extra pound firing pin springs are too stiff in my opinion.) The reason why buy a new mainspring is that in direct pull mechanisms, when the mainspring becomes weak, the sear drags on the cocking piece surface, giving creep. I have fixed any number of triggers by just adding a new mainspring.
That does not always fix it, so the next step is to polish the cocking piece flat. Enfields are cock on closing, sometimes the surface gets a groove, caused by abuse. Remove the groove and polish the surface, and sometimes the problem goes away.
The next is the stoning of the humps. Basically you want to increase the amount of movement the trigger has in the first stage. You want to have it so when the second stage is engaged, that trigger sear is just on the edge of the cocking piece surface. Stone too much and the trigger sear will be off the edge of the cocking piece before the second stage hump is engaged.
Be careful, once you remove too much metal, you will need new parts.
DougW
Member
I would learn to use the trigger as it is. Lots of work for very little potential gain. And yes, I have 14 .303 Enfields. Some have better triggers than others. The system itself does not lend well for improvement due to the design.
I'll probably try to improve without adjusting as was suggested. Thanks again.shinz
Member
You could always think about one of these. http://www.surplusrifle.com/reviews/hubertriggerenfield/index.asp They don't require too much modification but they are a bit spendy.
Steve
Steve
Romey
Member
The American gunsmith academy I believe it is made very good video about Enfield trigger jobs.
Its a pretty easy trigger to work on. You can take the first stage completely out (I dont recommend this,bad things can happen) or you can smooth and lighten the first stage and make the second stage a very crisp break which IMHO is the way to go on a very old battle rifle.
It almost sounds as if your confusing creep with the fact its a 2 stage trigger.
Its a pretty easy trigger to work on. You can take the first stage completely out (I dont recommend this,bad things can happen) or you can smooth and lighten the first stage and make the second stage a very crisp break which IMHO is the way to go on a very old battle rifle.
It almost sounds as if your confusing creep with the fact its a 2 stage trigger.
shuvelrider
Member
Alot of the milsurps were built with a "2 stage " trigger for battlefield use, it compensated for nervous fingers and also abit of safety. If in an ambush setting were the soldier tends to have his finger on the trigger, perhaps even with gloves on. That bit of creep in the trigger kept accidental discharges in check. FWIW
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