Oh NO! not the infamous idiot scratch.

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I guess cutting that little notch would add tremendously to the cost of a 1911. :eek: :D

I have one gun that even with the notch filed into it is an absolute bear to push into place. I need to shorten the pin it fits over just a tiny bit but just keep using the gun the way it is and grumbling when I do clean the thing.
 
If it's stainless, and not too deep, you may be able to use some Scotchbrite of the proper grit and blend it in. Did one of mine and you can't tell it ever happened.
. I did that. I used a green scotch rite pad. It blended right in.
 
If you actually carry and use a firearm it will get scratched. Anytime I see one without scratches I know it's a safe queen who's soul cries for use.

I was wondering how long it would take for this to come up. Guns get scratched, either get over it or sell it.
 
A little over 1 year in and my Mil Spec 1911 has a few wear marks, nicks and scuffs. No idiot scratch, but it probably wouldn’t stand out very much either at this point.

It doesn’t matter to me. Long as it’s running right.
 
I am not sure the infamous semi-circular scratch often referred to in a derogatory manner qualifies as honest wear?

3C
 
Ah, the annual "idiot-mark" thread started already and I'm late to the party.

All I know is, I never saw a 1911 in any USMC or USN armory that didn't have "the scratch." And frankly, we were never taught to reassemble after field-stripping in such a manner as to avoid putting the mark there.

I never thought about it until I discovered the internet (yes, late to that party as well, probably around 2001) and noticed that a couple of my Colts and Springers had the infamous mark.... The horror! The shame!

But, now I know better, and haven't inflicted any scratches on my newer 1911s these past twenty years or so, since I discovered painter's (masking) tape.
 
If that part of the pistol was designed intelligently, there wouldn't have to be a "proper technique" to perform a basic, necessary function.

What is the easiest way to take the slide off a Glock, or similar type pistol? I have seen at least 3 different ways on how to do it. But the easiest for most by far, is to put pressure on the grip with the thumb while pulling the slide back with the other 4 fingers slightly. Then pulling the takedown lever with the other hand. Every firearm platform has their own technique. It doesn't mean the design is faulty. Usually just the operator.
 
Ah, the annual "idiot-mark" thread started already and I'm late to the party.

All I know is, I never saw a 1911 in any USMC or USN armory that didn't have "the scratch." And frankly, we were never taught to reassemble after field-stripping in such a manner as to avoid putting the mark there.

I never thought about it until I discovered the internet (yes, late to that party as well, probably around 2001) and noticed that a couple of my Colts and Springers had the infamous mark.... The horror! The shame!

But, now I know better, and haven't inflicted any scratches on my newer 1911s these past twenty years or so, since I discovered painter's (masking) tape.


Well said and exactly what I was thinking as I read this thread. The idiot scratch was an alignment aid for reassembling the 1911
 
What is the easiest way to take the slide off a Glock, or similar type pistol? I have seen at least 3 different ways on how to do it. But the easiest for most by far, is to put pressure on the grip with the thumb while pulling the slide back with the other 4 fingers slightly. Then pulling the takedown lever with the other hand. Every firearm platform has their own technique. It doesn't mean the design is faulty. Usually just the operator.
But is there potential for damaging your Glock if you don't do exactly right? Not that I know of. That was my point.
 
But is there potential for damaging your Glock if you don't do exactly right? Not that I know of. That was my point.

A scratch is hardly damage. Plenty of my firearms have scratches, doesn't make them any less functional. There are techniques to putting the take down pin that doesn't scratch the frame. And there are ways that will scratch the frame. The scratch is just famous/infamous enough to have a nickname. Like Glock pig nose.
 
A scratch is hardly damage. Plenty of my firearms have scratches, doesn't make them any less functional. There are techniques to putting the take down pin that doesn't scratch the frame. And there are ways that will scratch the frame. The scratch is just famous/infamous enough to have a nickname. Like Glock pig nose.
Fair enough. I'd still call it a design flaw, though, just like the SIG P238 ejector/reassembly problem. The "idiot scratch" is actually less of a flaw than the SIG issue, because with the SIG, you can really damage your ejector if you leave it sticking up when you push the slide back on.

All of this makes me think of the safety/selector lever on an AK, which is impossible to use without scratching the receiver. Cosmetics were obviously not high on Mr. Kalashnikov's priority list.
 
I have a few safe queens that I can fret over.
Everything else, well,
I stopped caring about turn lines, idiot scratches, and the like long ago
 
Tivoli, you call that an idiot scratch?
Mine starts in the cut out for the trigger finger and goes up onto the flat side of the frame.
When I left an idiot scratch, I left a real idiot scratch.
 
One of the better deals I got on a 1911 was for a Colt 70series that sat at the LGS for months. It had an idiot mark that looked like the Hulk did it (frame and slide) and it was filthy. Eventually I made them an offer even I couldn't refuse. After considerable cleaning it turned out to be a nice shooter, for a Colt :evil:, with a giant scratch in it. Made an excellent base for one of my 22 conversions.
 
I have a faint mark on the SA-A1 after I initially began shooting it and becoming familiar with disassembly.

Happens even when we try to be careful. Human to have an "oh S!" moment, some have better foresight and don't have those issues. Called "experience". No different than having a screwdriver cam out of a fastener head. Rounding the corners of a bolt head because the person before had torqued it up to 300+ ftlbs.

(In an OCD session, I went around the house and replaced the worn screws. Anything with a flat head was replaced with a Philips or Torx/star drive.)
 
Well thanks for all the reply's but this ain't my first rodeo. Have owned probably 2 dozen 1911's in my lifetime but only one with the scratch. :(
Can only attribute it to not paying attention at the wrong moment. :uhoh:
 
"originated from its Spanish design"
The Star D model, a fantastic pistol rarely found as originally made in Spain, I owned a poorly made copy but alas it had zinc alloy at the magazine's base, (GET OUT OF MY SAFE!")
Contrary to what's been said here the hammer area has genius design attributes. The safety not only blocks forward movement of the hammer it also lifts the hammer off the sear. As for the ejector I just never had any problem with it, just push it down with your fingertip.
As for the idiot scratch, I did that to my first 1911 back in 1972. I hated myself for it, and yes, it wasn't considered a big deal back then, but I figured if some lady at Colt could put it in without scratching it I should be able to!
I've filed an entry groove into all my 1911's slide stops many years ago after reading a thread started by "Logman" in 2007 (https://www.1911forum.com/threads/idiot-scratch-proof.214653/) I'm showing the URL so people can see exactly how it's done.
 
First 1911… one of the first guns I ever bought brand new at a gun shop, first time field stripping and cleaning it, following the instructions in the manual, about 30 minutes after getting it home.

Big old scratch smoothly sweeping up the side of the gun. I was really irritated for a couple of hours as I recall. Then I figured it’s my gun and if I carry it it’ll probably get more of the same, so I didn’t worry about it any longer.
 
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