Priorities???

[9mmepiphany]

Initially, I was tumbling my brass, then loading it. I was having inconsistent primer seeding. More than once the case didn’t pick up a primer. So I just deprimed/sized the brass, then put it back in the tumbler. After that the black crud is gone from the primer pockets.

I use a little Dawn the first go around, then a little brass cleaner the second go around.

I will take a little longer looking at the flash holes while I’m separating the media, that’s a great idea.

From the above, I'll guess you are wet tumbling rather then dry tumbling.

You might find it easier/more efficient to use a Universal Depriming die to deprime before tumbling the first time...you won't need a second wash. You don't mention using Lemi-shine, so I'll recommend that...it cuts the carbon. I also use Armorall Wash & Wax in place of Dawn as it leaves a slight protective film on the cases

 

[kalielkslayer]

From the above, I'll guess you are wet tumbling rather then dry tumbling.

You might find it easier/more efficient to use a Universal Depriming die to deprime before tumbling the first time...you won't need a second wash. You don't mention using Lemi-shine, so I'll recommend that...it cuts the carbon. I also use Armorall Wash & Wax in place of Dawn as it leaves a slight protective film on the cases

Never heard of a universal depriming die? I’ll definitely look into that. I was cleaning before depriming because I didn’t want to wear out my sizing die. But that sounds like a great idea. I could run it on a single stage so I don’t have to remove my sizing die.

I’ve been using Dawn on the first wash, a Franklin Arsenal brass cleaner on the second.

So you’re saying if I continue to wash twice, use the Armoral product on the first wash, Lemi- Shine on the second?

But if I only wash once, the Lemi-Shine?

The initial wash has actually been 2 washes. After an hour I dump the liquid out, rinse once, then refill and tumble another hour.

If I can save a step, it’s worth the price of a die. And I’ll only have to separate media once. Even with the magnet, it’s time consuming. And it takes a long time to dry the first time because the primer is still in.

Thanks for the tips.

 

[kalielkslayer]

Since you haven't mentioned it, I'll just ask...Which Springfield? Springfield makes/imports many different models with the two main lines being their 1911 and their XD models

Like I said, I’m not familiar with Springfields at all. My son has the XD compact, my step son has the XD full-size.

 

[Blue68f100]

Never heard of a universal depriming die? I’ll definitely look into that. I was cleaning before depriming because I didn’t want to wear out my sizing die. But that sounds like a great idea. I could run it on a single stage so I don’t have to remove my sizing die.

I’ve been using Dawn on the first wash, a Franklin Arsenal brass cleaner on the second.

So you’re saying if I continue to wash twice, use the Armoral product on the first wash, Lemi- Shine on the second?

But if I only wash once, the Lemi-Shine?

The initial wash has actually been 2 washes. After an hour I dump the liquid out, rinse once, then refill and tumble another hour.

If I can save a step, it’s worth the price of a die. And I’ll only have to separate media once. Even with the magnet, it’s time consuming. And it takes a long time to dry the first time because the primer is still in.

Thanks for the tips.

No, Only one wash cycle.

Use a mix of water, Lime-Shine and Armoral W&W. Only takes a small amount (1/4 tsp) of Lime-Shine (citric acid). I don't measure the W&W I just add a blob like I would be washing a car. If your pins come out black/dirty you did not use enough. Better to be over than under. Most any Car wash and wax product will work. The wax/polymer finish protect the brass and gives you a little lubrication during the sizing. With the primers out you will actually get all the soap out, not being trapped in the primer pocket.

I'm probably using a different procedure for rinse than most. I have a short hose that I connect to my faucet. Turn the water on full, then stuff it into the brass and move it around till the water coming out is clean. Less than 2 min and your done. The turbulence helps flush the soap out. Drain then use your media separator to remove the pins. You can use your strong magnet to locate pins still hidden within the brass. I have found that using the separator running it different directions dislodges the pins and get all of them out. But that is something you have to figure what works best for you. I anneal all of my rifle brass so if any have slipped buy I find them then.

The universal de-primer is the only way to go. If you dealing with small 22 cal brass you need one that covers them all. I actually have 2, 1 (rcbs) that is spring loaded which does not work with 223/556. Then a std one without the spring for the smaller cal sizes. The spring loaded one will prevent primers from sticking to the tip.

 

[kalielkslayer]

No, Only one wash cycle.

Use a mix of water, Lime-Shine and Armoral W&W. Only takes a small amount (1/4 tsp) of Lime-Shine (citric acid). I don't measure the W&W I just add a blob like I would be washing a car. If your pins come out black/dirty you did not use enough. Better to be over than under. Most any Car wash and wax product will work. The wax/polymer finish protect the brass and gives you a little lubrication during the sizing. With the primers out you will actually get all the soap out, not being trapped in the primer pocket.

I'm probably using a different procedure for rinse than most. I have a short hose that I connect to my faucet. Turn the water on full, then stuff it into the brass and move it around till the water coming out is clean. Less than 2 min and your done. The turbulence helps flush the soap out. Drain then use your media separator to remove the pins. You can use your strong magnet to locate pins still hidden within the brass. I have found that using the separator running it different directions dislodges the pins and get all of them out. But that is something you have to figure what works best for you. I anneal all of my rifle brass so if any have slipped buy I find them then.

The universal de-primer is the only way to go. If you dealing with small 22 cal brass you need one that covers them all. I actually have 2, 1 (rcbs) that is spring loaded which does not work with 223/556. Then a std one without the spring for the smaller cal sizes. The spring loaded one will prevent primers from sticking to the tip.

Thanks again!

 

[Dudedog]

They are 124 grain bullets. My Hornady 7th Edition shows 5.9 grains of HS6 as max. My Nosler book was like .1 grain difference. I searched online and saw people running 5.5 grains on their 124 gr loads.

Hmm never used HS6 so I don't know charge wise but Hodgdons data was showing quite a bit more with a 125 FMJ start 6.4 MAX 6.8
Maybe someone who uses HS6 can give you some info on what they use.
Interesting your manual says 5.9 as the MAX while Hodgdon shows 6.4 as Start. Sure they are different bullets but that's a big spread. (on MAX less than another start)
Was the load in Hornady for a XTP? Sometimes data for XTPs is less than other bullets the dame weight.
If you are not using XTPs it could be that it is safe to use data more in line with Hodgdon.

A chrono would help so you could see what kind of vels you are getting with 5.8

 

[kalielkslayer]

Hmm never used HS6 so I don't know charge wise but Hodgdons data was showing quite a bit more with a 125 FMJ start 6.4 MAX 6.8
Maybe someone who uses HS6 can give you some info on what they use.
Interesting your manual says 5.9 as the MAX while Hodgdon shows 6.4 as Start. Sure they are different bullets but that's a big spread. (on MAX less than another start)
Was the load in Hornady for a XTP? Sometimes data for XTPs is less than other bullets the dame weight.
If you are not using XTPs it could be that it is safe to use data more in line with Hodgdon.

A chrono would help so you could see what kind of vels you are getting with 5.8

I was gonna chrono them today but with wind and snow today, I’ll wait until I get a break.

The data was for the XTP, 124 grains. Max for the 115 was 6.4 grains.

 

[9mmepiphany]

So you’re saying if I continue to wash twice, use the Armoral product on the first wash, Lemi- Shine on the second?

But if I only wash once, the Lemi-Shine?

The initial wash has actually been 2 washes. After an hour I dump the liquid out, rinse once, then refill and tumble another hour.

If I can save a step, it’s worth the price of a die. And I’ll only have to separate media once. Even with the magnet, it’s time consuming. And it takes a long time to dry the first time because the primer is still in.

Allow me to explain what each component of the process does and it may make it easier to make your own decisions.

I only tumble once. If the cases are caked/filled with mud or sand, I'll soak them in plain water to rinse them out before cleaning.

When wet tumbling, I put both Lemi Shine and Armorall in the water. The Lemi Shine loosens the carbon, the W&W (or any detergent) allows it to slide off and stay suspended in the water...that is why you don't want to leave you cases sitting in the water after it stops agitating. The pins rub against the cases to get into hard to reach spaces (primer pockets). The amount of Lemi Shine you use is dependent on the hardness of your water.

I decap the cases using a Universal Decapping die if I'm going to be using pins (I don't always) . If I don't want to use pins, I don't decap before tumbling. Not using pins means that the interior of cases and primer pockets won't be as clean, but the outside will be comparable to when using pins

 

[kalielkslayer]

Allow me to explain what each component of the process does and it may make it easier to make your own decisions.

I only tumble once. If the cases are caked/filled with mud or sand, I'll soak them in plain water to rinse them out before cleaning.

When wet tumbling, I put both Lemi Shine and Armorall in the water. The Lemi Shine loosens the carbon, the W&W (or any detergent) allows it to slide off and stay suspended in the water...that is why you don't want to leave you cases sitting in the water after it stops agitating. The pins rub against the cases to get into hard to reach spaces (primer pockets). The amount of Lemi Shine you use is dependent on the hardness of your water.

I decap the cases using a Universal Decapping die if I'm going to be using pins (I don't always) . If I don't want to use pins, I don't decap before tumbling. Not using pins means that the interior of cases and primer pockets won't be as clean, but the outside will be comparable to when using pins

I appreciate your comments. I ordered RCBS dies today to deprime before tumbling. I’ll use the pins for all of my tumbling since I’m extremely impressed on how well they do.

my water is right at 7.0 PH, so neither hard or soft.

I know this since it’s well water, and I have aquariums.

 

[lordpaxman]

They are 124 grain bullets. My Hornady 7th Edition shows 5.9 grains of HS6 as max.

That manual has 4 different bullets at 3 different COLs. What COL did you choose? A shorter COL will produce higher pressure/velocity than a longer COL with other factors the same. Still, as @Dudedog pointed out, Hodgdon online has considerably different powder weights and COLs. It would probably be best to chrono your loads and see what the velocities are but definitely could be a weaker load is not cycling the slide enough to catch the lock back.

You should do the following with the gun that doesn’t lock back: First, clear it and no live ammo in the area, for each mag, insert the mag, rack the slide and verify the slide locks back. Rack it slow and fast and insure the mag follower is pushing up enough on the slide lock to activate it. If it locks back, 99% certain it’s an underpowered load, or a limp wrist. If it doesn’t lock back, could be a weak mag spring (can just stretch it), bad follower, or the slide lock lever could be broken or binding.

Not sure how to tell how much crimp is enough?

Crimp does not increase neck tension or prevent setback, that’s determined at the sizing step. The only thing crimp does is remove the bell so the round will chamber. Do not make the mistake of increasing crimp to try to prevent setback. Only crimp enough so the round will gauge or chamber properly. A dimension thrown around is about .376- .378”, but more accurately it’s Bullet diameter + 2xwall thickness - .001(or .002).

I didn’t chronograph the loads, or test for accuracy. Maybe I should have? Accuracy wasn’t a concern for me with plinking ammo. But Standard Deviation would have told me how consistent the round was.

If you have a chrono or access to one it can help. The published data lists velocities, but just be aware their setup for measuring velocity is different than your gun so you most likely won’t match theirs. If you’re velocity is faster than theirs, that’s a reason to back off the load. Also, the SD describes how consistently your reloads performed, but may not relate to accuracy or precision on target. Always trust the paper target to tell you that.

 

[CMB]

Second question, yes. Not sure how to tell how much crimp is enough? What I’ve been doing when I build my dummy round is tapping it lightly with a small crescent wrench I use to adjust the dies, 3Xs. If the OAL changes, I add more crimp. I’m not pounding on it, but I’m sure I’m hitting it with more force than the setback in the magazine? BUT I just thought I should be measuring length of a round in the magazine after firing 8-10 rounds?"

Thanks for your input.


- still learning how to quote text....... above is a quote


Crimping the round does many things. Yes, people do it to keep the bullet from "setting back" but it also changes the pressure characteristic of the burn. It doesn't take much change in crimp to see the difference. Are you inspecting the case after firing for a complete burn, "soot" levels or signs of pressure? This may be getting a bit off topic. Sorry