Questions about cylinder bolt on model 10

[Alex]

I'm rebuilding a S&W model 10 for possible use in IDPA, right now I'm correcting the timing on it. There is some play in cylinder which is being caused the worn cylinder bolt not seating positively in the notches on the cylinder. I figure I'll probably have to replace this part, but my question is has anyone ever soldered an additional piece of steel to the area over the opening for the bolt in the frame to give the bolt some extra support? Nonte talked about it to some length in his book, but I've never run across anyone who has actually done it, is this a good idea?

 

[bountyhunter]

Solder is too soft and would never last. As the cylinder rotates the bolt stops it and absorbs the inertia, effectively "hammering" against the LH side of the frame opening which eventually widens it some. I assume the proper fix would be to "peen" the frame slot to increase the width and re machine to original specs. There may be a wider bolt available, but I have not heard of one.

BTW: that slot is not the only place that puts play in the cylinder:

1) Worn cylinder notches (against the bolt width). These can be "pressed" to narrow the slots.

2) Hand width (wider hands can be fitted).

3) Hand frame slot wear increasing width (see #2).

4) Wear on the star edges where the hand passes by. New star can be fitted.

Cylinder play at rest isn't real important as long as the lockup is reasonably tight. I have a 686 with about 20k rounds that probably has about .010" side to side cyl play in lockup that still shoots very accurately. To check play in lockup: cock the hammer then pull the trigger to the rear and hold it tight against the rear (hammer all the way forward). Check the cylinder play there. If the gun shoots straight and doesn't shave lead at the cone, the play is probably OK.