Removing S&W J-Frame Side Plate

[Gunmeister]

Anyone know a trick to removing the side plate from an older S&W J-frame revo? This revo's side plate is so finely machined it does not budge with very gentle prying, I'm afraid to pry it too hard for fear of scratching. This piece is about 14 years old and I doubt the side plate has ever been removed. I just want to lube the innards for my own personal satisfaction.
Thanks for your help. John

 

[DR]

Don't pry it. After removing the grips and screws, hold it by the cylinder/topstrap and whack the grip frame with something soft. I use the plastic handle of a screwdriver. A plastic mallet would work as well. It will take several to many whacks. Don't wail on it, just good solid taps and it'll eventually come off.

 

[Gunmeister]

Thanks DR, I'll give it a "whack" this evening. Thanks again, John

 

[Mulliga]

Not to hijack the thread, but how do you go about removing a modern J-Frame side plate? What screw driver should you use (I got a cheap gunsmithing screwdriver set from Wally World and I wonder if it's up to it...)? I want to open it up to clean up the insides a bit, since it is a new revolver.

 

[Old Fuff]

Gentlemen:

You stand an excellent chance of ruining two fine revolvers if you continue. :banghead:

There is a right and wrong way to remove a revolver's sideplate, and the wrong way (trying to pry it off) may end up with a trip back to the factory and a expensive bill.

If you use the search feature on this forum you will find past threads with detailed instructions on how to remove a sideplate. Part of that includes using the correct tools and screwdrivers (obtainable from (www.brownells.com).


In any case, it is not necessary to remove the sideplate to lubricate the internal lockwork. Simply cock the hammer, put two or three drops of oil (and no more) down in front of the hammer face, and cycle the action a few times.

 

[mainmech48]

More important than brand or make of the screwdriver is that it fits the slot completely: width, breadth, and depth.

Blades with a slight hollow grind are best, in that the sides are parallel rather than tapered as they are on most common screwdrivers.

Ditto to what dr said re: removing the side panel. Just a few light taps should do it.

If you should opt to do a detailed disassembly of the lockwork on your "J" frame, take care with the spring in the rebound slide. It is stronger than it looks, can easily be launched into oblivion if you're the least bit careless with it, and can be a real PITA to remove or replace.

Brownell's has a special tool that makes a world of difference and costs less than $17 (last time I looked, anyway) + S&H. Highly recommended, especially if your frustration tolerance is average-to-low

 

[ruger357]

I have to agree with Old Fuff. I have always lubed my S&W's without having to take the side plate off. Also if you don't use the right screw driver as mainmech48 states you can easily mess the screw heads up.

 

[isp2605]

And a 14 yr old revolver isn't old....

 

[Standing Wolf]

The bigger the hammer, the sooner you'll have the gun apart.

 

[Gunmeister]

I get the point.

Thanks, JW

 

[JohnKSa]

Remove the grips.

Carefully remove the sideplate screws using a screwdriver that fits them perfectly. They will look pretty bad after this operation if you try to use a screwdriver that's not matched to the screws.

Tap the butt of the pistol grip on a hard wooden surface and the sideplate will gradually loosen and come off.

 

[Denko]

Is there a way to lube a model 642 without removing the sideplate?

 

[oweno]

642? - You've got to remove the sideplate to lube the piece. What I did was remove the grips, remove the screws, then tap the INSIDE of the side plate (from the other side, you can see it once you get the grips off). I tapped it with the plastic handle of a really small screwdriver...side plate came right off.

Note that there's a hook thingie on the top rear of the sideplate. When you put the plate back one, the hook goes in first. You'll see it.

And the innerds of my 642 were as dry as a bone. Yes, I know that one should not over-lube here but a *little* is OK. I used Militec oil & grease where needed. Made a huge difference.

good luck

 

[Old Fuff]

Denko:

The proper way to remove the sideplate is NOT to tap or pry it out with pressure from the inside. The result may be a sprung or bent sideplate, especially if it is made of some material besides steel. In addition, if it is one of the newer guns you may unexpectedly find yourself with some loose parts on the floor (or wherever).

If one is determined to disassemble S&W revolvers they should avail themselves of a book: "The S&W Revolver - A shop Manual" by Jerry Kuhnhausen. It can be obtained at (www.brownells.com) or (www.gunbooks.com) as well as (www.amazon.com). It is written in ordinary english and well illustrated. The cost of the book (about $30.00) will be far less then the cost of professional repairs if someone's home gunsmithing goes bad.

Yes, you can lubricate a revolver with an inclosed hammer. Remove the grips, point the muzzle down, and put several drops of oil down inside around the lockwork.

 

[Pistol Toter]

You better listen to Old Fuff!! There is a right way and ther is a wrong way and he is telling you right. Do some research and get the proper tools and some instructional material. Read and study, study and read, start slow, you can mess more up than you can repair if your not careful and understanding of what your doing. I always put a lot more time in contemplation of the a process than it actually takes and as a result nearly never have an OH NO!

 

[Denko]

Thanks Old Fluff,I will head your advice.I just squirted some breakfree in there and will call it good.The excess is draining out now,not precise but safe.I have daily reinforcement in my lack of mechanical ability.I just got another Brownells catalog yesterday,so I will check out the book and tool.Thanks to all who replied.

 

[Old Fuff]

If you want to spread the lubricant around and have one available, give it a shot with an air hose. A shot in the back where you put the oil should spread it around, and double-actioning the trigger a few times will do the rest.

After you get the manual, and a set of S&W-sized screwdriver you can go further if you want to.

Safe is better then sorry ...

 

[ChuckB]

The Jerry Miculek DVD about revolver trigger jobs is a great guide to S&W disassembly/re-assembly.

Chuck

 

[MillCreek]

I, personally, having heard many horror stories about mangled sideplates, and teeny tiny parts launching themselves into the air, never to be seen again, have foregone removing any of my sideplates. This has been a struggle at times, but I go back and read the threads about chewed up screws, gouged sideplate edges from prying, and lost springs, and I feel better about my decision!

When I feel the need to do a really thorough clean and lube, I remove the grips, and using a nozzle straw, spray gun cleaner way up into the lockwork and up behind the trigger to remove any debris or congealed lube. I do this a couple of times, cycling the action between sprays, and shake vigorously to remove any debris. I then spray some CLP into the lockwork, cycle the action several times, open the cylinder and prop the revolver upright and muzzle down to allow excess lubricant to drain.

This seems to work just fine for me, at least as far as I can see.

 

[popeye]

I've been buying /shooting S&W's for .....pause while I remember how old I am...oh yeah 58, so 37 yrs. I've got a LOT of receipts to prove that. I've never taken a side plate off. The only plate screw I've taken off is the front one to take the crane/cyl out. I NEVER buy used guns with buggered screws unless it's a REAL deal. I use MillCreek's method as it works fine. For the adverage person CLP is A $3.95 trigger job.

Occasionally when I'm deep frying a chicken I'll dunk my SS revolvers in the hot oil to clean and lube them. Don't do this with alloy, or loaded guns! This method also gives an iron boost to your metabolism when you scarf the bird.

 

[Old Fuff]

Millcreek's method used to be the standard with many police departments, most of whom absolutely forbid letting anyone but an armorer remove the sideplate.

Perhaps I should clearify my position. I have no objection to gun owners removing the sideplate and internal parts of a revolver, if ...

THEY HAVE READ A SHOP MANUAL, UNDERSTAND WHAT THEY ARE DOING, AND USE THE CORRECT TOOLS.

Repeatedly removing the sideplate will in time burr the edges and ruin the fine fit. In years past this fitting was so good I have had owners come to me with requests that I return their gun to the factory to have the crack fixed ... Therefore "popping the sideplate" should be avoided when possible.

Edited to add:

Popeye:

You is supposed to poor a bottle of Hoppies into the oil before you dunk the gun ...

 

[popeye]

Popeye:

"You is supposed to poor a bottle of Hoppies into the oil before you dunk the gun ... "

Old Fuff: While I bow to your considerable knowledge, a dab or two of Hoppe's #9 behind the ear of a gentleman at a Bar B Q party will keep the "skeeters" away, I am "agast" at the thought of ingesting it.......though..I will keep it in mind. As I'm a conosewer.

 

[ACORN]

Old Fuff: While I bow to your considerable knowledge, a dab or two of Hoppe's #9 behind the ear of a gentleman at a Bar B Q party will keep the "skeeters" away, I am "agast" at the thought of ingesting it.......though..I will keep it in mind. As I'm a c

Ahhhhh, but a dab behind the ears of a young lady makes her irresistable. Much better than Chanel #5

 

[Denko]

I used Breakfree from a spray can,so it shot in pretty good.I did cycle the action many times.I will use Millcreeks cleaning method in the future.I bought a Grace set of screwdrivers from Brownell's a while back,so you can't tell I ever worked on the gun.I think I will probably never take the sideplate off.A man has to know his limitations.Thanks for all the good info.I will pass on the Hoppes aftershave/cooking oil.

 

[Old Fuff]

>> I will pass on the Hoppes aftershave/cooking oil. <<

Oh (SOB) (WIMPPER) ...

Nobody ever takes my advice ....