Removing S&W J-Frame Side Plate

[telomerase]

.22 springs

The .22 J-frames come with 13-lb mainsprings (for good reason, I know). Does anyone sell a kit that comes with, maybe an 11 pound mainspring? Wolf J-frame kits have 7, 8, and 9-lb.; seems like too big a change.

Also, is there anywhere in a J-frame that one must carefully avoid lubing (sear, perhaps?)

 

[Old Fuff]

I don't know if you're kidding or not, but there is a good reason for a heavier mainspring in .22 R.F. revolvers. The .22 case is made from thicker material then the battery cups in center-fire primers. Thus it takes a harder blow to insure positive ignition.

While you should avoid over-lubrication (that will attrach and hold powder fouling and dirt) there isn't anything within S&W J-frames that you should avoid lubricating.

Brownells has a lubricant specifically made for actions called "Action-Lube Plus" that is particularly good for the purpose. A little dab in the right places makes a world of difference.

 

[telomerase]

proper lube

there is a good reason for a heavier mainspring in .22 R.F. revolvers.

Yes, of course. That's why I have been nonplussed by gunsmiths telling me that it's OK to use an 8-lb 642 spring to replace those in the 651 etc., and I'd like to find an 11-lber. Thanks for the lube tip. -hTERT

 

[Old Fuff]

Now I understand.

You could try an old gunsmith's trick.

Purchase a new stock (13 pound) spring.

Get a long bolt that will pass the the inside of the spring. Put the spring on the bolt, and run a nut down on it untill the spring is fully compressed.

Chuck the bolt up into a lathe, and use a file to remove a little of the spring's outside diameter.

Remove the spring, assemble it into the revolver, and test with several different brands of hi-velocity ammunition.

Also check with Wolff to see if they might make a spring for another application that will work for what you want too do. They might even make something up.

 

[JERRY]

lube?!
im not worried about that, as i can let a few drops of oil run into the works from the trigger area a main spring........


i'd want the side plate off so i could grind down that nub on the lock so i wont have to worry about it engaging when i need it the least!

 

[Old Fuff]

No problem for me ... Mine don't have the lock.

When parts are pressed together under spring pressure ordinary lubricants can be squeezed out. Brownells' "Action-Lube" is compounded to not do this, among other things.

Pop the sideplate if you want, but get a manual and the correct tools first. Otherwise you may have some problems that are more serious then the lock.

 

[MICHAEL T]

I rather Kiss my mother-in-law in public Than remove the side plate of a S&W. The thought of either one scares me

 

[Evil Stepdad]

This may be a stupid question...

Those of you who take off your grips and spray gun cleaner up into the lockworks (rather than risking taking off the sideplate), how do you get the gun cleaner and the gunk it cleaned off out of there?