Sylvan-Forge
Member
Aye, I did not consider that thoroughly and failed to put emphasis on correcting the consequent cylinder endshake. My bad.
10-4
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S&W crane endshake
- Thread starter Daizee
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Sylvan-Forge
Member
Daizee, that sounds plausable to me.
Good pics by the way.
If there is no play in the yoke when it's open when using the standard yoke screw, it sounds like it will definitely need material removal from the yoke screw slot regardless of the method employed.
Are you comfortable doing the work yourself?
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Good pics by the way.
If there is no play in the yoke when it's open when using the standard yoke screw, it sounds like it will definitely need material removal from the yoke screw slot regardless of the method employed.
Are you comfortable doing the work yourself?
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earplug
Member
Peening the yoke botton is a easy, operation, you will want a fine narrow file to finish the job. A smooth faced machinest hammer 8-10 oz.
Often you won't have to remove any metal if you peen and check often.
Your striking downward, on the edge of the botton while it is pointing upwards.
Often you won't have to remove any metal if you peen and check often.
Your striking downward, on the edge of the botton while it is pointing upwards.
Sylvan-Forge
Member
Daizee, S&W sent me the wrong screws so be sure to verify your order with them.
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d'oh!
are they going to send the right ones?
I'm going to have to delay the endshake removal. My 1911 just threw a rod and the Model-10 is my only remaining plausible IDPA-legal gun. harumph.
When I start whacking on the thing I'll send post the results to this thread.
Sylvan, if you get the right screws, can you post the dims?
-Daizee
are they going to send the right ones?
I'm going to have to delay the endshake removal. My 1911 just threw a rod and the Model-10 is my only remaining plausible IDPA-legal gun. harumph.
When I start whacking on the thing I'll send post the results to this thread.
Sylvan, if you get the right screws, can you post the dims?
-Daizee
Webbj0219
Member
Are we aloud to post a video link? Well here goes, if this isnt aloud im sorry. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xmYzAVgDBkY
Sylvan-Forge
Member
Daizee, these very well could be the right screws for your gun.
The part number is 05049 on the baggy and 050490701 on the packing list.
I checked that number against S&W's RevPartsList_Retail.pdf and found that it's called an endshake screw (also listed is the yoke screw) for the model 10. I presume I was supposed to get yoke screw assemblies since I have a 10-14 and the screws have a little spring loaded guide inside 'em.
The screws that were sent measure as follows:
Overall length 0.365"
Thread diameter 0.123"
Pilot diameter 0.103 & 0.104"
Anyhow, if you think they might work, pm me with your address and I'll send them to you to test out.
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The part number is 05049 on the baggy and 050490701 on the packing list.
I checked that number against S&W's RevPartsList_Retail.pdf and found that it's called an endshake screw (also listed is the yoke screw) for the model 10. I presume I was supposed to get yoke screw assemblies since I have a 10-14 and the screws have a little spring loaded guide inside 'em.
The screws that were sent measure as follows:
Overall length 0.365"
Thread diameter 0.123"
Pilot diameter 0.103 & 0.104"
Anyhow, if you think they might work, pm me with your address and I'll send them to you to test out.
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Sylvan-Forge
Member
Indeed!
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Sylvan, here are my yoke screw measurements. Sorry it took so long.
OAL: 0.371
Thread diameter: 0.120 (though the threads aren't sharp anymore)
Pilot diameter: 0.097
So it looks like the pilot on your screws is several thousandths thicker.
That seems consistent with an oversize yoke screw for a 10-8.
-Daizee
OAL: 0.371
Thread diameter: 0.120 (though the threads aren't sharp anymore)
Pilot diameter: 0.097
So it looks like the pilot on your screws is several thousandths thicker.
That seems consistent with an oversize yoke screw for a 10-8.
-Daizee
Sylvan-Forge
Member
No worries Daizee.
Looks like these are the right part #.
Offer still stands if you want to test these before purchasing from S&W.
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Looks like these are the right part #.
Offer still stands if you want to test these before purchasing from S&W.
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Sylvan-Forge
Member
Got it and reply sent.
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So Sylvan's screws arrived today and I just checked 'em out against the gun. I got the camera out and everything, but what really is there to see?
Sure enough, the pilot on the screw I pulled from the bag calip'd at 0.104, several thousandths thicker than mine.
I popped the old screw out, the new one in, and lo and behold, I could feel some resistance while tightening it. In fact, I decided it would be clever to tighten the screw with the cylinder open so that it would be less likely to drive metal off of the yoke button where the screw holds it tight in the closed position.
Voila! No more yoke endshake. Tho it turns out that I can tighten the screw to the point where the cylinder doesn't open! hm. So the snugness will probably keep it in without driving it down all the way. Some locktite might be a good idea, tho that will be irritating come cleaning time. For now I'm going to give the gun a go - maybe next weekend's IDPA. My usual centerfire range is closed for the season.
This seems like a super-easy fix for a gun with a worn yoke button, and now looking at it closely, and dragging a fine tool across its bearing surface, I can see that it is indeed worn. The long-term fix is clearly to either replace (eek!) the yoke or to do the poundy fix to peen it back into a better position. But for speed, cost, and risk, these oversize screws are hard to beat.
All I did was swap a screw, but I learned a ton!
Thanks, Sylvan!! I'll send the other two screws back to you in the baggie.
-Daizee
Sure enough, the pilot on the screw I pulled from the bag calip'd at 0.104, several thousandths thicker than mine.
I popped the old screw out, the new one in, and lo and behold, I could feel some resistance while tightening it. In fact, I decided it would be clever to tighten the screw with the cylinder open so that it would be less likely to drive metal off of the yoke button where the screw holds it tight in the closed position.
Voila! No more yoke endshake. Tho it turns out that I can tighten the screw to the point where the cylinder doesn't open! hm. So the snugness will probably keep it in without driving it down all the way. Some locktite might be a good idea, tho that will be irritating come cleaning time. For now I'm going to give the gun a go - maybe next weekend's IDPA. My usual centerfire range is closed for the season.
This seems like a super-easy fix for a gun with a worn yoke button, and now looking at it closely, and dragging a fine tool across its bearing surface, I can see that it is indeed worn. The long-term fix is clearly to either replace (eek!) the yoke or to do the poundy fix to peen it back into a better position. But for speed, cost, and risk, these oversize screws are hard to beat.
All I did was swap a screw, but I learned a ton!
Thanks, Sylvan!! I'll send the other two screws back to you in the baggie.
-Daizee
earplug
Member
Peen the screw?
Just a idea, I wonder if peening the unthreaded end of the screw would be possible to remove end play. Screws are much less in cost then a yoke.
Just a idea, I wonder if peening the unthreaded end of the screw would be possible to remove end play. Screws are much less in cost then a yoke.
Sylvan-Forge
Member
Daizee, good to hear it's working and thank you for following up here.
I'll let you know when they show up.
If you have any more findings, please let us know.
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I'll let you know when they show up.
If you have any more findings, please let us know.
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