S&W Model 10

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jr_roosa

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I've got a pile of .38spl components on my reloading bench and nothing to shoot them with. I'm thinking that a new Model 10 is the way to go.

I like that it's fairly inexpensive for a S&W, it takes +P, and it's blue. I wish it had adjustable sights, but it's going to be a plinker/wife's HD gun that she'll never bother to learn to shoot. I was thinking about a .357, but I just don't think I'll ever use it for anything but .38 so why bother paying a premium.

Any problems with current production Model 10s I should be aware of?

Any other guns in the same price range I should consider?

If I find an older used one, about when did they start being rated for +P? Are these guns marked as +P on the barrel?

Thanks for your help.

-J.
 
Any Smith model 10 and so marked on the frame is suitable for +P ammo. This started in 1957. If you want a Smith K frame with an adjustable sight there are the models 14 and 15. The 14 is a six in. barrel target gun while the 15 usually is a four inch gun. There are also stainless steel versions of the 10 and 15, the 64 and 67 respectively. Some people get bent out of shape over current production Smiths because they have MIM parts and a built-in safety lock. If you can get an older model 10 in good shape you'll pay a lot less.

Also Ruger makes a good competitive revolver in the discontinued Security Six line and the current GP100 line.
 
You might check with CDNN, they were selling nice LEO trade in Model 65's for around $300 IIRC. Nothing inherently wrong with the new Model 10 (except that lawyer lock) but you could save a bunch if you go used.
 
Try to find an older Model 10, maybe 1970's or earlier. IMO, they are much smoother guns, they will shoot +P's forever, and they arebetter made than the newer ones (again, IMO)
I have owned a lot of K-frame S&W's over the last 40 years, and have not yet had one that did not shoot well.
FWIW, my wife has an older Model 15 4", and she loves it. It used to be mine.


mark
 
Want a M10, pay the premium and get a pre-lock (they're sorta high for what they are down here). I have an early 60s production M10, don't need no stinkin' lock. Thing shoots quite accurately and it's tight, perfectly timed, excellent shape. It was my grandpa's and he got it from a sheriff who'd not had it that long. The round count on it is very low. The forcing cone cracked on it and I replaced the pencil barrel with a heavy barrel. I prefer the balance of the heavy barrel, but YMMV. Threre are all variants of barrel length to choose from on the used market. Just check it out well for timing, cylinder gap, end shake, and such before purchase.

I don't really see why you wouldn't want a good used M13 or other K frame .357 if you found a good price on one. You don't HAVE to shoot magnums in it and pay no penalty for the .357 chambering, same gun, essentially.
 
Jew don nee no stinkin a jus a bull sights.:D

Mod10targetclose.gif

30yardSW.gif

Seriously though the Model 10 (K Frame) and it's adjustable sight variations are great guns.
I've had the above Model 10 since 1960. It's had untold numbers of rounds through it and probably shoots better today then when it was new.

Before I'd buy a new Smith with the internal lock, I'd would (and I do) shop around for a nice used gun.
 
I have several of the K & J frames over the years. Usually you can try different weight bullets and get one to shoot on for up/down. If it shoots left/right the barrel needs turned slightly to adjust. I qualified with a 4" 15 many years ago. I haven't seen many offered but I would look at the 3" hvy barrel. I have a 3 " model 60 j frame with adj site and its sweet. I haven't had any troubles with the new Smiths, I do like the old Smiths better Kinda like riding a Japanese motorcycle.:p


Jim
 
Ron in PA:

Just out of curiosity, what is the difference between the last M&P made before the Model 10 stamp was applied and the first one stamped Model 10 that makes the latter suitable for +P ammo?

I ask because I know of absolutely no differences in dimensions, metallurgy or engineering between the two guns. Since +P would not exist for about 20 years when the model numbers were first stamped, it seems unlikely that S&W had this ammo in mind when they began using the model numbers in 1957.

Why is the use of model numbers a benchmark?

BTW- Here's my 1942 M&P pictured with the 500 rounds of factory +P and some of the 600 rounds of my own +P+ loads (125@1150) that were fired through the gun to see if anything bad would happen.

Not surprising at all (at least not to me), nothing did.

I still don't understand where this "model marked is OK" standard originated since it seems to have no basis in reality.

Oh well...


standard.jpg
 
I still don't understand where this "model marked is OK" standard originated since it seems to have no basis in reality.
Click to expand...

I agree with you completely. I have heard it stated the factory cs reps used that as a "benchmark" a while back and told people that when they called. I have heard first hand recently that cs people (or at least one) has stated "anything not pinned." as the new .38 rule on +p. My theory is that they are simply picking a clearly identifiable date a few decades past and handing that out as a guideline, with the benchmark "rolling." Is it policy? Probably not - just repeated statements from one CS person that get repeated and repeated.

My personal take is that an M&P in good condition past S/N 316,500 or wherever it is they standardized the heat treating in the early 20s is OK. Here's my 5" M&P, 1947.

IMGP2345.jpg
 
Every serious shooter should have at least one good Model 10 in their collection. S&W colectors should have more than one. They are the backbone of the S&W line-up. I only have one, a heavy barrel, but it is a dream. I would shoot the Virginia Armed Security Officer's Course (every year) back in the early 90's and score a perfect 300 with mine.
 
Thanks everybody.

Found an ugly used one today for $229. Really nice trigger, but unfortunately the inside of the barrel was a disaster so I left it there. They had a shiny nickel one too, but that's just not my style.

I think I'll hold out for a new one. I don't mind the lock as much as I like being able to send it back to the factory if something goes wrong later. It would be my first revolver and I don't know the first thing about how to check the timing and the trigger for problems. If I end up hooked on revolvers, maybe I'll trade it in on a nice target gun when I have a little more $$ in my pocket.

Maybe if I come across a few more used ones and one looks really nice I'll change my mind.

Thanks again.

-J.
 
Found an ugly used one today for $229. Really nice trigger, but unfortunately the inside of the barrel was a disaster so I left it there. They had a shiny nickel one too, but that's just not my style.
Click to expand...

If the action worked, the barrels are available pretty cheap, or at least used to be. However, here, and it's regional, good ones start about 300. Anything less and your "wore out" warnings should go off. LOL Now, if you wanted a snub, a good functioning gun with a worn out 4" or something barrel is an option because you can buy the 2" barrels and 2" M10s are at least a hundred more in any sort of decent condition. Might be worth buying one with a worn barrel and fitting a 2" new barrel to it if you could get the gun cheap enough. Personally, I have a 4" heavy barrel and don't want to change it, but I'd like a 2" snub M10, would probably carry it some. I'd really want a round butt, though, and chances are a longer barrel gun would be a square butt. :banghead:

All that said, and I know people will jump on this, but the most accurate DA revolver I have is a 4" Taurus M66 .357. It puts 6 rounds into an inch and that's about all I can do at 25 yards with iron sights. It's a half inch more accurate at that range than my M10 and does equally well with a good .357 magnum load, trigger is just as slick, adjustable sights. I really like that gun. It out-shoots that M10 and my old M19 K frame .357. I also have a 3" variant, an older gun with hammer block lock work. That one, the trigger is not as slick as the Smith and Wesson, but it's just as accurate. Both were bought used, though. I don't really like buying revolvers new anymore. :D I gave 200 for the newer 4" and 180 for the 3". Used Tauri are in less demand, therefore command lower prices. That's a good thing for the used buyer, but for the new gun buyer it means you're going to have more depreciation than a Smith. I'd rather have a pre-lock Taurus than a post-lock Smith, though, myself.

Most of my center fire DA revolver shooting is done with a Taurus revolver. My M10 is still low in round count. I'd never sell it, it being an inheritance, but I probably wouldn't sell it anyway. It's a damned nice gun and like someone said, every serious shouter should own one.
 
I was talking to the guy at the shop about Taurus, since my gunsmith likes their 1911s.

The thing that came up was that some are great, some aren't, and it's hard to tell without shooting them.

Comes back to my difficulty judging the quality of a revolver. I'd be pretty sad if I got one home and it turned out to need $200 of work or 2 months back at the factory to get it right.

We'll see.

-J.
 
Saxon Pig: Just quoting the Smith and Wesson company advice on 38 special +P ammo that's been standard since the late 1970s or early 1980s. It may well be the case that you are correct, after all there's only a few thousand psi difference between the standard and +P ammo. It's possible that Smith chose the distinction between the M&P 38s and the model 10 38s just to make it easier for them to have some benchmark, rather than choosing the date or s/n when cylinders were first heat treated. It is interesting that Colt claimed increased wear and tear when shooting their small frame revolvers with +P.
 
JG sales up in Prescott has a ton of used Smith's in stock, with model 10's going for around 180-220. May be worth a trip up there....
 
I was talking to the guy at the shop about Taurus, since my gunsmith likes their 1911s.

The thing that came up was that some are great, some aren't, and it's hard to tell without shooting them.

Comes back to my difficulty judging the quality of a revolver. I'd be pretty sad if I got one home and it turned out to need $200 of work or 2 months back at the factory to get it right.

We'll see.
Click to expand...

Don't be surprised with new production Smiths if you have to send THAT back. I've been hearing all sorts of stories. At least the turn around is supposed to be a little quicker. I'd be a little sadder, though, to spend 1K on a revolver and have to send it back, than 400 bucks. They literally don't make 'em like they used to. That's sorta why I prefer to buy used. JMHO The revolver check out listed as a sticky at the top of this forum really isn't THAT difficult. Ain't rocket science. I thoroughly check ANY revolver I buy, regardless of brand, personally.
 
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