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Shellacking a Mosin

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing and Repairs' started by Mosin Bubba, Mar 14, 2013.

  1. Mosin Bubba

    Mosin Bubba Well-Known Member

    I botched a stain job on a Mosin 91/30 stock. I was able to get most of the stain out by using enough paint thinner to kill almost every brain cell I had, but there is still a dark brown tint left behind. So now I was thinking about going and doing a colored shellac finish over the top of it.

    Would this end up looking OK, or would I just be screwing up more? And if it will work out, where can I find some of that Russian red/orange shellac at?

    Thank you
  2. Gottahaveone

    Gottahaveone Well-Known Member

  3. OilyPablo

    OilyPablo Well-Known Member

    Post some pictures. It may be fine, but just dark. Hard to say.

    What look are you trying for?
  4. Mosin Bubba

    Mosin Bubba Well-Known Member

    I don't have any pictures right now, will try to get some up tomorrow or Saturday if that helps.

    I am not really aiming for any particular look; just a gun that looks decent.
  5. akv3g4n

    akv3g4n Well-Known Member

  6. Mosin Bubba

    Mosin Bubba Well-Known Member

    A dumb thought: Would brake cleaner get rid of any of that stain?
  7. akv3g4n

    akv3g4n Well-Known Member

  8. Lucifer_Sam

    Lucifer_Sam Well-Known Member

    Last edited: Mar 15, 2013
  9. brickeyee

    brickeyee Well-Known Member

    Shellac is one of the least protective finishes out there.

    Even a drop of sweat will cause it to blush white if not removed very quickly.
  10. mookiie

    mookiie Well-Known Member

    Brickeye - what would suggest to use instead of shellac?
  11. Racinfan83

    Racinfan83 Well-Known Member

    Clear polyurethane.... If it is too shiny for you - you can dull it up with 0000 steel wool and it will still protect the wood...
  12. akv3g4n

    akv3g4n Well-Known Member

    I'd be careful with that. Poly probably won't be able to handle the heat if you shoot it long enough to heat the barrel up any.
  13. funnelcake

    funnelcake Well-Known Member

    Minwax Antique Furniture Refinisher should pull the old stain out, leave it ready for finishing, and is actually good for the wood.

  14. mookiie

    mookiie Well-Known Member

    What would you suggest instead then?
  15. Tolkachi Robotnik

    Tolkachi Robotnik Well-Known Member

    Suggest boiled linseed oil

    Mosin stocks seem to be open grain. I suspect mine is made of finest Siberian elm. Mine improved a great deal with boiled linseed oil rubbed in. It took the woolly look out and made it a uniform light brown color. It repels water better, instead of soaking it up.
  16. Cosmoline

    Cosmoline Well-Known Member

    Poly based finishes are horrible on mil surps. I just got through sanding off a tru-oil finish that ruined a nice Lithgow SMLE. Poly finish feels wrong, it looks wrong and it's too slick to hold. Use BLO or tung, hand rubbed in thin coats with fine steel wool polish after each. Shellack is another route but I've never tried it. I'd use the real thing. You can find the chips for sale on art sites.
  17. dastardly-D

    dastardly-D Well-Known Member

    What racinfan83 did worked for me on a type 44 and 1 AK !
  18. brickeyee

    brickeyee Well-Known Member

  19. Racinfan83

    Racinfan83 Well-Known Member

    I have done it on a couple guns in the past and working on another one right now. Never had a problem with it. And the nice thing is that if you DON'T like it - get out your sander and fine paper and take it off....
  20. Racinbob

    Racinbob Well-Known Member

    I have sprayed lacquer on many projects. I use satin because I prefer low gloss. I've never seen a problem and they have turned out beautiful but I'm interested to hear what everybody thinks.

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