Highland Ranger
Member
I use miltec stuff on the whole gun - nothing special for the rails and not too much of it in any event - too much = dirt magnet = more wear
Slide Lube For Polymer Framed Pistols
- Thread starter Mike J
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Ivy Mike
Member
Probably a silicone type lubricant. They use a similar product on tires when they come out of the molds.kb2iaw said:
ZeSpectre
Member
Used Breakfree CLP for a long time, then switched to Militec-1, now use WeaponShield CLP. See post # 27 on this thread "What lube is this" for my testing results and opinion.
sm
member
Re: oil not grease
Yep, way I was raised.
Blued guns have some advantages over Steel Guns.
Back in the day, AMT Hardballer - Stainless Steel Guns, were exhibiting galling.
Never had that problem with Blued Guns, due to metallurgy, heat treat, elasticity and all sorts of other words, terms, and what not.
Bluing in essence, is a form of "controlled rust" and offers some (again big words and technical stuff) and ...well...just common sense and inspect and maintain , we never had a problem with Blued Guns.
AMT recommended a Two Cycle motorcycle oil (brand name escapes me) and a touch of Lithium grease on the rails. Oh, and Dexcron Automatic Trans Fluid.
in lieu of the Two Stroke oil ["whichever you have, and most handy to use"]
This was a big "unheard of", putting grease on rails of a pistol at the time.
Shotgun hinge pins, Plastilube in the yellow tubs for M1 and all, grease was done, but on a pistol?
Stainless Steel is "stain" + "less". It will rust.
Galling had to do with again, the Stainless , composition of the steel, heat treat and all. Frame and Slides were the same composition.
Once AMT and other folks doing Stainless changed the Slide and Frames - galling stopped.
Slide was composed of a different metallurgy of "stainless" and the Frames were composed of different properties of "stainless".
RIG, came out with RIG+P to assist with Galling as well.
Great Equipment Race was heating up, lots of money to be made building guns , and Stainless Slides and Frames of same composition , needed RIG+P, or some other "grease" to prevent galling.
Blued Guns never had this 'galling problem", did not have/ still do not have some problems "stainless" guns have.
Even the Colt Lt Wt Commander , Blue steel and aluminum did not / do not have problems.
Even back in the day, folks were shooting 100-300 a day , most every day of the week . Some were putting up to 3,000 rds a week gthru a Stock Colt Series 70, Blue, and not cleaning the guns but once a week.
Just lock the slide back, add OIL to rails, end of muzzle, shut slide, Oil the top of where barrel meets hood, and kept on shooting.
Unwritten Rule : Never show up with a clean gun to compete.
Best Oil: Whatever was in the Shooting Kits, given out, and handy.
Hoppe's Lubricating Oil, LSA, Browning, Kleenbore Formula 3, Outers, Marbles....
Including, Dexcron ATF Fluid in them really neat brass oiler bottles , with a needle spout, the Folks put in the kit.
Best Recall that Gulf Dexcron ATF was only 29 cents a quart at the time.
Exactly what these oilers were filled with.
Rest of that Quart, was for folks to fill whatever bottle they had - as the biggest deal, was what container dispensed oil where one wanted it.
WE really really liked these little brass oilers with a "O" ring.
Guns runs - period. Folks putting a lot of trigger time in, and cleaning cut into shooting and getting good at shooting, with the 3,000 rounds a week.
Shotgun folks were doing this too, no big deal to shoot 8 boxes [200 rounds] or more a day.
Browning O/U shotgun said to NOT use grease on hinge pins...just use the Browning Oil.
Blue Steel guns, running and gunning, and high round counts.
1911s, BHPs, Smith & Wesson Semi's...
The Colt 1911s of Stainless Steel, never galled, as the Slide and Frame were of different properties.
Polymer: Supposed to be "better" - right?
Ya'll gonna let a old fashioned , blue steel 1911, BHP with just ATF, Browning gun oil , Formula 3, Hoppe's, Singer Sewing Machine Oil, LSA, ...
best ya?
I mean all this Before Don Yoder called me about rust in places doing plating, and the plating salts .
He sent me some, to see how shop equipment held up with this Breakfree stuff...little cough syrup bottle for me to try.
But I recall the day I/ we playing with a AMT Hardballer and we had dunked it in gasoline, to finally clean it. Air hosed it off and nobody had any Plastilube, RIG + P , Lubriplate, Lithium and ...one fella had just had his truck's oil changed and lube job at the Ammoco.
Got some of that grease that smushed out from the lube job, and some ATF off his dipstick, lubed her up, loaded her up, and just shot the darn gun...
ran like a top she did.
Yep, way I was raised.
Blued guns have some advantages over Steel Guns.
Back in the day, AMT Hardballer - Stainless Steel Guns, were exhibiting galling.
Never had that problem with Blued Guns, due to metallurgy, heat treat, elasticity and all sorts of other words, terms, and what not.
Bluing in essence, is a form of "controlled rust" and offers some (again big words and technical stuff) and ...well...just common sense and inspect and maintain , we never had a problem with Blued Guns.
AMT recommended a Two Cycle motorcycle oil (brand name escapes me) and a touch of Lithium grease on the rails. Oh, and Dexcron Automatic Trans Fluid.
in lieu of the Two Stroke oil ["whichever you have, and most handy to use"]
This was a big "unheard of", putting grease on rails of a pistol at the time.
Shotgun hinge pins, Plastilube in the yellow tubs for M1 and all, grease was done, but on a pistol?
Stainless Steel is "stain" + "less". It will rust.
Galling had to do with again, the Stainless , composition of the steel, heat treat and all. Frame and Slides were the same composition.
Once AMT and other folks doing Stainless changed the Slide and Frames - galling stopped.
Slide was composed of a different metallurgy of "stainless" and the Frames were composed of different properties of "stainless".
RIG, came out with RIG+P to assist with Galling as well.
Great Equipment Race was heating up, lots of money to be made building guns , and Stainless Slides and Frames of same composition , needed RIG+P, or some other "grease" to prevent galling.
Blued Guns never had this 'galling problem", did not have/ still do not have some problems "stainless" guns have.
Even the Colt Lt Wt Commander , Blue steel and aluminum did not / do not have problems.
Even back in the day, folks were shooting 100-300 a day , most every day of the week . Some were putting up to 3,000 rds a week gthru a Stock Colt Series 70, Blue, and not cleaning the guns but once a week.
Just lock the slide back, add OIL to rails, end of muzzle, shut slide, Oil the top of where barrel meets hood, and kept on shooting.
Unwritten Rule : Never show up with a clean gun to compete.
Best Oil: Whatever was in the Shooting Kits, given out, and handy.
Hoppe's Lubricating Oil, LSA, Browning, Kleenbore Formula 3, Outers, Marbles....
Including, Dexcron ATF Fluid in them really neat brass oiler bottles , with a needle spout, the Folks put in the kit.
Best Recall that Gulf Dexcron ATF was only 29 cents a quart at the time.
Exactly what these oilers were filled with.
Rest of that Quart, was for folks to fill whatever bottle they had - as the biggest deal, was what container dispensed oil where one wanted it.
WE really really liked these little brass oilers with a "O" ring.
Guns runs - period. Folks putting a lot of trigger time in, and cleaning cut into shooting and getting good at shooting, with the 3,000 rounds a week.
Shotgun folks were doing this too, no big deal to shoot 8 boxes [200 rounds] or more a day.
Browning O/U shotgun said to NOT use grease on hinge pins...just use the Browning Oil.
Blue Steel guns, running and gunning, and high round counts.
1911s, BHPs, Smith & Wesson Semi's...
The Colt 1911s of Stainless Steel, never galled, as the Slide and Frame were of different properties.
Polymer: Supposed to be "better" - right?
Ya'll gonna let a old fashioned , blue steel 1911, BHP with just ATF, Browning gun oil , Formula 3, Hoppe's, Singer Sewing Machine Oil, LSA, ...
best ya?
I mean all this Before Don Yoder called me about rust in places doing plating, and the plating salts .
He sent me some, to see how shop equipment held up with this Breakfree stuff...little cough syrup bottle for me to try.
But I recall the day I/ we playing with a AMT Hardballer and we had dunked it in gasoline, to finally clean it. Air hosed it off and nobody had any Plastilube, RIG + P , Lubriplate, Lithium and ...one fella had just had his truck's oil changed and lube job at the Ammoco.
Got some of that grease that smushed out from the lube job, and some ATF off his dipstick, lubed her up, loaded her up, and just shot the darn gun...
ran like a top she did.
+1 on Milspec LSA There is no reason to use anything else."
I just prefer something that is not ridiculously overpriced.
Even at $14 a quart that is $56 a gallon.
We even have a new name "synthetic metal conditioner".
"LSA has undergone the most extensive development and testing on the planet and it is the best."
And since none of this has been published in any per reviewed journals it is just marketing BS.
Probably why the stuff is so overpriced.
Maybe they add gold dust?
I just prefer something that is not ridiculously overpriced.
Even at $14 a quart that is $56 a gallon.
We even have a new name "synthetic metal conditioner".
"LSA has undergone the most extensive development and testing on the planet and it is the best."
And since none of this has been published in any per reviewed journals it is just marketing BS.
Probably why the stuff is so overpriced.
Maybe they add gold dust?
Brownell's Action Lube, based on a non-petroleum synthetic, works well for me using just the smallest amount (just a very thin film). Also good for sear/trigger/hammer engagement areas. A thin film can also be used to provide finish protection. I've been using the same 2 oz. container for 5 or 10 years.
Nick
Nick
shooter1
Member
Armorall !!! Works great on plastic!!
str1
str1
Ala Dan
Member in memoriam
Another vote for the Tetra Gun Grease~! Works well for all applications,
when coating a semi-auto rail~!
when coating a semi-auto rail~!
Rokman
Member
My poly guns aren't very picky. Just choose one of the many guality gun lubes and remember to not over-do it. Tetra oil would be a good starting place.
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