SW99/P99 Detail Stripping Information?
- Thread starter Higgins
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Mr. Mysterious
Member
How far down you want to strip it? I've only field striped my SW99, the DA/SA is probably a pain to mess with.
I'd like probably just to be able to strip down the slide for cleaning every few thousand rounds.
I don't think the frame/lockwork would need a detail strip often (if at all). But, from owning Glocks, I know things can get gunked up in the slide -striker channel, firing pin block, extractor, et al. - and cause problems.
I could probably figure how to strip the slide, but would rather have proper instructions for doing so. Thanks.
I don't think the frame/lockwork would need a detail strip often (if at all). But, from owning Glocks, I know things can get gunked up in the slide -striker channel, firing pin block, extractor, et al. - and cause problems.
I could probably figure how to strip the slide, but would rather have proper instructions for doing so. Thanks.
Mr. Mysterious
Member
I had a link that described the disassembly of the striker, but for the life of me I can't find it. It was on a Walther faq, but you know the same thing. If I find it I'll post it.
fastbolt
Member
This manual is linked from the Walther America website (S&W), and is in .pdf format. You'll probably have to enlarge (magnify) the pages in order to see them properly.
Check out Page 14 for Walther's instructions on removing the striker unit.
http://www.waltheramerica.com/manuals/P99.pdf
Check out Page 14 for Walther's instructions on removing the striker unit.
http://www.waltheramerica.com/manuals/P99.pdf
Mr. Mysterious
Member
Thanks for the link...that wasn't the one that I had, but it works!
fastbolt
Member
My guess would be that it's a liability concern. They prefer to have it done by the factory or the folks they train as armorers. You know how some folks unfamiliar with a gun, and untrained, can mix things up ... and even lose parts.
The nice thing about the 99 design is that you don't have to disassemble the rest of the slide in order to remove the extractor ... although it involves 'freeing' the firing pin safety plunger & its spring, and the smaller extractor plunger & its spring can be launched off into the nether regions when the extractor is removed (if you're inattentive) ...
The nice thing about the 99 design is that you don't have to disassemble the rest of the slide in order to remove the extractor ... although it involves 'freeing' the firing pin safety plunger & its spring, and the smaller extractor plunger & its spring can be launched off into the nether regions when the extractor is removed (if you're inattentive) ...
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jockeys
Member
but how so?
The nice thing about the 99 design is that you don't have to disassemble the rest of the slide in order to remove the extractor ... although it involves 'freeing' the firing pin safety plunger & its spring, and the smaller extractor plunger & its spring can be launched off into the nether regions when the extractor is removed
ok, but how exactly is the extractor pivot pin and striker safety plunger removed? by driving them out from the top of the slide using the two small holes near the ejection port? I can't figure it out. any help is appreciated.
The nice thing about the 99 design is that you don't have to disassemble the rest of the slide in order to remove the extractor ... although it involves 'freeing' the firing pin safety plunger & its spring, and the smaller extractor plunger & its spring can be launched off into the nether regions when the extractor is removed
ok, but how exactly is the extractor pivot pin and striker safety plunger removed? by driving them out from the top of the slide using the two small holes near the ejection port? I can't figure it out. any help is appreciated.
fastbolt
Member
The firing pin safety plunger and its spring are generally easily removed by pulling them out of their hole after the extractor has been removed, since the plunger usually lifts itself upward enough to be grasped by finger tips. The safety plunger is held in place by the extractor, so once it's depressed and the extractor is removed it's freed, so to speak.
The extractor plunger & its spring (what you called the pivot pin ) will either remain within their hole and need some gentle coaxing, or else they'll be launched outward and away. It's a good idea to keep a fingertip over both plungers as the extractor is removed.
The two itty bitty holes located on the top of the slide, directly above both plungers, are intended to permit the gentle removal of both plungers (if fouling, sludge and whatever keep them stuck in their holes) using a very narrow diameter pin punch (or suitably thin "tool").
S&W has changed the way the extractor springs are oriented within the slide's extractor spring holes, too. They were first installed with the wide end being pressed into the hole in the slide's extractor slot recess. (The extractor springs are slightly 'cone-shaped', being larger at one end than the other, and it's easy to identify which end is which by rolling them across a level surface.) Nowadays armorers are told to install the narrow end of the springs into the holes first, so care must be taken not to let them tip out while reinstalling the extractor.
Care has to be taken to make sure the safety plunger is installed facing the right direction, too. The 'tooth' of the plunger, protruding from the bottom of the slide, must face the outward edge of the slide, and NOT the inside/center of the slide.
The 99 design plunger is held in place by the extractor plunger, which snaps into place through a hole in the extractor as it passes over the plunger as the extractor is reinstalled. The trick is make sure the safety plunger is installed and flush (held down) with the slide before the extractor is fully pressed into place and the extractor is captured by the extractor plunger as the extractor is finally pressed into position. Making sure the end of the extractor spring remains positioned within the slightly recessed area visible on the inside of the extractor's tail is something else to watch during the process, too.
The extractor hook is easily reached and cleaned by brushes without having to remove the extractor, though. It doesn't have to be removed for ordinary cleaning.
Removing and placing the extractor and its two plungers (and the involved three springs), while not a particularly difficult task, can potentially result in lost or damaged parts ... (which isn't good when it somes to reliable & safe functioning) ... if the person doing it isn't familiar with the pistol design and how to properly perform the procedure. Which is to say that it's not recommended as part of the normal cleaning by the user/owner ...
The extractor plunger & its spring (what you called the pivot pin
) will either remain within their hole and need some gentle coaxing, or else they'll be launched outward and away. It's a good idea to keep a fingertip over both plungers as the extractor is removed.The two itty bitty holes located on the top of the slide, directly above both plungers, are intended to permit the gentle removal of both plungers (if fouling, sludge and whatever keep them stuck in their holes) using a very narrow diameter pin punch (or suitably thin "tool").
S&W has changed the way the extractor springs are oriented within the slide's extractor spring holes, too. They were first installed with the wide end being pressed into the hole in the slide's extractor slot recess. (The extractor springs are slightly 'cone-shaped', being larger at one end than the other, and it's easy to identify which end is which by rolling them across a level surface.) Nowadays armorers are told to install the narrow end of the springs into the holes first, so care must be taken not to let them tip out while reinstalling the extractor.
Care has to be taken to make sure the safety plunger is installed facing the right direction, too. The 'tooth' of the plunger, protruding from the bottom of the slide, must face the outward edge of the slide, and NOT the inside/center of the slide.
The 99 design plunger is held in place by the extractor plunger, which snaps into place through a hole in the extractor as it passes over the plunger as the extractor is reinstalled. The trick is make sure the safety plunger is installed and flush (held down) with the slide before the extractor is fully pressed into place and the extractor is captured by the extractor plunger as the extractor is finally pressed into position. Making sure the end of the extractor spring remains positioned within the slightly recessed area visible on the inside of the extractor's tail is something else to watch during the process, too.
The extractor hook is easily reached and cleaned by brushes without having to remove the extractor, though. It doesn't have to be removed for ordinary cleaning.
Removing and placing the extractor and its two plungers (and the involved three springs), while not a particularly difficult task, can potentially result in lost or damaged parts ... (which isn't good when it somes to reliable & safe functioning) ... if the person doing it isn't familiar with the pistol design and how to properly perform the procedure. Which is to say that it's not recommended as part of the normal cleaning by the user/owner ...
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