I'm thinking of getting one of these for my new FN Herstal 308. I really like the donut reticle and non-battery operation. However, I'm trying to determine whether the reticle is designed to be zeroed at 100 meters or something else? And, what is the range of the tick marks (other than the obvious one marked at 600 meters)? I sent two emails to Trijicon via their website and never even got a response. Maybe that tells me something about the company? If anyone has experience with this model or with Trijicon, please let me know (good or bad). Thanks in advance.
Trijicon ACOG TA11C
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JK47
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I have a TA11E on a Armalite AR-10 and a TA11F on a Armalite M-15. They both have the chevrons with zero set at 100 yards (tip of chevron) to the bottom hash mark at 800 yards. Although it doesn't say it in it's description (TA11C), it's set up for a 100 yard zero. The center of the donut is 100, the first hash mark: 400 yards, second: 500 yards and the last two after the 600 would be 700 and 800. That is according to page 11 of the ACOG Operators Manual.
I will tell you that TA11 ACOG is an outstanding scope, as are all of the ACOG's. You can't go wrong. I did however add a kill flash and changed the TA51 flat top mount to a ARMS 19. The reason for that was the knobs on the TA51 would torque loose on the AR-10 from recoil (bipod/prone position).
Anyhow, I would go for it, you won't be disappointed.
I will tell you that TA11 ACOG is an outstanding scope, as are all of the ACOG's. You can't go wrong. I did however add a kill flash and changed the TA51 flat top mount to a ARMS 19. The reason for that was the knobs on the TA51 would torque loose on the AR-10 from recoil (bipod/prone position).
Anyhow, I would go for it, you won't be disappointed.
Interesting choice of scope and rifle. That's going to be fun.
Anyone have any advice on Trijicon ACOG vs Trijicon Accupoint?
Anyone have any advice on Trijicon ACOG vs Trijicon Accupoint?
Depends what you want it to do. If you need bombproof, ACOG. Period. Full stop. If you want variable power and are okay with something that is, by comparison, fragile, you can go with the Accupoint.
This is not a slam on the Accupoint. It is what it is, a reasonably priced, well-made variable power scope. It is by no means chintzy, it's just not the solid hunk of granite that the ACOG is. However, the overwhelmingly vast majority of shooters don't need what the ACOG brings to the table, and the Accupoint is both cheaper and more versatile. But if you expect it to stand up to the same level of abuse, it won't. You need to decide if really need or want that level of durability.
Mike
This is not a slam on the Accupoint. It is what it is, a reasonably priced, well-made variable power scope. It is by no means chintzy, it's just not the solid hunk of granite that the ACOG is. However, the overwhelmingly vast majority of shooters don't need what the ACOG brings to the table, and the Accupoint is both cheaper and more versatile. But if you expect it to stand up to the same level of abuse, it won't. You need to decide if really need or want that level of durability.
Mike
I have Ta31RCO on my M4.I have to say it is an awesome sight.Very clear.I know ACOG's are expensive but I have to say I am VERY glad to have one.Buy with confidence...the ACOG does not disappoint.
JK47, I got an email from a guy at Trijicon saying that the top of the donut is to be zeroed at 100m. That seems to be different than what you're reading from the manual. Any possibility that you could point me to a pdf of the user's manual (specifically page 11). Thanks for your help.
Justin
Moderator Emeritus
Top of donut is 100 meters.
Center is 200.
Bottom is 300.
First hashmark is 400
Then they go in 100 meter increments after that.
You may have to experiment with them, however, to see if you need to hold high or low for a given distance. For instance, with a TA11, I have to hold the 600 meter crosshair high in order to make hits with a 55 grain bullet.
Center is 200.
Bottom is 300.
First hashmark is 400
Then they go in 100 meter increments after that.
You may have to experiment with them, however, to see if you need to hold high or low for a given distance. For instance, with a TA11, I have to hold the 600 meter crosshair high in order to make hits with a 55 grain bullet.
JK47
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Franco, Unfortunately I don't have the manual with me at this time. For whatever reason I read/interpreted the 100 yd zero portion incorrectly. Justin’s info is the same info I got from a google search I just ran. Sorry for the confusion. Thanks Justin.
I've never shot that rifle that you are looking at, but it is a .308 and capable of some reach. I just don't know anything about its accuracy potential. If you can expect some really good accuracy out of it, I'd go with something that will let you stretch it's legs at bit more than the ACOG will.
I have had a few ACOGs and as a package, they are hard to beat. Forged body with a very unique reticle/illumination system, but as far as the optical quality goes, you can do a lot better for the money. I would rate the glass in the ACOGs as being better than average. You have to keep in mind that ACOGs were designed to shoot at people, so if shooting at relatively large targets is all you plan to do, the ACOG will be fine and it will be super tough too.
If man size targets or large steel plates are larger than what you plan to shoot at or if you plan on doing some varmint shooting or precision shooting, I'd look to something else. There are a few scopes that you could check out in the price range of a TA11 that will have better glass. They won't be quite as tough, but they'll be tough enough.
For around $1200, you could be looking at something from Nightforce, US Optics, IOR Valdada, etc, all of which have better glass than an ACOG.
Of course, if you're putting together a "battle" rig, the ACOG will be hard to beat in terms of what it is and what it can take. Although I went to a Nightforce on my precision rig, I still run a little TA44S 1.5X ACOG on my "do everything" carbine. It's a super scope and I love it.
I have had a few ACOGs and as a package, they are hard to beat. Forged body with a very unique reticle/illumination system, but as far as the optical quality goes, you can do a lot better for the money. I would rate the glass in the ACOGs as being better than average. You have to keep in mind that ACOGs were designed to shoot at people, so if shooting at relatively large targets is all you plan to do, the ACOG will be fine and it will be super tough too.
If man size targets or large steel plates are larger than what you plan to shoot at or if you plan on doing some varmint shooting or precision shooting, I'd look to something else. There are a few scopes that you could check out in the price range of a TA11 that will have better glass. They won't be quite as tough, but they'll be tough enough.
For around $1200, you could be looking at something from Nightforce, US Optics, IOR Valdada, etc, all of which have better glass than an ACOG.
Of course, if you're putting together a "battle" rig, the ACOG will be hard to beat in terms of what it is and what it can take. Although I went to a Nightforce on my precision rig, I still run a little TA44S 1.5X ACOG on my "do everything" carbine. It's a super scope and I love it.
Thanks Tony. This rifle is my "all Hell breaks loose" weapon which replaces my old AR-15. I have no intention of hunting with it. I wanted a tough scope that would allow me to reach out 200 yds or so (wouldn't need to defend myself/property much past that) but allows for a red dot (RMR) attachment for close range work. Trijicon seems to fill that gap nicely.
Thanks all for your advice everyone. The only reticle I really like on the ACOG is the donut so I'll likely stick with the TA11C.
Thanks all for your advice everyone. The only reticle I really like on the ACOG is the donut so I'll likely stick with the TA11C.
Thank you very much. Even from this description, it's not entirely clear but I guess you have to assume from the pictures that the top of the donut is 100m. Seems a little dumb as I would think you would design these to be zeroed using the center of the donut at 100m. Anyway, that's helpful so thanks.
Justin
Moderator Emeritus
The ACOG I currently run uses the old-style triangular reticle. Tip of the triangle is zeroed for 100 yards, (I really ought to re-zero at 100 meters, as that makes a difference when shooting longer-range targets) and the rest follow on from there. If you're going to run an ACOG, you will need to practice with it. It took me a couple of months shooting the gun under timed field conditions before I remembered to utilize the BDC reticle.
The ACOG will let you reach out a lot further than that. Ten inch steel plates are dead easy out to 300 yards, steel poppers at 400 yards are doable, and given a solid prone position, good hold, and low wind/good wind read, hitting targets at 600 yards is possible.
However, as you push the distances out further, you will start to see a bit of variation in POA/POI if your load is different from the one recommended by Trijicon.
I could see how it might seem counter-intuitive at first, probably moreso with the circular reticle than the triangle or chevron. However, the thing that's cool about the ACOG is that you don't have to remember which stadia line to use to make a hit at a given distance. You practice with it until your brain realizes that "top of the triangle/chevron/donut = 100, center = 200, bottom = 300" and it makes it a lot easier to know your hold.
The ACOG will let you reach out a lot further than that. Ten inch steel plates are dead easy out to 300 yards, steel poppers at 400 yards are doable, and given a solid prone position, good hold, and low wind/good wind read, hitting targets at 600 yards is possible.
However, as you push the distances out further, you will start to see a bit of variation in POA/POI if your load is different from the one recommended by Trijicon.
I could see how it might seem counter-intuitive at first, probably moreso with the circular reticle than the triangle or chevron. However, the thing that's cool about the ACOG is that you don't have to remember which stadia line to use to make a hit at a given distance. You practice with it until your brain realizes that "top of the triangle/chevron/donut = 100, center = 200, bottom = 300" and it makes it a lot easier to know your hold.
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