If you are ONLY going to shoot 38 Spl cases, go with a 38 Spl revolver. My choice, however, was to buy a .357 and shoot only .357 cases, which I load across the whole spectrum from light plinking loads (using Trailboss powder) through the mid ranges (with Unique) to full power magnums (with 2400). Part of the beauty of a .357 revolver is its versatility. So you have answered your own question: if only shooting 38s, no reason to buy a .357.I have thought about using 357 cases with 38 level loads to keep the cylinder cleaner but asked myself, why not just get a 38 Spl revolver?
Can't tell you what you should do. In your situation, I would buy a .357. If for a dedicated range gun, I might go with a 6" barrel. However, again, my choice is based on my use ... and that would be a 4" barrel, which I find long enough to be range accurate, and short enough to be comfortable in a holster for field and (occasional) concealed carry.What do you think? Should I get a 38 Spl or 357 Mag? How about between 4" and 6" barrel?
I'd start looking at the various Ruger and S&W models. My choice was a 4-inch stainless Ruger GP100. I have posted before and have not changed my mind: if I could only own one handgun, it would be a 4-inch .357 revolver, specifically a GP100.And if buying used, what brands/models would you recommend for low volume range shooter?
I agree with this. Out of all of my revolvers, only one (my GP100) seems to build any carbon ring shooting .38s. If I shoot .38s first and then shoot some .357s, the rounds can be hard to get flush in the cylinder.IMO the carbon ring left behing by .38 Special ammo shot in a .357 Magnum is blown WAY OUT of proportion. I shoot .38 specials in my M686 all the time and I have never had a problem with a carbon ring. If you do your normal cleaning after a range trip the point is moot.
I have several .38 Special and .357 Magnum revolvers and I like shooting them all. If you like the S&W M686 buy one and don't worry about shooting .38 Special ammo in it... I'll say it again, I have NEVER had a problem with a carbon ring.
Schwing,I agree with this. Out of all of my revolvers, only one (my GP100) seems to build any carbon ring shooting .38s. If I shoot .38s first and then shoot some .357s, the rounds can be hard to get flush in the cylinder.
Wow, thanks for the replies.
Revolver will only be used for range shooting.
Looks like 357 is the consensus with 4" favored by aging eyes.
Me too.Vodoun da Vinci said:I even have two sets of dies.
Along with S&W and Ruger, are there other brands that are worth considering?
I would be wary of discontinued guns. If my Python broke, there are few places to fix it.
Walkalong PMed me about Astra 960 "N"-frame 4" chambered for .38 Special.
Thanks. Great! Getting a real education here on 38/357 revolvers.
Reading some of your posts, I may have to get one of each.
So far I have the following. Would any of these be OK?
S&W:
38 - M10, M14, M15 or K frame 67
357 - L frame 686, K frame 19 or 66
Since I want to use the revolvers as training platform for reloading with roll crimps, 9mm revolvers with moonclips would not work. Thanks for the suggestion though.
You know about 18 years ago, there was an old revolver shooter who would come out to the local USPSA matches on occasion and shot with moonclips. Well, he didn't shoot as fast as Jerry Miculek but would absolutely kick the fastest open/limited shooters' butts and post fastest stage times and scores. He never missed! Headshots were his specialty and changed moonclips faster than we changed our mags! Unbelievable.
After seeing him shoot a stage, I offered him a soda and we became an instant teacher/student. Now I wish I had spent more time with him.