Which revolver is better for reloading, 38 Special or 357 Magnum?

[StrawHat]

If all you are contemplating is target shooting, go with a decent 38 Special. The Special does all I need in a 36 caliber revolver and does it well.

If you are considering a revolver for hunting, think about a larger caliber.

 

[FROGO207]

I have several in each caliber choice. That said they all have their pluses and minuses. One that I have for grins is a SS Ruger Blackhawk convertible, it will shoot the 9MM as well with a cylinder change. If you can swing it more than one revolver would be the way to go. But if only one a 357 IMHO, just more loading options and two types of brass can be used. YMMV

 

[RealGun]

I think 38 Special or 44 Special are closer to the experience of shooting those semi-autos (which I own too). I have quickly become a serious collector of 38 Specials along with my 357s. I would say the Smith & Wesson stainless Combat Commander, model 67, is the one I could easily recommend. It is 4", both a good carry and a good target gun. It has adjustable sights, which many if not most 38s do not have.

Loading 38s is a breeze, but if you load lead, go with the RCBS COWBOY die set. That is the only way I have been able to load good shooting ammo that doesn't look like a stuffed sausage and have swaged bullets with barrel leading. YMMV but that works for me. Forget Hornady Cowboy because they only give you a larger expander, per the set I have and set aside.

 

[Legionnaire]

I have thought about using 357 cases with 38 level loads to keep the cylinder cleaner but asked myself, why not just get a 38 Spl revolver?

If you are ONLY going to shoot 38 Spl cases, go with a 38 Spl revolver. My choice, however, was to buy a .357 and shoot only .357 cases, which I load across the whole spectrum from light plinking loads (using Trailboss powder) through the mid ranges (with Unique) to full power magnums (with 2400). Part of the beauty of a .357 revolver is its versatility. So you have answered your own question: if only shooting 38s, no reason to buy a .357.

What do you think? Should I get a 38 Spl or 357 Mag? How about between 4" and 6" barrel?

Can't tell you what you should do. In your situation, I would buy a .357. If for a dedicated range gun, I might go with a 6" barrel. However, again, my choice is based on my use ... and that would be a 4" barrel, which I find long enough to be range accurate, and short enough to be comfortable in a holster for field and (occasional) concealed carry.

And if buying used, what brands/models would you recommend for low volume range shooter?

I'd start looking at the various Ruger and S&W models. My choice was a 4-inch stainless Ruger GP100. I have posted before and have not changed my mind: if I could only own one handgun, it would be a 4-inch .357 revolver, specifically a GP100.

 

[Schwing]

IMO the carbon ring left behing by .38 Special ammo shot in a .357 Magnum is blown WAY OUT of proportion. I shoot .38 specials in my M686 all the time and I have never had a problem with a carbon ring. If you do your normal cleaning after a range trip the point is moot.

I have several .38 Special and .357 Magnum revolvers and I like shooting them all. If you like the S&W M686 buy one and don't worry about shooting .38 Special ammo in it... I'll say it again, I have NEVER had a problem with a carbon ring.

I agree with this. Out of all of my revolvers, only one (my GP100) seems to build any carbon ring shooting .38s. If I shoot .38s first and then shoot some .357s, the rounds can be hard to get flush in the cylinder.

Even though this gun HAS this problem pretty severely, it has never bothered me. I just either shoot only .38s in a session or shoot the .357s first. Even if I forget, I usually have a small cleaning kit in my bag and, even without the drill as RC suggests, it takes about 3 minutes to fix the problem.

 

[Jesse Heywood]

I have three 6" 357s, a 686, a Pietta SA and a Colt Trooper Mk III. Also a 4" Diamondback in 38 spl. I love shooting them all. The rear sight isn't that important to me, but the front sight makes the difference. Something I learned from the late Tom Knapp. But if you're used to shooting a semi-auto, don't forget the cylinder adds a couple inches to the distance between the sights.

One problem with owning guns of both calibers. If you only take a 38 to the range be sure you pack 38 ammo. It's part of getting old. I make sure to take two guns now. But when I buy another 38 that theory is shot full of holes.

 

[BullRunBear]

If just getting one revolver, I would go with the 357. It offers more versatility. Mine sees 95% 38 specials and, as others have said, never had a carbon build up problem in the cylinder. Unless having a light weight frame is critical, the extra weight of a heavier 357 helps with recoil. Barrel length and adjustable vs fixed sight depends on your preferences. Handle a few and see what works. Just the standard routine when deciding.

In addition to the S&Ws, check out the Ruger GP100. The ones I've handled have been impressive. If you don't require a double action, consider a Ruger Blackhawk.

As for reloading, 38 special brass, used or new, may be more affordable to a minor degree. Unless you are going for fire breathing 357 loads with jacketed bullets (sounds like you are not), the bullets and primers will be the same, and 2 powders will handle all your needs. Both are easy to reload and the expense is about the same.

Let us know what you end up with.

Jeff

 

[627PCFan]

Someone else mentioned a Model 10. If your only interested in 38 Specials that would be my ticket. I'm a load tinkerer but I find it harder to get accurate groups from 38 specials in a 357 chamber, and I assume its because of the longer jump to the lands. And the crud ring is an overblown issue. Just keep an belled case in your range bag to scrape the cylinders in a pinch.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

I agree with this. Out of all of my revolvers, only one (my GP100) seems to build any carbon ring shooting .38s. If I shoot .38s first and then shoot some .357s, the rounds can be hard to get flush in the cylinder.

Schwing,
If your GP100 gives you a problem you can always carry an empty .357 Magnum case with the inside of the case chamfered. (but not the outside) After you shoot the .38 Special ammo take that case and tap it into all 6 holes in the cylinder and the carbon ring will disappear.

 

[buck460XVR]

Wow, thanks for the replies.


Revolver will only be used for range shooting.

Looks like 357 is the consensus with 4" favored by aging eyes.

If the firearm is to only be used for range shooting, then the extra heft of a steel L-framed revolver will do the best job of absorbing recoil in even standard .38 special loads. Being a range gun only, I'd suggest a 6'' barrel, as they tend to be easier for the majority of folks to be accurate with, compared to a 4''. The extra 2'' of barrel is not significant weight(5 ozs) to a fully loaded 686. While some think it adds weight to the front of the gun and makes it not balanced, I disagree and find once you start pullin' the trigger, the 6'' tends to be more stable in your hands and is quicker and easier to get back on target. I have a 4'', a 5'' and 6'' 686 and the 6'' is the one most folks prefer at the range. At arm's length, the extra 2'' will give one a longer sight radius, but does not take the front sight outta focus any more than a 4''.

 

[Vodoun da Vinci]

Put me in the "get a .357" bunch. If it was one or the other, I'd tell you to get the .357 magnum. *But* there's always a "but" isn't there?

I'd shoot .357's in it...if yer dead set on a .38 only ammunition scenario I'd buy a .38 even though I shoot tons of .38's in my .357's. I don't like the extra carbon and junk. I much prefer to shoot .357's in my .357 revolvers and I hand load both calibers and optimize .38 loads and .357 separately.

I even have two sets of dies.

VooDoo

 

[LiveLife]

I even have two sets of dies.

Me too.

I have been reloading 38/357 rounds and shot them in family/friends' revolvers. Since I have both 38 and 357 dies, perhaps I should get both revolvers.

Along with S&W and Ruger, are there other brands that are worth considering?

Walkalong PMed me about Astra 960 "N"-frame 4" chambered for .38 Special.

 

[Reinz]

For me, as far as handling goes, depending upon the type of revolver; you just can't beat the balance of a 4" or 4.3/4" barrel.

It just feels right!

But then again, I love them all!

 

[Jim Watson]

I have not fired a .357 (or .44) magnum in years, a .38 Special is all the revolver I feel a need for. But 686 and GP .38 Specials are scarce on the market.

Years ago I made it to PPC Expert with .38s in a .357 cylinder (Python) so they can't be too bad.

I want adjustable sights for anything carried in a holster or range box; hog wallow fixed sights are for pockets... and cowboys.

I would be wary of discontinued guns. If my Python broke, there are few places to fix it.

My heart tells me a K Smith, M15 or M19, but the extra weight of the L Smith or Colt lets me shoot better.

 

[Reloadron]

Along with S&W and Ruger, are there other brands that are worth considering?

I like my Colt Trooper and without a doubt my Colt Python but you really don't need a Python. There are plenty of good revolvers out there but... I would heed what Jim Watson mentions:

I would be wary of discontinued guns. If my Python broke, there are few places to fix it.

You want a revolver that you can find service and support for just in case something goes awry.

Ron

 

[1066]

The sweetest revolver I've used for pure target shooting was a K frame Mod 14 with 6" barrel and target hammer and trigger. (.38 spec) Shooting a full 158gn wadcutter with 3.6 gns of Bullseye.

Both rounds are very straightforward to load with plenty of powder/bullet choice. (One set of dies does both)

 

[Walkalong]

Walkalong PMed me about Astra 960 "N"-frame 4" chambered for .38 Special.

Not quite an N Frame IMO. More like a Colt trooper size. It's a very nice revolver. A 4" .38 Spl would be sweet, but I'm broke.

Here is it's big brother in .357. It's not going anywhere.

 

[Ex]

It's all been covered in this thread by some very knowledgeble folks. I can only 2nd some things.

1. Go .357. Versatile, shoots both and carbon ring is not a problem that can't be easily dealt with.

2. Do consider the GP100 Ruger. Very nice trigger and built like a tank. I have two of them.
One is a blued 4" for the nightstand that I keep .38 spl in (close houses in neighborhood).
The other is a stainless 6" that's become one of my favorites. I use it for full boat .357 mags. Either can shoot either, that's just how I use them.

 

[Sunray]

Makes absolutely no difference which cartridge you buy. The dies do, a bit. Which barrel length out of which revolver doesn't make any difference either. Both cartridges are easy reloading.

 

[mdi]

"Better for reloading?" Six of one, half dozen of the other. The only difference is the powder charges. The .38 Special and .357 Magnum use much the same bullets, primers, and powders. So which is best for reloading? The one you like the most...

 

[303load]

I shoot 10-5 fixed sights and its accurate. Son shoots 357 rossi in 38 and 357 accurately. Which is better for reloading?Elementary....357 pistol.

 

[ljnowell]

Thanks. Great! Getting a real education here on 38/357 revolvers.



Reading some of your posts, I may have to get one of each.



So far I have the following. Would any of these be OK?



S&W:

38 - M10, M14, M15 or K frame 67

357 - L frame 686, K frame 19 or 66





Since I want to use the revolvers as training platform for reloading with roll crimps, 9mm revolvers with moonclips would not work. Thanks for the suggestion though.



You know about 18 years ago, there was an old revolver shooter who would come out to the local USPSA matches on occasion and shot with moonclips. Well, he didn't shoot as fast as Jerry Miculek but would absolutely kick the fastest open/limited shooters' butts and post fastest stage times and scores. He never missed! Headshots were his specialty and changed moonclips faster than we changed our mags! Unbelievable.



After seeing him shoot a stage, I offered him a soda and we became an instant teacher/student. Now I wish I had spent more time with him.

I personally think the M19 k frame is the best that S&W makes.

 

[dabuehl]

Looks like the consensus is 357. In my opinion, you will regret not buying a 357 down the road. It offers the best of both worlds. Spend the extra money and get a S&W. I have had both the S&W and Ruger. The Smith has a better trigger/hammer action whose mechanical geometry is best suited for a smooth trigger pull. I little polishing and light mod on the hammer spring and you'll be shooting tight groups. I carry a Ruger SP101 3" 357 for personal defense but for overall shooting I prefer the S&W. As far as loading 38 spl. vs 357 magnum most die sets are the same. 38's work great and the difference in cost has mostly to do with more expensive 357 brass when it comes to reloading.
Happy shooting, stay safe.

 

[oldpapps]

I hate these questions....

Up front. I disposed of all of my 'little' pistols in the early/mid 1980's.

Of all of my 'little' revolvers, it is a toss-up between two of them. One was a S&W Model 19, 4 inch blue. I did that action job (I was the Department armory). This was a very handy pistol. The only problem with it was the cylinder gap was so tight that after 2 many 250 round of that crap 38 Special stuff the city bought, the lead splash on the cylinder face began dragging. The other was a S&W Model 14 with a 4 inch Model 19 barrel. I didn't do the action job on this one but it was golden.

OK, one was a K frame .357 and the other a K frame .38. Both shot great. I would have to go with the .357 strength cylinder for long term.

I gave up of the .357 Mag long ago. It is or was .38 Special only for me. I could push jacketed, 110 grainers, fast enough to expand. And was happy with the limited results.

I pushed for larger caliber weapons and disposed of all of my 'little' guns. Some times I regrets getting rid of all of them. But not often. Functionally, the old 45-1911 is hands down better for my last ditch use and for aggressive prospects, a .44 is my choice.

I would go with a K frame .357. Oh, I am biased toward S&W for revolvers, double action anyway. Must be an hold over from 30 years of cop work. Boy did I hate the change over to glocks! Crap guns.....

 

[LiveLife]

I wasn't going to make a purchase until after retirement but ArchAngel PMed me this. Good candidate for 38Spl or should I keep looking?

At this point, I will probably buy both 38Spl and 357Mag.

Used S&W Police Model 10 38sp 4" Square Butt $299 (free shipping) - http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/411545790